YJ Krawler

Here's a pic of the exhaust work and of where she sits for now. Ready to put some miles on the build.
 

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YJKrawlin said:
@XJsavage you said you are running 37s and 3.73 behind an LSx engine? how do you feel the power is when just driving around? I know in 3rd gear and base idle mine wants to fly but starting out in 2nd like I usually would it feels like it wants to stall if i don't carry the rpms a little before letting off of the clutch.
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It's undergeared, but for 37s I've gotten used to it. 4.56 is what I've half-ass calculated I need. I never plan on running larger than a 39, but always 35-37 for highway. I don't want to go so low that I can't cruise 70 for hundreds of miles hovering at sub-2500 RPM.
Mine has enough power that for right now it's tolerable and actually comfortable on/off road. If I get the itch to feel a touch more power, as redneck as it sounds, I'd rather just give it more power. It's very easy to do with a 5.3.
 
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Gotcha. I've been struggling to figure out what's the proper gearing for 40s and until it's on the road and cruising I wont have an idea of how steep to go. The guy who did my exhaust does alot of tuning on ls engines and figured 3.73 or 4.11 would be good for cruising but he doesn't mess with stuff on this size tires yet.
 
Went for a cruise around the block today. Brakes are really lacking pressure. Using a ram 2500 mc and adjusted the pushrod out thinking maybe it was in too far after shortening it. Brakes got worse. I have plenty of stopping power but no pressure on the pedal and it wont lock them up. Seems od . Also seeing an issue with the engine breaking up a bit in higher rpms. Mainly just before I shift. Riding in 3rd needing a bit more speed before 4th and I give it a bit of gas and it chokes up. Haven't pulled codes yet but seemed pretty odd possibly an issue with vs not being hooked up in a 4 speed trans? Not sure
 
That sounds strikingly similar to a mass airflow sensor. pull it off and double-check you have at least three diodes still connected inside the mass airflow sensor. You can see them from the upstream side of the sensor itself. me personally I have given up on the ram 2500 master cylinder; went back with the stock YJ with a lot better results.
 
XJsavage said:
That sounds strikingly similar to a mass airflow sensor. pull it off and double-check you have at least three diodes still connected inside the mass airflow sensor. You can see them from the upstream side of the sensor itself. me personally I have given up on the ram 2500 master cylinder; went back with the stock YJ with a lot better results.
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Had someone reccomend a Durango mc so I figure I can give it a shot. Worst case I'm pretty sure I have my factory mc lying around somewhere. I'll check the maf tomorrow. Also gonna check out everything on a scanner when I get a chance.
 
XJsavage said:
That sounds strikingly similar to a mass airflow sensor. pull it off and double-check you have at least three diodes still connected inside the mass airflow sensor. You can see them from the upstream side of the sensor itself. me personally I have given up on the ram 2500 master cylinder; went back with the stock YJ with a lot better results.
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Do you have any major issues with using the factory mc? I heard people were just having major issues trying to stop big tires.
 
YJKrawlin said:
Do you have any major issues with using the factory mc? I heard people were just having major issues trying to stop big tires.
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If I was running an automatic I would be more inclined to try another upgraded one. Since I have a manual and can you use the manual for engine braking which is how it's intended to be used, as long as I can stop in the last 15 mph of rolling I'm pretty much good. but really it's not bad I prefer to not be able to lock up tires under braking. Skidding tires is a lack of control.
 
I've adjust my pushrod out more. The pedal is firm when the engine is off and loses pressure until actuation when the engine is on. If I cut the engine on it stops, still doesn't lock up. But it stops and seems to stop abruptly almost like when you move from an older truck to a new car and almost give yourself a concussion. If the booster was bad. The pedal would be hard the whole way down wouldn't it?
 
if the booster was bad, the pedal would be hard just like when it is off. if you have soft pedal and then it gets hard at the bottom and stops suddenly, i would guess there is too much throw in the pedal. basically like it isnt push on the master until right at the end. I could be wrong though.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
if the booster was bad, the pedal would be hard just like when it is off. if you have soft pedal and then it gets hard at the bottom and stops suddenly, i would guess there is too much throw in the pedal. basically like it isnt push on the master until right at the end. I could be wrong though.
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That's what I'm thinking. When the jeep is off I have consistent pressure throughout the stroke until I hit a hard point where the brakes are activating. As soon as the jeep cranks up the consistent pressure disappears for a slightly less pressure before I hit the hard point in the brakes. It stops just feels odd being so inconsistent.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
I am thinking that the light pressure area of the stroke could be air in the system. The change in force needed, indicates that the booster is effecting that range also...
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I always figured air in the system would make it feel spongy. It doesn't feel spongy at all just like theres some resistance but not what it should be then a wall that is the brakes. Should be consistently increasing pressure until I'm at full braking power, shouldn't it? I guess I can try to pump up the brakes some and get someone to bleed it. Worth a try at this point
 
