‘79 CJ5 Preservation

[orange150]

Are you going to convert to H4s? I didn’t since quadratec makes a direct replacement led lamp I didn’t want to cut the pigtails off.

 

[StretchASU]

Are you going to convert to H4s? I didn’t since quadratec makes a direct replacement led lamp I didn’t want to cut the pigtails off.

I am. I had the painless conversion harness and KC retrofits for the CYJ so I’m robbing those in the meantime. These sealed beams weren’t even sealed anymore and super dim.

 

[StretchASU]

Nothing picture worthy but I got a chance to drive it around a bit on Friday and see how the ignition changes were doing under power. Power wise, the roll on miss it had is gone completely and pulls hard.

Steering wise, It wandered a lot and there was play in the steering box and wheel. I adjusted the box and went for another drive and it was considerably better. Bump steer is gone and it’s actually goes where it’s supposed to when you give it some input.

The carb still needs work as the idle kind of has a mind of its own after you’ve driven for a while and the thermostat is not opening.

 

[grapehead]

mc2100 is a great carb to swap on there, vastly increased drivability on my old CJ

 

[StretchASU]

Got a chance to finish up the H4 headlight swap. It’s very straightforward using the Painless relay harness. There are a few cheaper options for relay harnesses, but I returned them after inspecting the harnesses before install. Loose connections, bad soldering jobs etc. No OEM wiring has to be cut with this harness and it is all plug and play.

I had to replace one headlight adjuster. Drill the old one, bolt the new one in and move on.

Next, I got started tracking down all of these loose vacuum lines. These are all of the lines that were unhooked, capped and/or hanging around the engine bay. They’re all dry rotted or swollen so even if they go back on, they’ll be replaced.

 

[CasterTroy]

Ready to sell it?

(I'm likely gonna axe you dis errr few months )

 

[willness33]

I was watching for the H4 conversion cause Im contemplating the same. Looks like my decision has been made.

 

[StretchASU]

Ready to sell it?

(I'm likely gonna axe you dis errr few months )

 

[StretchASU]

@CasterTroy Billy Mays says I’m almost ready for that 94 eclipse.

 

[orange150]

That was quick!

 

[StretchASU]

That was quick!

Wyoming was quick to return money for tags I didn’t draw it was a Jim beam fueled consolation purchase.

 

[StretchASU]

Got started on the EFI swap tonight.
Removing the old stuff is straightforward. Just be sure to label any hoses that will get hooked back up. Since this one was partially smog deleted and doesn’t have a vac brake booster, the only vac line to hook back up is for the distributor advance.

Remove old carb, clean gasket surfaces, install new studs and gaskets, drop on the Sniper. Have a good swivel and 1/2” to get the flange bolts back on as it’s tight on the passenger side to clear the TPS. Block off the stock fuel pump with a plate from a Chevy big block or any number of other plates/gaskets that fit. This is one thing the kit doesn’t come with.

There is a plug in the block under the intake manifold that fits the new temp sending unit for the Sniper computer perfectly. Just be quick with the new one ready to go in unless you’ve drained all the coolant.

The only pretty asinine thing with this kit is the throttle linkage on the throttle body end. It faces the passenger side. Factory carb setup, the pin faces the drivers side. They could at least make it threaded instead of splined and pressed in so you can change the orientation to fit multiple styles of linkage rods. Results may vary if someone has swapped to an MC2100 or Weber and has already rebuilt their linkage, but for a kit marketed to replace the stock carb, this is a dumb but solvable problem.

Still need to finish up the fuel plumbing, wiring, cut and turn the stock linkage arm, block off the EGR and install the O2 sensor.

 

[orange150]

The only pretty asinine thing with this kit is the throttle linkage on the throttle body end. It faces the passenger side. Factory carb setup, the pin faces the drivers side.

That must be an '81 and older thing, mine faces the driver's side.

'nother pic

 

[willness33]

Super curious to see how the holley works out for you

 

[willness33]

That must be an '81 and older thing, mine faces the driver's side.

View attachment 348229

So does my 83 but it's got a weber

 

[StretchASU]

Got the fuel system plumbed and wired in tonight. All that is left is to figure out a good switched 12v source thats hot during cranking as well to trigger the relay, drill in the O2 sensor and modify the linkage arm.

 

[willness33]

Got the fuel system plumbed and wired in tonight. All that is left is to figure out a good switched 12v source thats hot during cranking as well to trigger the relay, drill in the O2 sensor and modify the linkage arm.
View attachment 349017View attachment 349018

Waiting to hear that it's awesome and you got at least another 25 horse pressures from it and every 258 needs one.

