1985 4runner SR5

taylor1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2006
Location
Charlotte
Figured I'd finally post a build thread after some 9 years owning the truck. I'll cover the good and the bad as well as novice mistakes along the way.

I've been around nc4x4 since owning the truck, lurking basically. Maybe I'll add something worthwhile.

Starting with it's current state... the only photos on the phone.
 

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Purchased in Walahalla SC April, 2005

4" pro comp lift spring and 33s stock steering

Power windows were stuck up and rear window glass was in the rear cargo area, previous owner gave up on the repairs.
 
It was a high school daily driver at that point. Got front windows to the down position for my first trip to URE. Rode around for a few months like that before cobbling together a working set of junk yard window motors and front switches. Managed to wire a dpdt rear window switch to a working window motor as well.
 
Saw quite a bit of clutch smoke on the first URE run.
 

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The 22re from the very beginning was a pain to start when cold, so I ran the cold start injector and fuel pump jumper wires as described by Roger Brown's 4crawler.com. After a few more trips in this form decided the pro comp suspension was too stiff.
 

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Under some advice and assistance from another member here, I decided to tackle a budget suspension swap over spring break 2006. The idea was 63" chevy rear springs double shackle and rears up front.
 

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That week build turned into a month or so when the 4" rear pro comp springs didn't work out and we forgot to address the whole steering situation. The 4runner ended up with trail gear cross over steering the pro comp front springs reversed, new frame mounts and shackles up front. All this made for a sky high 4runner on 33s.
 

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One might think the 4runner looks clean, For the moment it was. I had just covered a baseball sized rust hole behind the factory rock shield hole in bondo mesh sheet and the green cat hair bondo sells at wal-mart.
 

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Drove around in 2wd for the summer of 2006 until i returned to NCSU as a sophomore. Meet a buddy who helped me build a front square drive shaft and I continued to wheel at URE. Daily driving with 260k was taking its toll. Poor cooling system and poor replacement parts lead to a few too many overheats. Who knew 22re engines prefer Toyota replacement parts. The final thermostat overshoot killed the engine on I-40/85 in Greensboro by emerald point water park. Rebuilt head and all the gaskets went smoothly back together all of about 6 months. Then the same intermittent overheating happened again. From there came the idea for engine swap.
 
Located a Lincoln Mark 7 LSC 1988 5.0 donor car. Engine started and ran, but it had a bad transmission. I traded a set of 35 tsl tires for the engine. We pulled engine, harness, computer and all sensors.
 
Pulled the 22re, sold the 5 speed and fuel injection pieces locally. Started planning and collecting parts including Advanced Adapters AOD to Toyota t case kit.
 
Collecting parts took nearly a year on the college budget and schedule at the time. It sat at a buddy's house until we finally got everything set/ measured and welded in place. Basically everything except the adapter kit was used parts from the junkyard or Craigslist.
 

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Placement ended up with less than two inches between the firewall and cylinder heads. We removed and blocked the EGR system. Switched from the ford power steering to chevy astro pump and external reservoir. The pump all went together with some rough cut 1/4 inch plate bracket and lots of grinding.
 

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Once the the drive train was secured to home built motor mounts and transmission cross member, exhaust was next. We collected mandrel bent cadillac exhaust at LKQ and pieced together just enough to go from the summit block hugger sbf headers (another purchased part I forgot) through a leftover, but free tractor muffler to dump at the rear axle. It was then towed to my condo parking lot so I could get the toyota and ford systems wired to run. $600 daily driver mazda 626 in the background.
 

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I can't wait to see the rest of this build I would love to do this to my 4 runner! Keep up the good work
 
The 4runner sat in the condominium parking lot while I wired the Toyota and ford harness' to become one. The ford computer harness needed toyota battery constant, switched ignition, starter switch then connection from the computer to fuel pump, tach and charge indicator (sn95 3g alternator upgrade). Picking through color diagrams and colored wires for several days got it to turn over and fire on starting fluid only. The lincoln harness is way overcomplicated for the swap due to many luxury extras compared to the fox mustangs. A few more afternoons and a tow warning for having expired tags and flat tires it still wouldn't run own its own. Lots or reading in the web lead me to the answer. Turns out the toyota EFI fuel pump does not make the pressure to fire the ford fuel injectors. A junkyard fuel pump from a 4.6 crown vic solved that problem.
 
