Well I just traded my 1990 Daihatsu Rocky for what I think is a 1990 YJ (not 100% sure of the year, will figure out tomorrow) with the 4.2L and TF999. Body is in good shape, Frame is in good shape, only issues seen so far are the brakes are in need of bleeding and the headlights flicker off, but cut on if you turn the switch off and on again. Lots of ideas floating around in my head but ultimately want a fun weekend warrior that is still a good DD. Been following builds on here for a while and thought I'd finally start my own! Look forward to hearing from everyone!
YJ Krawler
- Thread starter YJKrawlin
- Start date
So, after almost two weeks, have and update. Went through everything and the YJ is an 88, originally was a manual, but somebody switched out the trans at some point and just cut the pedal with a sawzall. After replacing, rotors, pads, springs in rear drums, pass. caliper, driver ball joints and rear wheel cylinders. Managed to chase out the headlight flicker and get it all running and stopping like it should. Downgraded from the 33's on it to the 31's I had laying around. Also noticed it has a 3 inch body lift on it. Hopefully that will go soon after I replace the springs with stock or 1". Ultimate plan right now is to run somewhere between 33s and 35s on SOA with either an 8.8 or Ford 9 and 44. But all that depends on everything else and how it all comes together and what money looks like, considering this will be a DD. Also got the chance to go into the diffs and looks like the rear gears were replaced recently which is kinda nice.
As she now sits.
As she now sits.
Well, after 3 years, I am back to update this thread. It has been a while and alot has happened with the jeep. I have completely gotten rid of the Dana 30/35 and replaced them with dana 44s front and rear out of a 1991 grand wagoneer. I also have front wagoneer bastard packs front and rear netting about 2 inches of lift, spring under. The ultimate goal is to run 35s, but as it sits I am on 33s. I geared the axles to 4.11 and put a tru trac in the front and an eaton e-locker in the rear. Went through all the axle with new hardware wherever it was needed.
I decided to remove the fenders because I like the look and wanted more tire movement, I still need to cut out the rear fenders a hair to keep the tires out of them. I wanted to get away from the weird, stud style shock and get longer travel in the front so I cut off the factory towers and threw on some towers from an F350. Moving on to the Transmission and Transfer case. I had 3.07 gears and a TF999, the gears eventually got the better of the transmission and the clutches disintegrated. Considering the jeep had a manual in it originally and that's what I prefer I decided to go back with a Manual Transmission. But knowing I wanted this to be capable offroad I went with an NP435 out of a 79 F-250, and got an adapter from Tom's Bronco Parts to put a Bronco t-Shift Dana 20 in behind the NP435. I fabbed a bracket to make the factory bronco crossmember work in my wider frame and after 6 months, she's still holding.
I got driveshafts made locally with CV joints front and rear and then moved on to hill assist, so I wouldn't have to 3 pedal it offroad. I got a Handbrake and bracket out of a ZJ Grand Cherokee, shortened the bracket and made it work with my Grand Wagoneer Brake cables. I've redesigned the dash a few times since I last posted and also painted it tan with spray cans, because the paints gonna get scratched up anyways. I managed to get a free top that was missing windows out of a cj7 and since the hatch fiberglass was ripped out and it wasn't going to ever go back to how it was since I had another top, I cut this one in half to make a sort of half cab/hard bikini top.
All in all, it's been a great experience and I have learned alot, but I know I still have a while to go and there's still projects I want to do on my jeep.
I got driveshafts made locally with CV joints front and rear and then moved on to hill assist, so I wouldn't have to 3 pedal it offroad. I got a Handbrake and bracket out of a ZJ Grand Cherokee, shortened the bracket and made it work with my Grand Wagoneer Brake cables. I've redesigned the dash a few times since I last posted and also painted it tan with spray cans, because the paints gonna get scratched up anyways. I managed to get a free top that was missing windows out of a cj7 and since the hatch fiberglass was ripped out and it wasn't going to ever go back to how it was since I had another top, I cut this one in half to make a sort of half cab/hard bikini top.
All in all, it's been a great experience and I have learned alot, but I know I still have a while to go and there's still projects I want to do on my jeep.
XJsavage
CounterCulture
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2009
- Location
- Lyle's Ford SC
This turned to be a sweet progression! The handbreak setup definitely has my attention. More details on that if you please, sir.
I will try to find the energy to crawl under it today and take some pictures. But the gist of it is: ZJ Handbrake and cable from inside of the cab. ZJ Adjuster bracket, shortened 1-2 inches, (less is more) welded back up. Mounted under the "bed" of my YJ. My cables loop back a little to reach it, I just stuffed them up above my gas tank. Then I adjusted them. The cable from the handbrake to the adjsuter runs through the rear bulkhead between the "cab" and the "bed." I'll add photos when I get a chance.
