3D PRINTING

very new to this, learning with a fire hose basically, might actually print something worth while at some point, but for now .....
tempImage11xVmj.png
 
Holy smokes, the Bambu printer is SMOKING fast. I used to love watching the Creality CR10 print, not like watch a whole print or anything, but it's just fun to watch them work. The Bambu is mind blowing how much faster it is than the CR10. I am talking, moped vs CBR1000 difference....

That said, someone surely needs a CR10V3 🤣
 
Anyone interested in a year old CR10V3? Has BLtouch, spare extruder assembly, hotend, various other parts. Also has the Creality enclosure kit. Great printer, but I went and did a thing, bought a Bambu.... If it doesn't sell I'll put it on my workbench in the basement and save it in case I need to print something big. Build surface 300x300x400 so it's got a huge build volume! Looking to get $350

Lemme see if I can convince the wife that we need this at the school. She's been asking me to set up my MP out there...
 
Holy smokes, the Bambu printer is SMOKING fast. I used to love watching the Creality CR10 print, not like watch a whole print or anything, but it's just fun to watch them work. The Bambu is mind blowing how much faster it is than the CR10. I am talking, moped vs CBR1000 difference....

That said, someone surely needs a CR10V3 🤣
... now go print something in Vase Mode with the speed setting to Ludicrous.
Then do it again w/ the 0.6 or 0.8mm nozzle and watch your mind melt as you can see the thing grow befire your eyes.

The things you can do with input shaping from an IMU are incredible. Once this becomes common in the industry everything will be different.
 
Well since @Tacoma747 did a thing, I did a thing.

20240204_150750.jpg
 
So I had always wanted to print one of these for the SCX24's, but never wanted to wait 13-14 hours for one to print as there were enough chassis options that printed flat and are bolted together. Well, the Bambu printed it in a touch under 4 hours. It is absolutely insane how fast it prints. Not having to level the bed or set the nozzle offset is very awesome as well.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240203_234910915_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20240203_234910915_HDR.jpg
    124.7 KB · Views: 72
Last edited:
Not wrong lol. Don't you have one too?
I do have a CR10 V2, as well as an X1C. It had a massive nozzle clog. enough that it needed a whole new hot end so I bought a fancy Mosquito and BFG extruder as an upgrade, but never got around to swapping, then after I got the X1C I never touched the CR10 again. I recently gave up and ordered stock replacement parts for it to donate to our robotics program, but the board isn't recognizing the heater. So its still sitting, I'll probably just give it to one of the teenagers to figure out.
 
Dave has one of like every printer. Then he has even more at work 🤣
Hm. Geez this forced me to look around.
Yeah I have a Bibo2 (Our first one). that CR10, the X1C, a friend's X1 Sidewinder that my son adopted 18 months ago. And in my sunroom is an old Flashforge Creator Pro and an Ultimaker S2+ that belong to work.

At work we mostly use an Ultimaker S5, just turned in an old Stratasys F370 and have Fromlabs Form 3 and Form 3BL on order, along w/ a Bambu X1E. So I'll be learning to do weird things w/ SLA soon.

Between those and the handful of different things at the robotics nonprofit I'm had my hands on almost everything now.
 
Well since @Tacoma747 did a thing, I did a thing.

View attachment 411814
FYI Joel one of the first upgrades I'd reccomend is swapping the bed springs if it hasn't veen done yet, and at teh same time change from 4 screws to 3 using a kit like this:
Amazon product ASIN B08YYB57MD
They can probably be found cheaper now

The reason is its way easier to level w/ 3 knobs bc 3 points determines a plane, its easy to accidentally warp the bed w/ 4.
 
Last edited:
FYI Joel one of the first upgrades I'd reccomend is swapping the bed springs if it hasn't veen done yet, and at teh same time change from 4 screws to 3 using a kit like this:
Amazon product ASIN B08YYB57MD
They can probably be found cheaper now

The reason is its way easier to level w/ 3 knobs bc 3 points determines a plane, its easy to accidentally warp the bed w/ 4.
Is that necessary with the BL Touch on it? I can see how it could be helpful though.
 
Is that necessary with the BL Touch on it? I can see how it could be helpful though.
Even w/ the BL touch you'll need to level the bed (the official term is "tramming") occasionally bc the BL-T can only account for so much. E.g. its still possible for the mesh to get out of usable bounds.
Plus keep in mind auto bed leveling only makes the bottom of the part stick - it down't actually make the part flat or level. It just makes it an inverse of the ame contour as the bed. Its just so small you can't really see it.

Imagine you needed a perfect 100cm cube and the bed was out of level. Its exaggerated but what you would end up with is a cube that has 1 side 100.1 cm tall and another 99.9 cm tall, and the top and bottom faces are not parallel to one another.

BTW @Tacoma747 same principle still exists w/ that X1C too. You DO have to manually level the bed occasionally.
 
Anybody use octoprint? Specifically on an older windows laptop? With the printer being out in the school, it'd be nice to be able to track it and check on prints remotely.
 
Anybody use octoprint? Specifically on an older windows laptop? With the printer being out in the school, it'd be nice to be able to track it and check on prints remotely.
Yup.
Don't use a laptop. Put it on a Raspberry Pi 3. (a 4 or 5 would work too but they cost more).
Then use the OctoPi distro. Its very simple to set up, then you can remote submit jobs from anywhere in the house. Worth every penny of the Pi. And you can plug a Webcam into the pi and usei t to watch the prints.
 
Yup.
Don't use a laptop. Put it on a Raspberry Pi 3. (a 4 or 5 would work too but they cost more).
Then use the OctoPi distro. Its very simple to set up, then you can remote submit jobs from anywhere in the house. Worth every penny of the Pi. And you can plug a Webcam into the pi and usei t to watch the prints.
I've never used a raspberry pi before. I tend to print via cable as well. Which is why I mentioned just using the laptop. Not against a raspi though.
 
I've never used a raspberry pi before. I tend to print via cable as well. Which is why I mentioned just using the laptop. Not against a raspi though.
It's stupid easy to set up. You don't really need to know anything about Linux or Raspbian.
You literally insert the sd card into your Windows computer, download the installer, it puts it on the sd card, put card in Pi, and it's ready. (With a few minor things like setting your wifi info and making a root account name).

Then attach pi to the cr10 via USB. From that point on, you interact with Octoprint remotely from a browser on your laptop, phone, whatever by just going to the IP of the Pi.

 
It's stupid easy to set up. You don't really need to know anything about Linux or Raspbian.
You literally insert the sd card into your Windows computer, download the installer, it puts it on the sd card, put card in Pi, and it's ready. (With a few minor things like setting your wifi info and making a root account name).

Then attach pi to the cr10 via USB. From that point on, you interact with Octoprint remotely from a browser on your laptop, phone, whatever by just going to the IP of the Pi.

Hmmmm. That's interesting. Looks like I can be in it for 100 bucks including a Webcam.
 
Hmmmm. That's interesting. Looks like I can be in it for 100 bucks including a Webcam.
You can save $$ by using a Pi 3b. They are discontinued but still available, and are plenty for this job. And any cheap webcam will do, or you can get a Pi cam that connects right to the board. 3d print your own case for 50 cents worth of material.
 
lol just saw this on deh facetoobz

1707249676278.png
 
Back
Top