who here dislikes dealerships?

ShyHiK5 said:
Point being when the vehicle was lifted did either you or the kit provide any provisions for altering the pinion angle? If not then the lift absolutely created extra stress on the ujoint by increasing the driveline angle.

there is absolutely nothing wrong with the drive line angle (due to the adjustable control arms), cus i pointed that out to them at the dealership when they tried to tell me that that is what caused the u-joint to get messed up. after i pointed this out they changed to the part about the mud and grit messing it up. and i do believe that if they cannot determine a def cause and document it then it needs to be covered under the warranty.

and i dont know about being able to design a perfect 4 link, but i do know if i had a beater i would give it a damn good try. i am currently at NCSU for engineering and i have the programs on my computer that allow me to design and build 3D models of just about anything i can think up. i mean this is what i am at state for is so i can get my minor in graphic communications and major in construction engineering and management.
 
i havent been through any real mud at uwharrie yet, just a bunch of dirty brown water. i know what real mud looks like, it is the only thing i have got stuck in so far and i hate it. thats why i havent been through any in 2 years now.
 
Stop your whinin Chris, Mud is awsome :fuck-you:

But yea, sounds like the dealership guys are out of excuses. The your jeep covered in mud thing is just them trying to come up with excuses, I know how you hardly go throu mud, if the dealership wants to say thats what caused it then why the heck havn't one of my ujoints on my Z71 failed :confused: becuase they almost always have a layer of mud on em all the time (sice I never wash my truck) and not only that I've submerged those things under water so many times and my truck has damn 170,xxx miles on it and I'm still Rockin the stock ujoints, whereas your jeep is waaaay newer than my truck.

As I said b4 dealerships are :gay:
 
Maybe you should read your copy of the warranty information that came with your vehicle. It should state what conditions the warranty covers and what it doesn't. For instance most new vehicles have a 7-10 year 100,000 mile emissions warranty. If you have a vehicle with 65,000 mi. and the catalytic convertor starts rattling they will replace it no questions asked. But if you roll up in the shop like a big dawg with a shinny NOS bottle strapped in the truck, you can for get it.

The dealer is privately owned and not affiliated with the factory. So the dealer fronts the labor and parts for the repair, then at the end of the month they turn it in to the factory for reimburstment. If the factory people audit the shop and they cannot prove defective quaility or workmanship they do not get paid.

I here Tweetsie is hiring...
 
mine had the normal 3 year/36,000 miles, plus the 7 year/70,000 extended warranty. i have had 3 transmission replaced, twice under the extended warranty, however one time was due to the fact that the dealership somehow forgot to feel it up with fluid, and the other time was simply due to the fact that i was hard on the gas and my tires were too big and if they wanted to be asses they would have not replaced it but they did because they had no proof as to what actually caused it to mess up. i also had the whole rear end replaced when the pinion seal went completely out on my way to the beach, and they even told me that it was more than likely the result of mud from offroad and what not but they still replaced it under the extended warranty. but the dealership that replaced that stuff under the extended warranty was not the same dealership that i just took my jeep too, so i guess what i have learned is to not take it back to that dealership ever again.
 
highrollintj said:
mine had the normal 3 year/36,000 miles, plus the 7 year/70,000 extended warranty. i have had 3 transmission replaced, twice under the extended warranty, however one time was due to the fact that the dealership somehow forgot to feel it up with fluid, and the other time was simply due to the fact that i was hard on the gas and my tires were too big and if they wanted to be asses they would have not replaced it but they did because they had no proof as to what actually caused it to mess up. i also had the whole rear end replaced when the pinion seal went completely out on my way to the beach, and they even told me that it was more than likely the result of mud from offroad and what not but they still replaced it under the extended warranty. but the dealership that replaced that stuff under the extended warranty was not the same dealership that i just took my jeep too, so i guess what i have learned is to not take it back to that dealership ever again.


I've been a technican for 24 years and wish I had a dollar for every whiner I ever had come in complaining about "warrenty" and "stealerships" with a modified vehicle. All I can say is deal with it and shut up with slamming the dealers and techs.

You got lucky getting what you got under warrenty with both a lifted and apparently "used" Heep. They decline one small thing and your ready to slam the crap out of them and "not take it back to that dealership again". I'm sure after working on your caked up junk, the techs glad it aint coming back too. Makes it kinda even.

