New HVAC

shawn said:
So again, you think there's a 10% delta here, not 2-3x, but you still want to argue about it and knock down some straw men. What the fuck ever. You could have just said you agreed with me six posts ago.
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Man your reading comprehension has gone way down hill.

You are 10% below what I pay, as a very educated consumer who also has a ton of buying power. You are probably half of what joe blow on the street pays.

And you totally ignore the warranty portion which is whatnim arguing.
 
Ron said:
5- I'm of suggesting you got a 90% off the boss is on vacation one time only deal. But you clearlyngkt about 10-15% below price I get from a mechanical contractor who I've known since 7th grade and has installed over a dozen had systems for me. You didn't get a typical price, I feel assured you know that.
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:shaking:
 
shawn said:
So again, you think there's a 10% delta here, not 2-3x, but you still want to argue about it and knock down some straw men. What the fuck ever. You could have just said you agreed with me six posts ago.
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Ron said:
Man your reading comprehension has gone way down hill.

You are 10% below what I pay, as a very educated consumer who also has a ton of buying power. You are probably half of what joe blow on the street pays.

And you totally ignore the warranty portion which is whatnim arguing.
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Argue much?
 
shawn said:
Again, I paid $3k actual dollars a few months ago for a turn-key install from an actual mechanical contractor. The deal came with a 10 year manuf warranty on parts and a 1yr labor warranty.

The parts cost about $2k, and most of a day's labor for the install makes up the other $1k.

If I ordered one off Amazon and paid some hayseed to install it, I might have saved $500, and I'd have no warranty.
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If you bought a Goodman unit you'd have the warranty. Showed you that earlier.

And no way in hell the average person can get a turn-key install from a contractor for $3k. You got a deal.
 
Cherokeekid88 said:
Question. Do most HVAC systems come with a thermostat? or is that always extra?
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If you hire the same dingleberry that my contractor used when we had our new house built, then he will install the cheapest one he can find that doesn't work properly with your system.
 
Upstairs air is out. $4200 2 Ton 14 SEER American Standard w heater/digi t stat. Pull and replace, use same ductwork. Original sytstem lasted 25 years so playing w house money.
But still, Fawk me
 
Franklin said:
Upstairs air is out. $4200 2 Ton 14 SEER American Standard w heater/digi t stat. Pull and replace, use same ductwork. Original sytstem lasted 25 years so playing w house money.
But still, Fawk me
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There's no fawking way. They cost $6-8 grand, minimum. I mean, we're talking about a couple grand in equipment and the better part of a day's labor. That shit doesn't come free, my friend.

Pacfanweb said:
If you bought a Goodman unit you'd have the warranty. Showed you that earlier.
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Go read the actual, legal warranty document.
 
$4875 - $400 for sealent that didnt work. Remove tax, going through business. $4200 and change
 

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Franklin said:
$4875 - $400 for sealent that didnt work. Remove tax, going through business. $4200 and change
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At 4800 you are only 160% more than Shawn's price.
But he didnt get a good deal.

:flipoff2:
 
Ron said:
At 4800 you are only 160% more than Shawn's price.
But he didnt get a good deal.

:flipoff2:
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No, he paid $4200 out the door, which is $300 less than I was quoted for furnace and A/C replacement. Pacfan was quoting $5-6k for just a split system.
 
shawn said:
No, he paid $4200 out the door, which is $300 less than I was quoted for furnace and A/C replacement. Pacfan was quoting $5-6k for just a split system.
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Shawn, he paid $4875. He had previously paid a $400 repair bill for labor and sealant to a leaking coil.
The repair failed so they credited his previous payment towards the purchase of a new unit.He also avoided sales tax which would be another $200, since he owned a business.

Im not sure what you are arguing at this point.
Is it your position that no one pays $5-6k for a 2 TON HVAC install?
Because if it is I can show you dozens of receipts to contest that.

Is your point that good deals CAN be had in person?
If so thats absolutely fact and I agree.

BUT in your case or Franklin's its still costs more than buying online and paying an installer to install it.
Some folks dont think $4-500 is worth the headache and exposure, I sure as hell dont today. But when I was younger and dollars were tighter, Id have bought online to save the $400 every time. Hell Id have done it to save $50. And fought the warranty issue if and when it arose.

Most companies I deal with use a standard 15% markup on 3rd party equipment to cover their paperwork and labor, and a bit of insurance if their guy screws it up accidentally.

But you can buy the same 14 SEER 2 Ton unit here for $1,700.

Goodman GSX140241, CAPF3636A6, GMS80403AN 2 Ton 14 SEER 80% AFUE Gas Electric Air Conditioner System

I promise you can pay the same guy who would install it for your preferred HVAC contractor $500 to install it after hours on his time off. You get the same quality of installation by the same guy.

You are now all in at $2,200. Even IF they successfully deny my warranty claim, I can pay for a lot of repairs for the $2,600 savings. Hell I can take that savings and buy a complete spare system, have 1 extra of every part in my system and store it in the garage if I want.

Yes I am arguing for the sake of it now just like you are. :flipoff2:
 
Alright, New HVAC system is in and man! It is so nice to have nice cool air circulating through the house! Outdoor unit is super quiet and indoor unit is quieter than our old one, just not quiet enough for us...Now, I know a lot of the noise is through our tiny return... its a 10x20. I thought that I could upgrade to say a 20x20 return, but the return needs to be smaller than the box the Handler sits on. I could probably upgrade to a 14x20 or maybe a 16x20. It just seems a lot of the noise is coming from the air being forced in such a small return. Also, the closet that the handler sits in is not a sealed, full closing door. So just wondering if upgrading the size of the return would help enough and if there is anything I can do to make the handler less noticeable while inside?
 
Current opening for return. Options?
 

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rockcity said:
At least remove that board that is blocking the opening and open the opening even closer to the floor as much as possible.
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I was thinking the same thing. I can tell that the majority of the noise is coming from the return. Is there anything I can do to help eliminate the noise produced by the handler itself? Does the closet door need to be open so it can breathe or can I insulate it a little better?
 
You want all your air flowing through the return so it’s filtered. It looks like your return isn’t ducted but a simple return grill in your wall.

I’d seal the door up as best as I could. I’d also open up the existing return as much as possible and keep a normal size filter.
 
rockcity said:
You want all your air flowing through the return so it’s filtered. It looks like your return isn’t ducted but a simple return grill in your wall.

I’d seal the door up as best as I could. I’d also open up the existing return as much as possible and keep a normal size filter.
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So no issue with having an 80% furnace and sealing the door?
 
Curtis_H said:
The openings on the furnace door are for your combustion air. You can not seal that off unless the furnace has other options for combustion air.
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our furnace door has no openings in it, just a regular closet door. The door does have gaps, that i used weatherstripping on to seal it better once its closed to reduce the noise heard. i do have a pipe that comes down that is open that allows fresh air in the closet (im guessing that is what this pipe does) would that be for combustion air?
 
Cherokeekid88 said:
our furnace door has no openings in it, just a regular closet door. The door does have gaps, that i used weatherstripping on to seal it better once its closed to reduce the noise heard. i do have a pipe that comes down that is open that allows fresh air in the closet (im guessing that is what this pipe does) would that be for combustion air?
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That pipe is probably for exhaust.

Unless I’m missing something, it sounds like your furnace is drawing air from the closet and using that air for combustion as well. And by the looks of your return, it is not ducted and allows air into the closet via the hole in the wall with the filter?
 
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