66 Coyote swap turbo!

Ron said:
Looks good, sir!

FYI the trans tunnels on those unibody cars are the skeletal system that ties everything together. Make sure you have good contact and tie ins to your new tunnel. Ive seen some gnarly twist with very minimal tunnel notching.
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Yessir will do. And thank you for the compliment on it. Everyone on Facebook loves it and you too, I guess I'm too hard on myself for it not being better/cooler looking?!idk
 
marty79 said:
Yessir will do. And thank you for the compliment on it. Everyone on Facebook loves it and you too, I guess I'm too hard on myself for it not being better/cooler looking?!idk
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To me the genius in a restomod is making it functional and making someone stop and ask - that is aftermarket, right?
 
orange150 said:
Would the sub frame connectors coupled with an x brace (like the Mike Maier kit) fix that?
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I’m not sure how he’d ever clear the Maier x under that trans.
It’s hard under a t5
 
Ron said:
I’m not sure how he’d ever clear the Maier x under that trans.
It’s hard under a t5
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Yeah this 10spd is massive lol
 
BRUISER said:
is it not square and symmetrical? or is it the angle of the pic/
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The trans doesn't look centered on the factory tunnel. My guess is it is moved to the pass side to help make room for the gas pedal.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
The trans doesn't look centered on the factory tunnel. My guess is it is moved to the pass side to help make room for the gas pedal.
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Possibly that AND most motors are offset to the passenger's side a little to give some more room for the steering shaft and all that jazz. Usually ½ to ¾ of an inch or so. With as wide as a Coyote is, this is probably the case as well.
 
Frame stiffening complete, tied in to rockers as he wanted me to. Once I get crossmember done, that'll tie it all together to the tunnel. There shouldn't be any twisting of this pony with all this front to rear tie ins. Can't wait to get onto shock tower braces and to continue with tunnel/ console work.
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Ah, there it is...
 
Shock tower brace is made.
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braxton357 said:
My dude, if you're going to use gloss black and rusty steel, invest in a sandblast pot. But also, that thing is going to be slapping the intake plenum driving down the road.
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Its just primer, he's going to get it sand blasted and powder coated. And its not S low as it seems, about an inch off intake
 
BigSouth said:
Are there some spines on the bottom that we’re not seeing? Flat bar isn’t usually very rigid.
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I could cut some if you say it needs it. I was thinking 10g with this would be enough but I'm open to suggestions
 
Side note. Are you planning on filling in the stitches on the tower delete plates?
 
Ron said:
Side note. Are you planning on filling in the stitches on the tower delete plates?
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He was going to use seam sealer..or do I need to weld em solid?
 
marty79 said:
Is that a yes I need the vertical pieces underneath?
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From my recent experience with my engine skid brace on my buggy, I’d vote yes to some vertical spines to give that brace some rigidity. Not telling anybody what to do, but I personally think it needs it.
“Potato Chip”
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Mo better!
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marty79 said:
Is that a yes I need the vertical pieces underneath?
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How easy is it for you to bend any flat bar flat? Now turn it on edge.
Those braces would have been a perfect opportunity to bend a tapered channel and then dimple die a few well placed drainage holes for reinforcement.
 
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