I love people who buy late model stuff, lift it, beat it and then bitch about "they wont honor my warrenty". No better the the wanna be boy racers and truck BOMBer's who spend more on mods than the repairs needed, strip the mods when it blows then freak out when they get busted and their repairs are declined. In some cases the warrenty is totally voided on the entire vehicle. Just sack up, quit whiing about it and get the damn heep and move on. Expecting DC to repair a altered vehicle is bordering on fraud, whing about it is just classless.


edit, for the record I dont partically care for dealers either and aviod them for other reasons. Real ones like overpriced service and parts in most cases. Not to mention 90% of the ones I've delt with want to sell service rather than the needed repair. There are however, good honest stores out there. Flow Audi, MB Greensboro, Thompson Caddy are a few who some to mind.
 
i think you are missing the whole point about what i am arguing. the lift kit had nothing to do with the parts that failed. i have already had another mechanic look at the stuff to give me his honest opinion and he told me that the lift kit did not affect the angles of the drive line to the point that they would even cause the slightest failure. the o-ring that went out was understandable cus it is pretty much the same as my paint ball gun, o-rings go out in it all the time, but it is an easy fix. i dont have a problem with the mechanics who work at the dealerships, like i said in an earlier post that the guy who worked on my jeep is someone i know and i requested for him to work on my jeep. it is the dealership itself and the obvious lack of knowledge and understanding of how things operate and function.

actually now that i think of it i remember goin to the dealership and talking to a salesman about the new wranglers that are coming out and he informed me that they were gonna have new suspension and i asked him how so and he responded with saying the new wranglers would be equiped with independent suspension. he even backed his info up by asking another sales person who confirmed what he said. if the dealership doesnt even know what kind of product they are selling how are they gonna tell me that a lift kit caused something to malfunction and therefore not even be covered by the warranty.
 
highrollintj said:
if the dealership doesnt even know what kind of product they are selling how are they gonna tell me that a lift kit caused something to malfunction and therefore not even be covered by the warranty.


Simple you took it away from the stock condition. deal with and be your own warrenty provider. Plain and simple, thats the way it is. Just like my CTD, it stayed box stock unti the warrenty ran out, then it got BOMBed. If it blows, guess what, it all mine.

The dealer doesn't "decide" that the lift or whater caused a failure. The manufactor does, the dealer is simple a franchise. Plus, you cant honestly think a lift has "no effect" on a driveline angle. :shaking: Why do you think they sell SYE kits and tranfercase mount spacers?
 
Simple you took it away from the stock condition. deal with and be your own warrenty provider.

I think the issue is more that the dealership started trying to give him bs excuses about why things were wrong, if someone tried to tell me they were gonna charge me more for somthing I did and I know there wrong thats sure as heck gonna piss me off.
 
Ratman said:
:shaking: Why do you think they sell SYE kits and tranfercase mount spacers?

hold up a second, i guess i forgot to clarify earlier. the rear drive shaft is not the issue. it is the front drive shaft at the pinion.

has anyone heard of the "Magnuson Moss Warranty Act" . if not do a search on it and read about it.
 
OK I was going to let this die and stay out of it, but please do not tell me you are going to say that because a salesman did not know the suspension details that it is now obvious that the entire dealership is full of idiots.

I am sure not every mechanic in the shop could discuss different closing techniques and ways to overcome objections, but that doesnt mean they dont know cars.

Different people have different specializations. Get used to it in life and in business not everyone knows everything aout everyone elses roles in an organization.

Sales folks do not have to be expert mechanics and often the best know very little mechanically about cars, but they know how to deal with people, sure you got a yahoo that was trying to build interest about something he knew little about, but that has ZERO to do with the service department.

You may want to go back and fully read Magnusson V Moss's ruling there are specific outs in there for parts directly effected by non OEM alterations or alterations that are not approved by the OEM.

I think the part that you are missing, is that you and the manufacturer had an agreement, you feel as though they are not upholding their end, their point of view is that you have already failed to uphold yours by altering the vehicle...

They dont have to prove that your modification DID cause the failure they only have to prove that it COULD cause the failure. Because if they warranty yours as a matter of practice then BY LAW they should warranty every vehicle with the same mods. Auto manufacturers spend a good deal of time testing and engineering and developing components to work within a given set of parameters, they do not have the resources, nor do I think it would be prudent to require them, to test every possible aftermarket alteration you could do to a vehicle and see what the life cycle would be.

As it applies to this specific incident, there is no doubt that the lift kit increased the drive line angle unless you altered your front axles pinion angle relative to the TC. Now it CAN NOT BE ARGUED that an increase bind on a ujoint will not shoren its life. As a nature of its very design the increased bind force would have an inversly proportional and direct correlation with life span. It may vary from a matter of 1 or 2 revolutions (in a multi million revolution life span) to reducing th lufe span by 90% depending on the severity of the angle but it will definitely have an effect. The dealership is done RIGHT THERE they have nothing more to prove.