 

[StretchASU]

Initial run video:



Got home tonight and tightened up the last few bolts and wiring connections. It fired up on the 3rd crank…after I unreversed the fuel pump. The relay trigger requires a switched 12v that is hot during cranking. I tied it in to the windshield wiper circuit at the fuse block with an Add a circuit. Simple, easy to access.

The startup is simple. Scroll through a few menu options on the touch screen for which kit you’re using, set your displacement, ignition style, idle rpm and send the settings to the ECU, it does the rest.

A beer and running some parts to @stinkbomb and he fixed the linkage issue for me.

 

[willness33]

Initial run video:



Got home tonight and tightened up the last few bolts and wiring connections. It fired up on the 3rd crank…after I unreversed the fuel pump. The relay trigger requires a switched 12v that is hot during cranking. I tied it in to the windshield wiper circuit at the fuse block with an Add a circuit. Simple, easy to access.

The startup is simple. Scroll through a few menu options on the touch screen for which kit you’re using, set your displacement, ignition style, idle rpm and send the settings to the ECU, it does the rest.

A beer and running some parts to @stinkbomb and he fixed the linkage issue for me.

View attachment 349409View attachment 349410

Holy shit that is smooth. I thought my 258 with a Weber idled nice...

 

[StretchASU]

Holy shit that is smooth. I thought my 258 with a Weber idled nice...

It’s currently set at 850 which is what the manual suggested starting at. Jumps to about 1250 for a few seconds after startup and drops right back to the 850’s. I’ll see what the drive-ability is like and adjust if necessary.

 

[StretchASU]

First drive went well. Made a few laps around the neighborhood then ran around locally for about 20 miles. Power is great, it will run 55mph at 2150rpm or so. Before it struggled to run 50. It’s almost like driving a 2 speed since you’re out of first so quick. It lugs well and pulls in 3rd without needing to downshift at every hill.

The only thing I need to get dialed is the starting. Holley is very clear that it needs 12v during cranking and it’s slow to start from time to time mainly after driving. I’ve kept it on a tender since we got it so I’ve probably been masking that issue at cold start. The alternator is charging and the monitor is reading 13-14v when running. But the battery sits around 11.8-12.2 unless I keep the tender on it overnight. It’s dated 2016 so I’ll swap it out for good measure, replace the terminals and clean up all the grounds.

 

[StretchASU]

Much more consistent starting and a LOT faster engine turnover than the old 450cca battery that was in it.

The hot start issue is mostly gone now. I did figure out that it is very particular about letting the full prime cycle complete when you key on before you crank the Jeep.

After playing with the idle, I settled on 820rpm. It accelerates off idle a little smoother and is quieter at idle…as quiet as something with a cherry bomb and turndown can be. That is going to the muffler shop to be routed out the back ASAP.

The wife and I usually make it up to Myrtle Mtn once a year for a trip to Dollywood and general redneckery tourism. Last year our covid rescheduled trip ended up being during Smoky Mountain Jeep Invasion. She requested that we go back this year and take this to “drive around and judge people with bad taste”

 

[jcramsey]

Glad to see this setup is working good. I’ve got one of the Sniper BBD kits in the box I’m hoping to make work on a Chevy 292.

 

[StretchASU]

Made a 70 mile round trip run to a buddys house tonight. Power is of no issue. 55-60mph is a solid cruising speed and getting there isn’t a problem. It still smokes a good bit til you’re cruising in 3rd. The hard start comes and goes. Following the Holley troubleshooting guide, it may be attributed to a dead spot in the ignition switch causing it to lose signal for a second. They recommend a specific relay from DelCity to fix this which I will have to try. The headlight conversion was well worth it and the tires are on their last leg. There was a visible difference in the dry cracking after tonight’s trip. They’ll get replaced soon.

 

[Scooter402]

Made a 70 mile round trip run to a buddys house tonight. Power is of no issue. 55-60mph is a solid cruising speed and getting there isn’t a problem. It still smokes a good bit til you’re cruising in 3rd. The hard start comes and goes. Following the Holley troubleshooting guide, it may be attributed to a dead spot in the ignition switch causing it to lose signal for a second. They recommend a specific relay from DelCity to fix this which I will have to try. The headlight conversion was well worth it and the tires are on their last leg. There was a visible difference in the dry cracking after tonight’s trip. They’ll get replaced soon.
View attachment 350330View attachment 350331

SO much want.... I probably said this before already - Don't leave that laying around. I'll wrassle @CasterTroy (and I'll probably get tossed like a rag doll ) if we both find it at the same time.