YJ Krawler

Also, I replaced all my dash lights with white 194 wedge LED lights. Nice little $10 upgrade from Amazon.

YITAMOTOR 20 Pack White T10 168 194 Wedge LED Light Bulbs, W5W 2825 158 192 175 162 Replacement LED Interior Lights Bulb for Trucks Car License Plate/Map/Dome/Trunk/Light Bulb, 10-SMD, 12v https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YZR785O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2g25CbFA60QD9
 
77GreenMachine said:
Also, I replaced all my dash lights with white 194 wedge LED lights. Nice little $10 upgrade from Amazon.

YITAMOTOR 20 Pack White T10 168 194 Wedge LED Light Bulbs, W5W 2825 158 192 175 162 Replacement LED Interior Lights Bulb for Trucks Car License Plate/Map/Dome/Trunk/Light Bulb, 10-SMD, 12v https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YZR785O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2g25CbFA60QD9
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Yeah I'm running the led clear lens housings and left h7 bulbs in mine with a hella relay harness. Got tired of squinting with the high beams on Haha. No light issues anymore.
 
YJKrawlin said:
Was there a specific point you knew it was right? Such as the rod touching the plunger just before you bolted it in applying a slight amount of pressure?
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There is a tool to measure it but I don’t have it, so I kept adjusting it till there wasn’t any play in the pedal. I was pushing with my had feeling for that point where it was just make connection with the MC.

For the record, my brake pedal still doesn’t feel real firm like most people are used to, it still has some travel. But it’s applying brake within a short distance of travel and will lock the wheels up if I push on it. They are 100% better than what I had. Hope that makes sense. I have really good brakes now at half brake pedal.
 
YJKrawlin said:
Yeah I'm running the led clear lens housings and left h7 bulbs in mine with a hella relay harness. Got tired of squinting with the high beams on Haha. No light issues anymore.
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Link I posted is for interior dash lights for your gauges. No more squinting at the dash lol.

They will replace the bulb is aftermarket gauges too!
 
77GreenMachine said:
Link I posted is for interior dash lights for your gauges. No more squinting at the dash lol.

They will replace the bulb is aftermarket gauges too!
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I dont have a factory dash I custom made mine with cj speedo and mechanical gauges( gotta work on tying them into the ls) but I probably could use some new ones for my dash at some point. Just hasn't been high on the priority list.
 
Helped a buddy swap out his tie rod on his jk for a barnes aluminum one and installed the e350 master cylinder today after having some lines made. Brakes feel about 80% better. Still not quite where I want it but I think some more adjustment is needed. Braking force and pressure feels alot more consistent though. I had to egg out the mounting holes and sand down the outside of the mounting ears to get it installed. If anybody in the eastern nc area needs custom hoses. Phillip's hoses in Greenville has always done good by me. I got the e350 master cylinder and hoses made for less than what the ram2500 master cylinder cost me.
 

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I'm not sure my np435 likes the 4.8s power Haha. Making some grumpy noises when driving it. I feel like I have alot of bump steer right now but also driving without any shocks on the jeep so that might have something to do with it as well. Went for a cruise today and she seems to be holding speed well and I'm not having the breaking up issue i had before no idea what it is.
 
YJKrawlin said:
I'm not sure my np435 likes the 4.8s power Haha. Making some grumpy noises when driving it. I feel like I have alot of bump steer right now but also driving without any shocks on the jeep so that might have something to do with it as well. Went for a cruise today and she seems to be holding speed well and I'm not having the breaking up issue i had before no idea what it is.
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The np435 used to handle big block power with no problem whatsoever. You can't break it.
 
XJsavage said:
The np435 used to handle big block power with no problem whatsoever. You can't break it.
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That's what I figure. I also have another one I need to start on rebuilding to replace this one that has some pretty worn gears. But for now this will do fine.
 
Gotta finish up the cut for the rear tires. Get the shock mounts on and install a horn then find someone to inspect it. Checked out the clearance after the cut and looks good so far might stretch the rear cut a little further. Got a video I can post later of how slow the jeep is in low range reverse. Got the coolant system bled finally so the jeep runs a cool 188-195 at idle in the sun without a fan shroud.
 