Been a while since I've posted but the yj has taken on a big transformation. Started with swapping in a 4.8 from a Tahoe and mating it to the np435 and Dana 20. Then decided the Dana 44s with stock shafts probably weren't gonna hold up to the new power with 35s so ended up going with 1 tons from an 04 f350. Needed new wheels and tires and found a killer deal on some 40" milestar Patagonia mts. In the process of outboarding the front springs I stretched the jeep about 5 or 6 inches. The rear is stretched about 3.5 inches between offset perches and wagoneer springs. Switching to an astro steering box and ram2500 master cylinder. I'll be recessing a fuel cell in the bed and building a custom filler neck/cover for it so I still have a metal break between me and the fuel system and I dont lose too much storage. Lots of work to finish it but it's getting there. Going for low but effective, able to daily drive and still perform well on the trail. It's a learning process though. @XJsavage the XJ handbrake didnt work too great with my Dana 44s, i dont know if that was because of the bracket being too short or if it was because the brakes weren't too great. Gonna try to replace the bracket and try again with the sterling 10.5 and see how it works with the discs all around.
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XJsavage
CounterCulture
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2009
- Location
- Lyle's Ford SC
I can tell you one thing for certain, the drivetrain combo you have right now is freaking kick ass! A manual behind an LS is a blast to drive. I love the crap out of mine. 37s and 3.73s here.
Hollar if you need any help. The finished product is WELL worth it.
Hollar if you need any help. The finished product is WELL worth it.
Wrenched a little today and lowered the rear shackle mounting point to try to achieve an even height and keep things low. The shackle is now too far back so gonna cut it off tomorrow and slide it forward. Have some longer shackles coming to make up any loss height and hopefully the spring will move better with a little more angle in the shackle. This is about where ride height should be. 30" to the bottom of the tub 24 3/4" to the bottom of the frame. Not the greatest welder but enjoying the practice this project is giving me.
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What route did you go for your clutch? I'm running Novak hydraulic clutch going to an sm465 bellhousing in front of the np435, using the stock yj master cylinder and feel like the clutch is extremely stiff. Its moving but doesnt appear to want to. Any tips?I can tell you one thing for certain, the drivetrain combo you have right now is freaking kick ass! A manual behind an LS is a blast to drive. I love the crap out of mine. 37s and 3.73s here.
Hollar if you need any help. The finished product is WELL worth it.
XJsavage
CounterCulture
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2009
- Location
- Lyle's Ford SC
I went with a billet aluminum AA bell, McLeod weighted flywheel, N1714 Ford throwout and everything else is Centerforce. I can get whatever part #s you need. Also used the CJ Iron Duke master and slave with NiCop hard line. Stock YJ pedal. Pedal is adjusted for clutch engagement near the top for ability to shift quickly. Works incredibly well but it cost a pretty penny to put it all together.
Sounds painful already haha
XJsavage
CounterCulture
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2009
- Location
- Lyle's Ford SC
With your current setup, without seeing it, I'm afraid I couldn't be much help.
But...double check the angle of your throwout arm. Seems like it may be binding somehow.
77GreenMachine
Phillip Talton
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2010
- Location
- Trinity, NC
Remove the o ring from the proportioning valve, I just went down this road and tried not removing it after my Master Cylinder swap. Didn’t work, once I removed that o ring I got a good firm pedal.
Curious to see how your fuel cell works out, as I’ve thought of doing the same to get a little bit of space for a tool bag or something back there.
Curious to see how your fuel cell works out, as I’ve thought of doing the same to get a little bit of space for a tool bag or something back there.
This is what gave me the idea, granted it's in a tj, but same concept. I was planning on doing that. Found a thread on pirate and everyone said that was a must with 4 wheel discs and dual pistons up front. Interested to see how difficult adapting to 2500 master cylinder is going to be.
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77GreenMachine
Phillip Talton
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2010
- Location
- Trinity, NC
I used an 86’ E350 MC and had to woller the holes out with a drill bit to match up to the booster. That was very easy. Also had to adjust the push rod on the booster a little.
Also, when you remove the O-Ring, bleed the Prop valve. It works just like a caliper, loosen that bolt and it will bleed just like a bleeder. However if you’re starting with a dry system all together, just bleed to Master and then let it all gravity feed and then do a normal bleed and you’ll be good.
