'64 International Scout 80 Build

Working on the back bumper tonight. I just need my son to finish the welding.

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Here it is you can see more pics https://www.facebook.com/BeaverTrailFabrication in the Chagaluggin 5MPH Album:

After 3-Years of working on it I finally have a license plate!

Specs:
1965 International Scout 80 that until now has never been titled, it was a Farm Truck.

Engine- 1993 Cummins Turbo Diesel 3.9L Intercooled made in Rocky Mount, NC
Bendix Tu-Flo Air Compressor
Bendix AD-IS Air Dryer
Champion 65 Ford Fairlane Radiator 4 Core Modified by Hurricane Racing
GM Astrovan Hydroboost Master Cylinder

Transmission- Ford T19 4 speed
Transfer Case- Dana 18 twin stick
Herm the Overdrive Guy 25% ATV Overdrive
Driveline Brake

Axels- Front
Dana 44 4.11 gears
1978 ¾ ton Chevrolet Housing
1978 ¾ ton Ford Outers (Short shaft is Chevrolet)
Warn Lockout Hubs

Rear - Dana 61 1978.5 F-250 HD 4x4 Pickup-Dana 61, 4.11 ratio, open case, full float axles
Individual Rear Wheel Emergency Brakes

Drive Shafts- Carolina Driveline Custom Double Cardan

Lift- 6"-16" Beaver Trail Fabrication Custom 4-Link Rear, 3-Link Front
Ballistic Fabrication 1.25" Heims and Brackets
Firestone W01-358-5712 Kneeling Bus Air Bags with 16" of Travel
Procomp MX Adjustable Series Shocks
Tires- Goodyear Wrangler M&S 10 Ply 37x12.50x16.5 Military-OZ

Winch- Military Surplus Mile Marker 10k Hydraulic
Viking Offroad Synthetic Winchline

Paint- Ron's Auto Body Aberdeen, NC
Rhino Lining of the Carolina's Aberdeen, NC

Bumpers Beaver Trail Fabrication Custom
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I have started working on the rusted cab top. Lots of brazing and welding. I warped it once and had to cut it and re-weld to get it straight. I used the POR-15 in a tube to coat all the swiss cheese areas I didn't replace.
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Awesome build man!:rockon:
 
I am popping out of 2nd gear when I try to coast in 2nd. Last night I pulled the cover on the T19 and found that I installed the 1st, 2nd slider gear backwards when I replaced the main shaft. Since I had already done this once I thought I could get it done in an evening. Well, when I pulled tailshaft I dropped all 22 of the needle bearings and I can't get the front bearing off the shaft. Four hours into it, I gave up for the night and I still don't have it apart.
 
I fixed the slider gear and put the tranny back in. The clutch is not holding so I pulled it back out. I would like to get a South Bend for it but I don't need the dual disk setup. For now I am on hold until I get a new clutch.
 
I am excited, South Bend Clutch is making me a 300HP clutch for my Cummins 4bt! Made in the USA!

Here is a pic of the 600HP South Bend Flywheel that uses a dual disk I put in my 06 F250. The 4BT will use a single disk and the stock flywheel.
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Forgot to drill for the Pyro while the engine was out and I can't fit the drill in there. Crap.
 
Have to ask a question. I looked through your album and saw you are using a Dana 18 offset output to a centered D61 rear axle. Are you running a CV on a flange at the pinion? I have never seen anyone run a rear shaft that far off angle before.
 
Since the angle from the D61 to the Dana 18 is a constant 12 degrees (It does not change as the vehicle raises and lowers) and the rear end is pointed at the transfer case (No double angle) we did not put a CV at the rear end. I think I read that 7-15 degrees is no mans land but over that you need a CV. We did put CV's at the front and rear of transfer case because of those angles. If it starts eating U-joints, I may need a plan "B" any suggestions?
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Unfortunately, you are going to get vibration at speed from the u-joint at the pinion on the rear axle, and it will prematurely fail. How it works is that a single-cardan output actually varies in speed faster and slower in RPM instantaneously if running at any angle other than 0°. When two single cardan joints are run at opposite ends of a drive shaft they balance each other out and produce a smooth, constant velocity rotation to the axle (even though the drive shaft is varying in speed faster and slower). They are at angles opposite to each other so the variation in RPM on one end is cancelled out at the other. Same thing happens in the microcosm of a CV joint. The joint itself is actually not running at a constant rate, instead it is speeding up and slowing down on the fly as the cardan joints swivel through their rotation when off-angle.