I had grabbed a AOD junkyard core about the time the donor engine was pulled. It was rebuilt on a 2nd hand favor/trade like the rest of the stuff. A leftover B&M ratchet shifter was bolted to to a 1/8 plate bracket, welded to the tunnel and the original hole closed with sheet metal. The engine needed valve cover and oil pan gaskets to replace the originals, it poured out when parked on a drivers side hill. Rear main seal leak was annoying but not bad enough pull it back apart. Oil filter is a short style half inch thread common on dirt track cars, its a parts store Renault something. Should have changed it before assembly, live and learn. I had a newer 3.0 aluminum toyota radiator in the 4runner already so I tried it out with a 16" pusher electric fan zip tied right on front where the AC condenser once lived. A cheap sunpro water temp gauge and on/off switch did the job. It cooled 2wd daily driving loads fine, so it stayed for the time being.

The original 85 rear drive shaft was cut and mated to a newer front toyota CV joint to handle the increased drive line angle. This required a triple drilled flange on the smaller 85 t-case. The front 2 inch in 1.5 inch square tube front had enough slip to still bolt up. Since shackles are up front the suspension droop arc does not pull the shaft apart. She drove smooth to 60 mph, mild vibrations to around 70 then it clears up again to 80 in the tires are okay. I drove it from NCSU to Charlotte for the summer 2008? in this state. Nothing pretty, but it all held together.
 

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Yea. Awesome cars. I bought the 626 for $600 260k, 2 years later sold it for $1000 with 280K. My sister bought it back from a another owner. She sold it almost a year later still running.
 
First photo circa 2009. Second in Nov 2012 lower daniel ledge and goofy bumper. I've spent the last 4.5 years driving this on weekend camping and wheeling trips. Ive only done small upgrades and repairs for the most part. Shortly after graduation from NCSU and starting a real job, I bought a Northern Tool 135 120V welder and mig gas set up. This opened up a few more options while working/learning to weld out of a storage unit. You can do a lot with a cheap welder, bench vice, grinder and sawzall.

Welded 85 rear axle to replace a broken pinion gear, learned the hard way to not wheel with anything but solid steel blocks
Found first set of used maxxis bighorn 35x12.50x15 on craiglist
Welded in catalytic converters to pass NC inspections
Installed 94 4runner calipers, master cylinder and booster with fj60 rotors
1.25" bolt on spacers on all four corners
Trail gear front shock hoops
5125 bilsteins front and rear
trail gear sliders mounted to match wider stance, made for a poorly positioned side step as well
Welded on TG small rear and full front diff protection
Coincidentally found another set of used maxxis bighorns to replace ones worn slick driving on a welded rear
Bought a used home built trail copy front bumper, giant stinger and all.
 

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Finally went to an aluminum summit radiator and thermostatic fan controller about a year ago. I removed the middle of the factory core support to weld in 1/8" angle vertical braces and a removable top brace. The braces tie to the body front body mounts at the bottom. It would struggle to stay below 210F wheeling 4wd low in the summer time, now I can easily hold 190F.

This past winter I managed to keep the 200k mile 5.0 alive with a tune up, copper header/collector gaskets and new oxygen sensors. This finally fixed an intermittent hesitation that I chased for a good two months. Oxygen sensors and exhaust leaks were making the computer think the engine was running lean, then adding fuel to correct but actually making a choking rich condition.
 
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After looking at pictures scratching on paper and MS paint for years, I bought parts to build a rear bumper. I slowly attacked a rear bumper tire carrier over the period of about 8 months. Purchased Dave's 3/8 plate bumper brackets, Comp4x4 1 3/4 double shear spindle kit, rubber bumps and de-sta-co double lock latch. Ended up with local structural steel fab drops for a good deal. 5 foot 6x4 .25" wall center and 6x2 .125" wall sides.

I cut down the center section first and slipped in agri supply receiver tube.
 

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I plasma cut the back side out of the space between to the square mounts and receiver, making room to get a pin in and out since i over looked that part in the planning... Thinking the whole time .25" rectangle is overkill, i kept moving forward. Mounting height position matches the current poor departure angle running chevy rear leaf springs, so no loss there.
 
I ran the center bumper for a couple months while thinking about how to mount the spare tire. I ended up with a full stick 20ft of 2x2 and 2x4 .125" tube and went to town cutting. I ended up just leaving enough room for the spindle itself, not enough for the double shear bracket. After working through that issue everything else came together alright.
 

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