1985 4runner SR5

[taylor1]

Maybe $350 in parts and many many hours over almost a year, its easy to see why shops can ask $1500+ for full swing out bumper kits. I took it up and down a few times for test fits: step 1, remove tire and wheel. step 2, unbolt double shear bracket and remove swing out arm. step 3, unbolt and remove bottom bumper.

This thing is heavy, so I'm currently looking for 2500 suburban or chevy cargo van springs to deal with bumper and camping gear weight. I've also go a late 90s trooper rear sway bar to mount up after redoing rear shock axle mounts. All this will go in at the same time as the disc brake rear 4.88 elocker currently in the works.

 

[benXJ]

Thanks for the bumper pics and info. That's next for my 85.

 

[taylor1]

Got into some rust repair a while back. This same spot continued to pop up showing rust after sanding prime and repaint a couple times over the past 5 years.
This time around I was scratching at it and went through...

External seam sealer gave out so the factory foam gasket between outer body and inner gas cap housing was holding water. It was basically rusting from the inside out. The 20 ft quality repair fits in with the rest of the truck.

 

[taylor1]

I cut a chunk out of another 2nd gen pickup in the junkyard and made it fit. Unknown to me at before cutting into the junk yard truck, the 4runner is a single piece outer body and the truck is two pieces at this spot. I had very little material to work with getting the metal patch welded in.

 

[taylor1]

The slowest elocker swap ever is still ongoing. 95 junkyard pickup IFS housing and shafts for now with 4.88 gears set up by ECGS. I'm planning to run 1990 trooper ebrake calipers and montero sport rotors. This will maintain the stock handle operated emergency brake.

 

[taylor1]

The 4runner pulled some daily driver duties while doing 190k mile timing belt service on my 2004 WRX. Three weeks was apparently all it wanted.

Brakes went to crap. Very stiff pedal with no stopping power. I started losing brake fluid. I got a new vacuum booster and master on my initial thoughts just to find out fluid was disappearing out a leaky rear wheel cylinder. Never noticed it until I hit the tire with a flashlight and saw the shiny rubber. Replaced the rear wheel cylinder, bleed the system with no results.

More thinking and reading. Booster and master tested out alright after all. Front fj60 rotors are nearly black, glazed?

 

[taylor1]

Turning rotors snow balled into front axle and suspension rebuild.

 

[taylor1]

Original front axle has never been apart as far as I know. They've always leaked gear oil, so I've got a nice mess at the moment.

 

[taylor1]

Keeping the suspension simple. I need just enough lift to get crossover steering to clear the 5.0 oil pan when stuffing the passenger front tire. Lots of test fitting this time around.

Toyota years up front will be mixed with procomp 4" lift springs all cut to length to make 6 or 7 leaf pack. Trail gear drop front hanger and shackles. I may cut and turn the knuckles if needed to finally fix my poor caster angle wandering road manners.

 

[taylor1]

Updates! This project hit rock bottom when I got the idea to redo the old steering box, engine and transmission mounts all while the engine and transmission sit in the truck. I went for a bit more isolation this time make the longer highway adventures a little more tolerable. The previous home scrap built motor mounts allowed the headers to rest on frame rails.

 

[taylor1]

Slowly but surely. New motor, trans and steering box mounts are done. New front hanger is fully welded and the front boxed in with the frame brace for a winch bumper. Rs44044 springs are in place.

Still needs

Radiator mounts
Fuel lines re plumbed
Rotor, caliper and hubs reinstalled
Steering stabilizer
Bump stops
Possibly a front sway bar

Then a full rear axle and suspension overhaul to match the front. Last I'll wire my ECGS 4.88 elocker front and rear.

 

[frankenyoter]

Loves me some yota porn. Keep it up!

 

[taylor1]

I need some second opinions. I have limited steering clearance with the 5.0 HO mustang oil pan. I can clearance the pan but that gets into modifying or swapping the pick up so that's a last resort.

Most of my research and experience suggests mounting steering stabilizer drag link to the frame is preferred. My best clearance is mounting the stabilizer from the tie rod to passenger frame rail as mocked up in the photos. Still effective, I imagine and much better than stabilizer mounted to the axle.

 

[taylor1]

I measured and mounted rough bump stops. I'll fully weld after gently testing the travel. Also cut and built lower radiator mounts and bent some upper brackets. I'm still looking for rubber to fit the channel in my summit racing aluminum radiator.

 

[taylor1]

Fired it up for the first time in months. Hubs and brakes are assembled. New -6 nylon braid fuel line. I'll hook up and bleed the steering for a short test drive.

 

[taylor1]

Fired it up for the first time in months. Hubs and brakes are assembled. New -6 nylon braid fuel line. I'll hook up and bleed the steering for a short test drive.

Everything is a tight fit

 

[taylor1]

The front is together. I finally got new seals in the steering box successfully. Took three tries on three different steering boxes. Exhaust work is scheduled for Friday then I can take care of a slightly overdue inspection.

Test drive around the neighborhood yesterday felt like riding on a marshmallow. I'll put the original 6th leaf back in the rancho 44044 spring pack and possibly a 7th cut to fit.

 

[taylor1]

Exhaust set up by Bob's Muffler in Garner. State Inspection done and a new sticker so it's on the road again for a short time.

I added the 6th leaf back in the 44044 front pack. The front is still very soft. I found a Ford ranger 2.5 inch wide rear spring pack donor to match the rancho front spring width. Add one more leaf to keep it off the bump stops.

 

[dorton]

Cool setup

 

[taylor1]

The front is done for now. It rides, handles, and turns much nicer than before. Stopping brake dive is different going from shackles on the front back to rear shackles.

 

[taylor1]

I started redoing the rear suspension. Pulled the 4 leaf 63 Chevy leaf and double shackle set up. Cut off the stock shackle hanger.

 

[taylor1]

The rear frame ends aren't meant to support the shackle hanger moved back 3+ inches. 2x3 rectangle tube fits in the toyota frame. Mocked up the rear extensions and a cross brace. Barnes4wd hanger and shackles waiting to be test fit and tacked in place.

 

[taylor1]

Slow progress working a couple nights a week couple hours at a time. Frame box extensions and new rear shackle hangers installed. Heavy awkward, to move by yourself, leaf springs cleaned up and in place.

Got to set my rear pinion angle and tack in place before putting weight on the springs. Any good tricks to measure twice and avoid weld cut weld cut trail and error? Stock rear shaft with a toyota front CV joint installed up top.

 

[taylor1]

Survived a test drive last night. Open rear diff, gears, and suspension make for a much improved ride compared to before.

 

[taylor1]

Surf fishing trip to Carolina Beach this weekend went well overall.

The 4runner is smooth to 60 mph then it shakes. At 70+ it's pretty bad. I'll take it back to discount tire for rotation and rebalance. Common and well documented Goodyear Duratrac problem if not balanced perfectly.