Thus, if you are running a CV at the T-case and have a single cardan joint at the opposite end running straight (as your front axle is) then all is well. The CV outputs a constant RPM, and since the single cardan at the other end is straight it runs at a constant RPM as well. In the case of your current rear setup, the CV at the T-case is turning the drive shaft at a constant RPM but when you hit the rear axle the varying speed rotation is fed to the axle pinion without anything to cancel it out. The vertical angle is 0° but your horizontal angle is almost 12°.

Read up here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index.html

The cheapest/easiest route to correct this is to swap your D61 pinion yoke for a CV type yoke and swap to a mating CV at the pinion end of the drive shaft. You can run a D60 CV yoke, they can be found at many drive line shops. The only other way to fix this is to offset your rear axle to make the drive shaft straight coming off the t-case as the original axle was, but that would be a huge pain and expense due to the large housing, your link setup, and needing new shafts.
 
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Dana 20 will not accommodate a stock driveline brake. Bolt-on overdrives are like hen's teeth. The Dana 18 he has is a nice compact package for such a short wheelbase rig.
 
OnlyOneDR said:
Unfortunately, you are going to get vibration at speed from the u-joint at the pinion on the rear axle, and it will prematurely fail. How it works is that a single-cardan output actually varies in speed faster and slower in RPM instantaneously if running at any angle other than 0°. When two single cardan joints are run at opposite ends of a drive shaft they balance each other out and produce a smooth, constant velocity rotation to the axle (even though the drive shaft is varying in speed faster and slower). They are at angles opposite to each other so the variation in RPM on one end is cancelled out at the other. Same thing happens in the microcosm of a CV joint. The joint itself is actually not running at a constant rate, instead it is speeding up and slowing down on the fly as the cardan joints swivel through their rotation when off-angle.

Thus, if you are running a CV at the T-case and have a single cardan joint at the opposite end running straight (as your front axle is) then all is well. The CV outputs a constant RPM, and since the single cardan at the other end is straight it runs at a constant RPM as well. In the case of your current rear setup, the CV at the T-case is turning the drive shaft at a constant RPM but when you hit the rear axle the varying speed rotation is fed to the axle pinion without anything to cancel it out. The vertical angle is 0° but your horizontal angle is almost 12°.

Read up here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index.html

The cheapest/easiest route to correct this is to swap your D61 pinion yoke for a CV type yoke and swap to a mating CV at the pinion end of the drive shaft. You can run a D60 CV yoke, they can be found at many drive line shops. The only other way to fix this is to offset your rear axle to make the drive shaft straight coming off the t-case as the original axle was, but that would be a huge pain and expense due to the large housing, your link setup, and needing new shafts.
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Are you suggesting to run a cv at both ends or just the axle end? Both ends would work, but not just axle end.

He either needs 2 CVs or no CVs.
 
This rig is turning out awesome!
 
Thanks for the info guys. I am still reading billavista writeup on drive shafts but, it looks like I can expect 20% life out of that rear joint as installed.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
Are you suggesting to run a cv at both ends or just the axle end? Both ends would work, but not just axle end.

He either needs 2 CVs or no CVs.
Click to expand...

CV at both ends, as alluded to above. No way he can run single cardan joints at both ends at this point without major re-work.
 
I got my clutch in and gauges installed and drove it around. I was followed by an Apex policeman, when I stopped he pulled in behind me and checked it out. He said he liked the way it sounded, so Policeman like 5" straight pipes.
The 4BT boosts to about 15psi, it pyro is between 600-900 degrees and the water temp never goes above 180 degrees. I can't reach my oil pressure sender to get it hooked up.

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The Scout hauling my neighbors tractor to the shooting range. It did pretty good with it's maiden work voyage. I got the brake controller and electric fan hooked up. Air bags are really nice for leveling out that load. I had a lot of tongue weight so I just blew up the back bags a little.

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Here are some picks of the links, engine and rear driveline angle to the Dana 18.
If you have any questions, just ask.
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Just an update: My driveline seems great. No vibrations up to highway speed. I have no idea how fast that was because the speedo is off.

My power steering gear box just went out with 800 miles on it. I have to wait a few days to get warranty rebuilt one if Advanced Auto can find one! They switched suppliers and don't show one anywhere. I used the 4x2 one out of the 1967-1979 F100's-F350's.
 
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