66 Coyote swap turbo!

Also weld through primer is a thing.
 
BigSouth said:
Not telling anybody what to do, but I personally think it needs it.
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no problem man, I'm more than happy to take advise on work for customer projects. I'll admit I don't always (or never lol) take advise on my own rig but I try to be humble and learn anything I can when working on other people's stuff. Thanks
 
Ron said:
Side note. Are you planning on filling in the stitches on the tower delete plates?
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is this necessary? I'm not against doing it if needed, just figured it was pointless to weld that entire joint other than for aesthetics, but I'm here asking so to not seem like I know everything (or anything haha)
 
marty79 said:
is this necessary? I'm not against doing it if needed, just figured it was pointless to weld that entire joint other than for aesthetics, but I'm here asking so to not seem like I know everything (or anything haha)
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I’m not a welding or fab expert so I’d defer to those guys. I just know that is a very high dynamic load spot and I’d think a continuous weld would be stronger.
But there are others better suited to answer that than I. I only asked because it jumped out visually to me.
 
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Ron said:
I’m not a welding or fab expert so I’d defer to those guys. I just know that is a very high dynamic load spot and I’d think a continuous weld would be stronger.
But there are others better suited to answer that than I. I only asked because it jumped out visually to me.
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yes and no depending on execution and the load like mentioned. The reason unibody seams are not welded continuous are two fold.
Numero Uno reason is most definitely cost.
Numero Dos leads to your reasoning. A contious weld is very rigid, more so when the weld and material are stronger and thicker then the base material. Any flex of the area is tranfered directly to the seam. Bending forces confined to this long "fracture line" (my words) open up in structural failure. Hence well designed members held in place by resistance spot welds. The weld being a tie in and the members being designed to reinforce each other.

My personal choice would be spot welds that retain a factory type appearance and or a combination of Silicon Braze Tig. The Silicon braze would be a great seal with much less heat input but should not be the relying bond due to lower tensile.

But we are not building a high end car here.........
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
yes and no depending on execution and the load like mentioned. The reason unibody seams are not welded continuous are two fold.
Numero Uno reason is most definitely cost.
Numero Dos leads to your reasoning. A contious weld is very rigid, more so when the weld and material are stronger and thicker then the base material. Any flex of the area is tranfered directly to the seam. Bending forces confined to this long "fracture line" (my words) open up in structural failure. Hence well designed members held in place by resistance spot welds. The weld being a tie in and the members being designed to reinforce each other.

My personal choice would be spot welds that retain a factory type appearance and or a combination of Silicon Braze Tig. The Silicon braze would be a great seal with much less heat input but should not be the relying bond due to lower tensile.

But we are not building a high end car here.........
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Well said sir! So I'm still not sure on the answer of leave it (seam sealer) or weld it up..
 
braxton357 said:
Leave it. The old sheetmetal will tear all the way around your haz if you weld it solid. Years of shitty xj bodies should have taught you that
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Well all mine remember had tons of plating and boat sides and such so I wouldn't know haha
 
Little more progress today, crossmember done
20230314_141932.jpg
20230314_141907.jpg
 
ghost said:
@WARRIORWELDING I would think that it would need at least some stitch welds spaced out?
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It appears to have had spot welds applied. If they are staggered and placed correctly these will exceed the strength of the parent material. I don't know these cars very well. I am baffled by the flat on flat nature of the panel all together. As it looks it was merely a tie in and way to smooth the original shock tower wheel well area removed for clearance. If that is the case lower in the chassis related to the engine cross member would be a reinforcement area. Most likely handled by the design of the motor mount. The high side should be braced and reinforced by a well place tie ins and relationship to the upper connectors, done in a way to distribute the load across the upper seam. The middle is just extra credit and keep the wheel well spray out.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
If that is the case lower in the chassis related to the engine cross member would be a reinforcement area. Most likely handled by the design of the motor mount.
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oh believe me that area is def "reionforced". The new crossmember is straight BEEF!! "frame" rails are plated front to back and on the sides along with Torque boxes and tied into the rockers.
I'm with you, I don't know fast cars and body twisting and all that ...but a friend of this customer has a 1300hp foxbody and he's the one who told me to do the rocker tie ins the way I did cause he has exact "bought" kit like it on his mustang. As far as the rest of what I've beefed up/modified, that was the same input from him...of course 10g plate is little overkill but eh, few hundred pounds ain't gonna hurt 850hp in this little lightweight pony...plus he gave permission to use that thick of steel lol
 
Jody Treadway said:
Genuine question since some more smarter than I folks have chimed in.
Wouldn't it greatly benefit the "strut tower" brace if it captured both the top and side of the fender rail?
Picture a "7" on each end here:
View attachment 393913
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Fair question and I'm not gonna act like i know the answer so ill wait myself.
 
I wanna see shots of the a-arm suspension now that I have looked over the strut tower pictures again. The spring coil over package must be fairly small.

Edit: reminds me of some older Fat Mans fabricated Mustang Two type swaps I have welded in other hot rod before to run that style rack and pinion and gain IFS.
 
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jeepinmatt said:
I'll be honest, a piece of 1"x1"x1/8" wall square or round tube going straight across would be SIGNIFICANTLY stronger than this part you have fabbed and installed.
View attachment 393915
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Something like this?

www.globalwest.net

1964, 1965, 1966 Mustang Adjustable Monte Carlo Bar (with a bend over the distributor for clearance) # TS-8

Global West Suspension sells Monte Carlo Bar (with a bend over the distributor for clearance) for the 1964, 1965, and 1966 Mustang. All of our Monte Carlo bars feature right and left-hand rod ends with jam-nuts. The length is adjusted by threading the rod ends in or out. Once the brackets are...
www.globalwest.net
 
Ron said:
Something like this?

www.globalwest.net

1964, 1965, 1966 Mustang Adjustable Monte Carlo Bar (with a bend over the distributor for clearance) # TS-8

Global West Suspension sells Monte Carlo Bar (with a bend over the distributor for clearance) for the 1964, 1965, and 1966 Mustang. All of our Monte Carlo bars feature right and left-hand rod ends with jam-nuts. The length is adjusted by threading the rod ends in or out. Once the brackets are...
www.globalwest.net
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A straight piece of toob with a thin wall would be stronger and stiffer than that even, but yes, that would also be a lot better.
 
jeepinmatt said:
A straight piece of toob with a thin wall would be stronger and stiffer than that even, but yes, that would also be a lot better.
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The bend is to clear an old school front mount dizzy.
Here is your straight version
www.globalwest.net

1964, 1965, 1966, Mustang Monte Carlo Bar (Straight Bar) # TS-6

Global West Suspension sells Monte Carlo Bars (Straight) for the 1964, 1965, and 1966 Mustang. All of our Monte Carlo bars feature right and left-hand rod ends with jam-nuts. The length is adjusted by threading the rod ends in or out. Once the brackets are attached to the fenders, they will not...
www.globalwest.net

The more Im thinking about this though...and I dont know what kit hes using - but the front cross member/cradle may carry all of the load if you can keep the front frame rail tails from ripping off the floor pans
 
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