'64 International Scout 80 Build

ncflintlock

ncflintlock

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2010
Location
Apex, NC
I started this project a while ago and I am about half way through it. I got a :poop:rusted out '64 Scout 80 pretty cheap and this was the plan was to have fun with my son building road legal offroad machine. It started out as:

Fix up the body and use the stock frame
I picked up a ScoutII with the Chrysler Nissan Diesel and spring/Axels

What it has turned into is:

Stock frame
stuff in a Cummins B4T
Tu-Flow Air Compressor with Air Start
4 Speed T19 mated to a DANA 18 with ATV mfg Overdrive
Front - Chevy Dana 44 with Ford outers (8 Lug)
Rear - Ford Dana 61 with 410 gears
Add 4 Link/3 Link setup with Air bags

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Now I read the forums and see people putting down air bags, don't link a Scout 80... but it's mine and you learn through doing not listening to couch potatoes.

I work on it when I can but hopefully I can finish it in time to take out on the beach this year:gitrdun:. So here it goes........
 
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Step One Body:
The Bed was almost completely gone so what do you do? Power shears!
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Now the original Scout 80 came with some with Dana Axels. The front is a DANA 27. For a small Axel it is cool! It has lockout hubs!
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I'm watching. I love the old corn binders. There's a nearly rust free 80 very near me that hasn't moved in at least 3 years. Too bad the owner is a recluse and never sells anything.
 
OK Now the engine/tranny/tcase....

The doner ScoutII I bought had a Chrysler Nissan Diesel. I wanted to use it but the injection pump was waxed up and it didn't have good compression in the middel 2 cylinders where water had come in the intake and collected.


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I looked into the rebuild and this engine was used in Tugs and a lot in Australia but I opted for a better choice. Even though the Cummins didn't come in a scout, how can you go wrong! I got the B4T and a Ford T19 4 speed out of a delivery truck.

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I wanted to use the Dana 18 out of the scout because it has a PTO port on the back you can use for adding an ATV mfg overdrive. for those lose highway RPM's.
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Do you know how to get 48 year old rusted stuck philips head bolts out...
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Here is the completed Tranny Tcase after getting the T19 to Dana 18 adapter, a Dana 18 rebuild and putting in a new mainshaft in the T19.

I got the ATV overdrive unit from Herm the overdrive guy. Herm rocks! He got me the stock Dana18 drive line brake unit as well.

The 4 stick shift are basically an anti-theft device. I can put 3 of them in neutral and basically dare some punk to steal it.
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Sounds like a fun project. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
 
Building a 66 as we speak. Good luck with it!:beer:
 

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Now the tech for the drivetrain:
With the T19 gears, 4.11 pumpkins and 37's I would be running 2600RPM at 70MPH. Herms .75:1 ATV mfg Overdrive brings that down to 1955, just about the sweet spot for a Cummins.

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Love this. Those old 'binders were nice but the bodylines were ahead of their (rust resistant) time.

Great driveline, but wondering on that 61? Isn't that van width? How's that line up with the front?
 
Actually, the D61 is 5" narrower than the '78 D44 Chevy/Ford potluck I have upfront. I had to order 2" spacers from Ballistic Fab for the back. I am running Dodge 6.5" backspacing rims to tuck everything back under.
Speaking of the spacers I need help. The studs are too short and when I tighten the lug nuts that hold the spacer to the drum, I still see half the threads in the nut. My studs are 2.25" overall, I need 2.75"-3" studs. I looked at my sons '97 F350 and his studs stick out so far it would make Mad Max happy. But my stud knurl is .606 and is 1/2-20 his knurl is .625 and 9/16-18. I checked and the 7/8's socket for the 9/16 stud fits in the hole but:
I think press fit studs need .002"-.009" of clearance and the closest drill I can find to 6.25 is 39/64=.6094" that would leave .0156" of interfearance, can I even get the new studs pressed in if I drill them out to 39/64th?
I looked in the Dorman catalog and cant find a 2.75"-3" 1/2-20 with .606" knurl anything.
 
4 Link Tech.

The wider axel aslo gave me a leg up on semi triangulation. What I mean by semi is the upper and lower links cross to help me out in the numbers.

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ncflintlock said:
...I checked and the 7/8's socket for the 9/16 stud fits in the hole but:
I think press fit studs need .002"-.009" of clearance and the closest drill I can find to 6.25 is 39/64=.6094" that would leave .0156" of interfearance, can I even get the new studs pressed in if I drill them out to 39/64th?
I looked in the Dorman catalog and cant find a 2.75"-3" 1/2-20 with .606" knurl anything.
Click to expand...

http://icrank.com/cgi-bin/pageman/pageout.cgi?path=/drillsizechart.htm&t=2

A 5/8 drill size = 0.625 in OR a 41/64 drill = 0.6406 in

May have to go to Grainger or similar to find it:

5/8
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/reduced-shank-drill-bits/machine-cutting-tools/machining/ecatalog/N-gyjZ1z0jsgl

41/64
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/reduced-shank-drill-bits/machine-cutting-tools/machining/ecatalog/N-gyjZ1z0c1x9
 
Here are some pics of the links.




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Now it's welding time.
 
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"A 5/8 drill size = 0.625 in OR a 41/64 drill = 0.6406 in "

I need .002"-.009" less than .625 or my studs will fall out of the drum.
 
this thing is awesome man. I am a big fan of scouts as well as diesels.
 
My son keep teasing me because I won't cut the shifter down that came out of the delivery truck. Obviously he is not in tune with the "Rat Fink"!
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My son put a tack down all the links but he was having hesitations on doing all the welding because he has no formal training. I suck at welding so I had Stephen come over yesterday and he finished welding all the link mounts on the front axel. Just the frame and rear axel to go!
Stephen went through the Wake Tech welding program and is pretty good. He would like to work in a shop that does this stuff so if you know of an opening, let me know!
 
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