I'll tell you what I've told many,any people with the same issue: 1986 E350 master cylinder, remove prop valve oring, bleed brakes, done.
It's really that easy and it's a proven recipe for a firm pedal and great feel
 
Jody Treadway said:
I'll tell you what I've told many,any people with the same issue: 1986 E350 master cylinder, remove prop valve oring, bleed brakes, done.
It's really that easy and it's a proven recipe for a firm pedal and great feel
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Is there any modifications needed to be done to the mc? Will that setup work well with discs on all 4 corners? I already have the o ring removed from the prop valve.
 
Have you got any more pictures of the Jeep?
 
XJsavage said:
Have you got any more pictures of the Jeep?
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Haven't taken any since I unloaded it off the trailer on Sunday. Anything in particular you wanted to see? I can take a few pictures tomorrow.
 
YJKrawlin said:
Is there any modifications needed to be done to the mc? Will that setup work well with discs on all 4 corners? I already have the o ring removed from the prop valve.
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All you have to do is barely egg out the mounting holes on the master. Works perfectly with 4 wheel discs.
You will need an adapter as the ports are 3/16" vs the OEM 1/8". That's it. It flat out works
 
Jody Treadway said:
All you have to do is barely egg out the mounting holes on the master. Works perfectly with 4 wheel discs.
You will need an adapter as the ports are 3/16" vs the OEM 1/8". That's it. It flat out works
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I'll definitely look into it. Though I do took forward to reflaring another set of lines, I definitely want to stop.
 
Tomorrow I'm going to get the trip permit to try to get some miles on all the swap stuff and tweak the brake master cylinder a little more. Thinking maybe if it was that far out of alignment with the pushrod maybe my bench bleeding on the jeep really didn't do anything and I have a ton of air in the mc. Also gotta throw the dash back together replace some lights and get a functioning horn for inspection purposes. Anybody with a portable welder want to come out and help me setup shock towers haha.
 
77GreenMachine said:
I used an 86’ E350 MC and had to woller the holes out with a drill bit to match up to the booster. That was very easy. Also had to adjust the push rod on the booster a little.
Also, when you remove the O-Ring, bleed the Prop valve. It works just like a caliper, loosen that bolt and it will bleed just like a bleeder. However if you’re starting with a dry system all together, just bleed to Master and then let it all gravity feed and then do a normal bleed and you’ll be good.
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You wouldn't happen to have any pictures of how far your adjuster had to be out on the e350 master do you? Or possibly what size lines you needed? If I'm gonna go that route I'm just gonna say screw it and run to the hydraulic hose guy and have him make my 2 lines from the mc to the prop valve.
 
@YJKrawlin i don’t, I had to thread the push rod out about 4-5 turns if I remember right.

As for the lines, I had no luck on adaptors at the let’s store. So I took my stock MC and the E350 MC to a hydraulic hose place and told him exactly what I was trying to do, and he made me 2 new lines from the new MC to the PV and only charged like $25. I had to remove the O-ring from the PV.
 
77GreenMachine said:
@YJKrawlin i don’t, I had to thread the push rod out about 4-5 turns if I remember right.

As for the lines, I had no luck on adaptors at the let’s store. So I took my stock MC and the E350 MC to a hydraulic hose place and told him exactly what I was trying to do, and he made me 2 new lines from the new MC to the PV and only charged like $25. I had to remove the O-ring from the PV.
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Sounds good and probably will be what I end up doing If this last attempt at bleeding doesn't work out. $50 for another mc and lines is better than another $100 down the drain for the 2500 mc
 
77GreenMachine said:
@YJKrawlin i don’t, I had to thread the push rod out about 4-5 turns if I remember right.

As for the lines, I had no luck on adaptors at the let’s store. So I took my stock MC and the E350 MC to a hydraulic hose place and told him exactly what I was trying to do, and he made me 2 new lines from the new MC to the PV and only charged like $25. I had to remove the O-ring from the PV.
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Was there a specific point you knew it was right? Such as the rod touching the plunger just before you bolted it in applying a slight amount of pressure?
 
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