In my opinion this entire thread points directly to your immaturity, regardless of age, and your unwillingness to accept responsibility for your actions. You modified a vehicle, used (and probably abused) it and broke something now you wanna cry because someone else wont pay for it? YOU PLAY YOU PAY, its an old addage that hits real close to home here. I think the only mistake here was in the dealership being courteous and offering an explanation instead of laughing in your face that you expected them to pay for it. And thats the perspective of a service manager (in a non automotive field) for the past 6 years.:beer:
 
I gotta put in my .02 here, as a (former dealer tech). If any of you dealer techs want to make real money, get the hell away from domestic vehicles! Go with a import luxury vehicle. BMW, Mercedes, Lexus. The working conditions are much better, the clientele has extra money. (They in most cases know how to budget their money or they wouldn't be driving a luxury vehicle), and they are tons easier to work on and the factory support is waaay better for the techs. Seen a guy at BMW go from 30 to 80k in 5 years. Granted, he's the exception not the rule, but I made pretty damn good money for turning wrenches. Had a guy there that was a Chevy tech at Bobby Murray and he was absolutely amazed at how much better BMW payed for everything than GM. Said he makes 5x more money and doesn't work near as hard. Couldn't beleive how much thought went into building the BMW to be worked on vs. no thought at all on the GM products. After working on just a few domestic vehicles (Mostly dodge and ford) I'd never buy one or work for their dealers.

As for the Stealership thing, hey, the owner's gotta line his pockets to keep up with the Jones. The other thing I've noticed is that factory parts work and fit waay better than most aftermarket parts.
 
So lemme ask ya this.. what's the static angle on that u-joint that failed?
 
My experience with dealerships have not been all pleasant ones. Anyone though, that expects warranty on anything that has been changed from factory specs, are living in a fantasy world. As someone said above, leave it stock until the warranty is gone. But a U-joint? I expect them to go bad, to break, to fail. I carry extras.
I have often refered to them as stealerships for another reason. In my opinion the just charge too much for parts. I needed lift gate shocks for a Bronco II, they wanted IIRC $160 for the pair. I got them somewhere else for $40. Still working after 3 years. I spicer joint, $40, other places for that joint was $24 I could go on and on on that part.
Bought a new 89 Ford F-150 4wd with a 300 6, threw a rod at 16K, Service Mgr looks at me and says oil hadn't been changed and I was dogging it. Well it had been changed every 3K, and had never seen over 4K on the tach. He was an ass for sure, but, they did replace the engine!
As far as tech, yeah they have to stay up on it all. Me I prefer the Old metal, almost idiot proof.
I for one won't ever buy another new ride. It just plain looses to much value as soon as you drive it off the lot.
 
highrollintj said:
hold up a second, i guess i forgot to clarify earlier. the rear drive shaft is not the issue. it is the front drive shaft at the pinion.
has anyone heard of the "Magnuson Moss Warranty Act" . if not do a search on it and read about it.

No shit but if the angles did not change at all you you need those things? No. Jesus your dense. :shaking: Yeah I know about MM. Guess what, you modified your truck, you had a failure, they DO not have to prove your failure wasn't because of your mods, only IT MIGHT have been the cause. The burden of proving IT DID not cause the failure falls on you. Do you know the engineered limit angles designed into the failed u-joint of yours? How about the engineered in optimun run angles?

Now, heres is a little tidbit you might have overlooked. Larger tires have higher rolling resistense, therefore put more stress on driveline parts. That u-joint might have failed due to water entry combined with larger tires and steeper driveline angles.
 
ShyHiK5 said:
In my opinion this entire thread points directly to your immaturity, regardless of age, and your unwillingness to accept responsibility for your actions. You modified a vehicle, used (and probably abused) it and broke something now you wanna cry because someone else wont pay for it? YOU PLAY YOU PAY, its an old addage that hits real close to home here. I think the only mistake here was in the dealership being courteous and offering an explanation instead of laughing in your face that you expected them to pay for it. And thats the perspective of a service manager (in a non automotive field) for the past 6 years.:beer:

in my opinion i think you have issues. the fact that if my jeep was stock and i brought it into the dealership and my u-joint was bad and i had taken it off road would they or would they not replace it. i mean what are they doing with the jeeps in the commercials on tv? i have a friend that blew his out from off roading and they replaced it under warranty and he told them it broke when he was off road. now after i looked at the angle and then confronted them about what they thought they quickly changed there opinion to that it was caused by mud (off roading). so my arguement is if they will replace it on a stock one why wont the replace it on mine if the lift is no longer the issue?
 
Ratman said:
No shit but if the angles did not change at all you you need those things? No. Jesus your dense. :shaking:

so you are telling me that a sye for the rear drive shaft is gonna fix the front drive shaft angles? :shaking:
 
you are such and assclown. maybe if you ever get the chance to work on vehicles for a living you will realize why it is the way it is
 
well maybe if i drove a chevy i would be a little more experienced at having to fix things
 
highrollintj said:
well maybe if i drove a chevy i would be a little more experienced at having to fix things
Actually, you'd be better at bending your arm in 3-4 places at the same time while standing on your head under the front seat to change a spark plug.:D
 
What is the static angle on that u-joint?
 
highrollintj said:
so you are telling me that a sye for the rear drive shaft is gonna fix the front drive shaft angles? :shaking:


Once again, dense. If the angle changes enough fr the rear to have issues, you damn well know the front is going to have similar issues. The rear is addressed because its loaded at all times whereas the front is only loaded when 4wd is enguaged.
 
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