Also, when you remove the O-Ring, bleed the Prop valve. It works just like a caliper, loosen that bolt and it will bleed just like a bleeder. However if you’re starting with a dry system all together, just bleed to Master and then let it all gravity feed and then do a normal bleed and you’ll be good.
I was considering going that route because of heard about people running the e350 mc, but couldn't find definitive information about what to use or what needed to be done. Just people saying it worked for them with no other info. I just grabbed an 02 2500 mc and got some fittings that should make it all work together so fingers crossed after I finish the brakes it all works properly. My whole system is empty. What needs to be done to bleed the prop valve?
77GreenMachine
Phillip Talton
- Joined
- Mar 30, 2010
- Location
- Trinity, NC
If you remove the O ring before you ever fill and install the MC you should not need to.
But just for info: it’s the large hex head fitting with a rubber cap on the front of the PV. Remove rubber cap, have someone pump the brakes up tight and hold the pedal, hold the body of the PV tight with channel locks or a 19mm wrench. I don’t remeber the hex fitting size, but loosen it till fluid comes out just like you would a caliper while the person is pushing on the pedal.
Again in your situation, I’d just remove the ring, install the MC, and let the whole system gravity bleed. Then a quick normal bleed and you’ll be fine.
But just for info: it’s the large hex head fitting with a rubber cap on the front of the PV. Remove rubber cap, have someone pump the brakes up tight and hold the pedal, hold the body of the PV tight with channel locks or a 19mm wrench. I don’t remeber the hex fitting size, but loosen it till fluid comes out just like you would a caliper while the person is pushing on the pedal.
Again in your situation, I’d just remove the ring, install the MC, and let the whole system gravity bleed. Then a quick normal bleed and you’ll be fine.
Hoping to start the jeep this weekend and finished everything up to send to the exhaust shop next week. Finished recessing the fuel cell, building a skid for it. Narrowed the wheelbase a little to allow clearance of the rear diff. Set pinion angle and order my driveshafts. Had to cut some of the floor to allow the transfer case to clear the tub and the driveshaft to flex properly. Finishing fuel lines tomorrow and hoping to bleed the brakes if I can get an extra set of hands. Got an astro box from a seller here and a pitman arm from wfo to run a 7/8s heim for the steering. Installed my ram2500 master cylinder and that seems to be good just trying to work out how tight is tight enough on the fittings so I don't destroy my proportioning valve. If anyone wants to see anything let me know I can try to take some pictures tomorrow. My welds aren't the greatest but they'll hold. Looking into taking a welding course this year and picking up a 220 mig. Most of my work has been done with a 110 mig or 220 stick welder depending on the metal being worked on.
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Well she's running! But not shifting. Thought it may be a shift fork issue. Which was part of the problem but also had an issue with the clutch not disengaging. After talking to Novak I may have the wrong release bearing and/or my clutch may have ended up installed backwards... yay... so looks like I may be pulling my trans this weekend. Anybody in the greenville/Bethel nc area want to lend a hand? Haha
Got the transmission figured out. The new bearing retainer didnt come witha race. Replaced that and she's back to normal. I picked up another np435 and I'm going to rebuild it as a spare. Dropped the jeep at the exhaust shop. Once I get it back I will cover the holes I had to cut in the floor and build the trans and fuel cell cover. I just finished building the wiring for the dash. But I need to figure out what I want to do for the custom dash. Buttoning stuff up now but its finally getting there.
Video of the first start.
Video of the first start.
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01tj
#notoffroadsc
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2008
- Location
- Greenwood Sc
Are those the Black Label Milestars?
I don't think so. Those are the 40x13.50r17 NHS. These are just 40x13.50r17lt. I picked them up for 243 a piece on an Amazon sale.
Just got the jeep back from the Exhaust shop, she sounds great. Everything is tucked up high above the frame rails and they were able to package dual pipes all the way down the passenger side, dumping toward the side just before the rear axle. Mckeel's Tire in Snowhill, NC did the work if anybody is looking for some custom exhaust work to be done, pricing seemed pretty fair too. Have it at my apartment now as I button things up, tightening up the suspension, getting the dash into it and finish up the main wiring harness for stuff like lights and a horn, running the fuel cell vent line. Hoping to get it reinspected in another week or so when i get some trip tags. Drove it around my parking lot and need to trim the rear fenders bad, all in due time though.
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@XJsavage you said you are running 37s and 3.73 behind an LSx engine? how do you feel the power is when just driving around? I know in 3rd gear and base idle mine wants to fly but starting out in 2nd like I usually would it feels like it wants to stall if i don't carry the rpms a little before letting off of the clutch.