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Here's the video I took checking the low range in reverse and seeing how the engine reacted to moving 40s with no throttle. Seemed ti do pretty good. I did it in 1st as well but it's much noisier until I replace my trans. So it doesn't make for a watchable video.
 
Have you considered just rebuilding the one you have? For the price of a good rebuild kit you can easily buy two 435 transmissions from a junkyard, but here's a kit I was looking at for mine.
USA Standard Gear ZMBK127WS
Mine seems to be working extremely well considering its 40 years old, but at 275, it's still cheap insurance for knowing you got something that works perfectly.
 
XJsavage said:
Have you considered just rebuilding the one you have? For the price of a good rebuild kit you can easily buy two 435 transmissions from a junkyard, but here's a kit I was looking at for mine.
USA Standard Gear ZMBK127WS
Mine seems to be working extremely well considering its 40 years old, but at 275, it's still cheap insurance for knowing you got something that works perfectly.
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I already bought the rebuild kit when I was having the input shaft bearing retainer issues, thinking I needed to rebuild it. But my 1st gear in this trans is pretty chewed up and my other np435 one is a 4wd trans so I need to get a new output shaft for it, which will put me at about 280 invested to rebuild that trans and have it as a backup since all of its gears are in good shape. I've seen a couple for sale since I bought my rebuild kit for a decent price and have considered just buying a recently rebuilt one but haven't pulled the trigger on one yet because it has to be a 2wd trans to match my transfer case spline.
 
XJsavage said:
Have you considered just rebuilding the one you have? For the price of a good rebuild kit you can easily buy two 435 transmissions from a junkyard, but here's a kit I was looking at for mine.
USA Standard Gear ZMBK127WS
Mine seems to be working extremely well considering its 40 years old, but at 275, it's still cheap insurance for knowing you got something that works perfectly.
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NP 435 Master Rebuild Overhaul Kit w/ Synchros - Broncograveyard.com
This is the kit I bought. Comes with everything except the synchro shells I think. I'll have to look in the packaging to be certain but it comes with the rest of the synchro parts and is us standard brand
 
Jody Treadway said:
Glad to hear it worked for ya.
Like I've said before "I'm so bright, my momma (God rest her sweet soul) called me son"
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I've been driving it for a couple days, just got it inspected and about a block from home it started to do the exact same thing the 2500 MC was doing, no pressure on the pedal but the brakes are still working, no leaks in the system everything is still hooked up, but i have no pedal pressure even if i try to "pump" the brakes up. Any ideas of what it might be?
 
If it was ok for a few days, you know you were on the right path. With the cap off and someone pumping the pedal, look for bubbles. That would indicate the master has an internal leak
 
Jody Treadway said:
If it was ok for a few days, you know you were on the right path. With the cap off and someone pumping the pedal, look for bubbles. That would indicate the master has an internal leak
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I'll try that once I can get an extra pair of legs out here to pump the brakes.
 
a_kelley said:
Also check calipers & wheel cylinders for leakage behind the boots!! (Even if they're new.... Anything is plausible and/or possible.)
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I haven't seen any leaking around any of the lines for the calipers and I have good pressure with the jeep off but as soon as it is on it loses all pedal pressure.
 
I may have missed it, but are the soft lines new? Check for ballooning. Also, you are running steel or niCopp and not poly race lines, right?
 
a_kelley said:
I may have missed it, but are the soft lines new? Check for ballooning. Also, you are running steel or niCopp and not poly race lines, right?
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All of the soft lines are new or less than a year old with less than 3000 miles on them. All other lines are stainless steel lines. None have any leaks coming from them.
 
I think I've got the brakes figured out. Or close to figured out. It doesn't lock them up but it stops fairly quickly and the pedal has some pressure just not as much as I'm used to. Next 2 tasks will be to get the shocks mounted on Sunday hopefully and get the steering figured out. It feels very jittery. Which I am currently attributing to no shocks in the front causing body roll and converting the body roll into steering input. Sunday the shock towers will go on and I'll see how it handles after that.
 
YJKrawlin said:
But my 1st gear in this trans is pretty chewed up and my other np435 one is a 4wd trans so I need to get a new output shaft for it, which will put me at about 280 invested to rebuild that trans and have it as a backup since all of its gears are in good shape
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First gear is square cut. It's going to make noise no matter what.
 
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