What have you done to your rig today?

Started stripping the engine to clean up the outside.
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Kids, pay attention when installing your intake. There are helpful little dowels to make sure things are aligned. Get it wrong and you BREAK FAWKIN TABS and have intake leaks.
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Did the vent window delete today.

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Clubbs said:
Been dreading the fan shroud project, but tackled it today. With the big block in there and a 4 core rad there's hardly any room for the fan.

Tried a Volvo fan, but it was about 1.5" too thick to go between the rad and water pump.

Already have a stubby vicious fan situation going on so the fan to pulley bolts are tight to say the least.

Had the OG dodge shroud sort of in there and it worked until the motor mounts shredded and the fan flung pieces of it everywhere. So summit shroud kit it was.

A few hours of fitting, cutting, and aluminum welding and it's in there. Seems to do the trick - amazing since there's hardly anything left of it.

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If you decide to go electric, look at brushless/PWN fans. they are thinner, and can pull more air than a volvo/taurus setup.
 
Alright I need some help.
I cannot get this fitting to stop leaking on the fuel pressure side of my pump (where my finger is). It’s leaking on both sides of the 90 and the leak shows itself at the base of each female side. I’ve replaced the 90 and the hose end in hopes it’s that, but it still leaks.
My only other thought is that the fuel pressure regulator isn’t opening because it’s not seeing any vacuum so the pressure is building enough to blow pass the fitting

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Why is there thread sealant on the fitting?
 
What type/style of fitting is that 90 degree?
 
There are aircraft navy fittings and jic (Japanese standard) fittings, one is 60 degree one is 70 I think. Anyway, they may be 2different standards

Also over tightening could crack fittings, spec on a -6 an is 180 in lbs

www.onallcylinders.com

AN Fittings Torque Chart for Automotive Plumbing

This handy chart gives you all the torque specs for each AN fitting size that you'll commonly see in vehicle engine plumbing applications.
www.onallcylinders.com www.onallcylinders.com
 
*Army/Navy and Joint Industry Council

Both fittings are 37 degrees and I can confirm they will work together. An fittings are made to tighter tolerances though.

That being said, sometimes different brands just don't seal up together. I'd think if they're all Summit brand, they'd be fine, but obviously something isn't sealing up. If either of the seats have any scratches or wear on them, they'll leak. Also if the female nut doesn't tighten down all the way, it'll obviously leak.
 
I mean...it won't work loose if the threads are distorted, right? :D It's like free loc-tite! (I may be heavy handed sometimes)
 
Started chipping at some gremlins in the tow pig. Blower motor randomly died. Found the connector had gotten loose and burnt up. Trimmed all back and soldered it together and we got action. Windows last trip decided to work intermittently… through a bit of diag, seems the fuse box which is integrated is throwing a fit. Few fused jumper wires under the fuse box to replace the 1.5volts with keyed battery voltage and we’re in action. Now to rebuild battery cables which are corroding and causing charging headaches
 
When your trailer has been sitting almost two years, it's probably a good idea to check it over before loading up and heading out.

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Ok, so it's definitely a good idea 🤦‍♂️

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First one I looked at too, hoping it's not a sign of things to come.

Duane
 
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