1985 4runner SR5
- Thread starter taylor1
- Start date
Front and rear E- lockers are both working with the test wiring rig and motorcycle battery. Went a few rounds with the rear actuator. I re-glued the magnets in the wrong magnetic pole orientation. Burnt the JB weld and freed the magnets. Broke one magnet cleaning the jb weld, so jb welded that one together. Finally got the compass and set the magnets rights.
It still didn't work until I took it all apart to set timing stroke and rebuild. Good articles on pirate and Marlins site.
It still didn't work until I took it all apart to set timing stroke and rebuild. Good articles on pirate and Marlins site.
Thanks man. Good deal. The 4runner has been a good exercise in patience and problem solving. Sure yours is the same.
Love too. Might be a little while on mine. Currently, in the middle of paint and interior. Also need to replace my rod bearings.
Shiny LROR E locker motor guards got a quick shot of black paint. I went one drill bit size up and trimmed the edge next to the carrier for ease of installation. Overall nice product For $43 each + shipping.
Frightening wires and relays are secured for now. This solution is only slightly better looking than the test wiring bundle.
I'm planning on being out at URE on black Friday next week. Maybe noon time until whenever.
HELP...ideas suggestions needed. Im trying to make new frame tabs and/or modify the bud built transfer case skid crossmember to fit the longer drive train. Let me know what you guys would do. This is not supporting the whole weight of the drivetrain, there's another xmember on the factory AOD trans mount. Rough drawing below.
Factory Frame nuts are 6+ inches too far forward. Bud xmember holes can be used on one side. Drilling 3/8 w/o a drill press is miserable. Options so far.
A: weld angle to bud xmember, bolt tab to frame after welded flush nuts and plate.
B: weld angle to inside frame. Bolt bud xmember to angle.
C: extend bud xmember, buy more angle to weld on both frame sides. Bolt it up.
Factory Frame nuts are 6+ inches too far forward. Bud xmember holes can be used on one side. Drilling 3/8 w/o a drill press is miserable. Options so far.
A: weld angle to bud xmember, bolt tab to frame after welded flush nuts and plate.
B: weld angle to inside frame. Bolt bud xmember to angle.
C: extend bud xmember, buy more angle to weld on both frame sides. Bolt it up.
Chris_Keziah
Joe Dirt @ Rev Limit Fab
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2010
- Location
- Winston-Salem
I would do B and maybe C. Depends on how much of the skid lays on the frame.
pitbullcruiser
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2010
- Location
- Longmont, CO
Check this out for some ideas.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...offical-picture-post-t-case-crossmembers.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...offical-picture-post-t-case-crossmembers.html
There's not an off the shelf cross member that I know of for a 5.0 HO AOD Advance Adapter Toyota T case combo...
This was a craigslist or NC4x4 deal a few years ago.
Not a bad idea.
Got the bud built cross member skid mounted up. No more shattered transfer case nightmares. Went with option B as sketched above. Mainly chose B because Option C is still available plus the cross member can used on stock toyota running gear/frame someday.
Drilled two new holes in the driver side diagonal section of the cross member. 3x3 .25 angle was cut bent and rewelded to match the driver side cross member diagonal. Then drilled for 1/2 hardware with nuts welded to the bracket. Passenger was the same process but flat. AOD trans height actually keeps me from raising the tcase any further.
Drilled two new holes in the driver side diagonal section of the cross member. 3x3 .25 angle was cut bent and rewelded to match the driver side cross member diagonal. Then drilled for 1/2 hardware with nuts welded to the bracket. Passenger was the same process but flat. AOD trans height actually keeps me from raising the tcase any further.
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I am assuming you welded the angle iron to the frame? I would suggest that you put another angle iron/ bolt assembly on the front side and weld the bottoms. ....
Maybe over kill, but I would weld some 45° plate in your angle iron..
Maybe over kill, but I would weld some 45° plate in your angle iron..
Yes, the vertical face (top corners cut off an inch in) of the angle was plug and perimeter welded to the frame. I don't follow you exactly, you mean adding angle and bolt pair to the outboard side of each frame rail? This would mimic the factory transfer case cross member setup. I've already got a trans cross member helping keep stuff in place.
The right triangle brace on the front and back side of the angle wouldn't hurt on the chance the full weight rests on the skid. The 3/8 cross member would have to bend and drive train twist, enabling the horizontal angle to fold up. The stuff is strong in vertical load.
Just talking through all this out loud. I appreciate the responses.
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I've been chasing down driveability issues for a few weeks now.
A new air filter cured the low power and rich exhaust smell I've had for a bit. Anyone run prefilter cloth for URE dust?
Discount tire re-balanced the duratracs and got rid of vibes between 55 and 75.
I misadjusted the AOD tv cable a while back and finally connected the dots back to that as part of the cause for gas mileage. Corrected that back to a neutral factory setting, no transmission line pressure gauge, so i set it to no slop in the cable. Its been a noticeable seat of the pants improvement so far. I hope this tank's mpg will be up to 15-16 from 12-13 mixed driving.
Slowly mounting and wiring lights I've had for a year. Rock lights will find a home down below and the work lights might get a bracket to mount on the spare tire studs.
A new air filter cured the low power and rich exhaust smell I've had for a bit. Anyone run prefilter cloth for URE dust?
Discount tire re-balanced the duratracs and got rid of vibes between 55 and 75.
I misadjusted the AOD tv cable a while back and finally connected the dots back to that as part of the cause for gas mileage. Corrected that back to a neutral factory setting, no transmission line pressure gauge, so i set it to no slop in the cable. Its been a noticeable seat of the pants improvement so far. I hope this tank's mpg will be up to 15-16 from 12-13 mixed driving.
Slowly mounting and wiring lights I've had for a year. Rock lights will find a home down below and the work lights might get a bracket to mount on the spare tire studs.
My AFE cone filter got pretty nasty at URE. I got a prefilter sock from Outerwears, Inc. - Original manufacturer of Pre-Filters & Shockwears. I will test that out this weekend, hopefully it makes a big difference.
Nice runner.
Nice runner.