'82 Jeep Scrambler Daily Driver

I just did an ez wire harness on an older 5. It's not that bad. It will be easier on the newer stuff due to the gm column. The ez wire kit is geared to that style and has the right plugs to make it work
 
All the MTS cables are in, things should start falling into place in the coming days for the heater and dash.

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Heater box is done.
It wasn’t too bad, the most time consuming part, aside from cleaning and painting, was cutting all the foam.
Another pain is that the heater diversion door has the rubber seals cast to fit and no one makes a new one, so I did my best to repair it with silicone.
I posted this in the random pics thread, but you do have to enlarge the factory heater fan hole to accommodate the larger blazer motor. Pretty easy to do using two hole saws together.

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Oh forgot to add. You can kind of see in the last picture, but I caved and started spraying spots on the body where it’s gotten scratched down to the bare metal. I hate having random splotches of black primer but it’s better than rust.

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willness33 said:
This may have been posted or asked already but what kind of seats do you have in there?
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Front and rear are Bestop. They're decent. The recline function on the fronts is a little subpar, it's a big knob you turn, which is difficult. And the plastic has already deteriorated and crumbled on one of them. But they hold their position really well. They're also pretty comfortable and fit me well, but I'm a skinny dude.
The rear is a fold and tumble, which is fine, but it doesn't have any provision to keep it held up when it's tumbled. So you need to figure something out for that if you plan to use that function.
 
orange150 said:
@skyhighZJ and @BigSouth both recommended spraying that leading edge where the doors and top sit with a more durable finish, something like an undercoating, which will be black. So I'm not too concerned about it, I just know I won't get to that any time soon.
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I was going to recommend that also. If you are putting soft top rails on it or a ful hardtop, I would just bedline the top edge all the way around the tub, to help with abrasion/wearing of the paint. You can get bedliner that is color matched, if you dont want the black.
 
Been driving around and noticed my brakes are dragging a little. I was hoping it was out of adjustment E brake but unfortunately I don't think it is.
I gave the fronts the free spin check and they make about one revolution before coming to a halt, you can hear the pads dragging on the rotors. I cracked the bleed screws and there wasn't a sudden burst, but a definite stream of fluid coming out.

First thing I checked is the return spring for the brake pedal and noticed there isn't one at all, so I'm going to try to find one at Ace and see if that is all it is. I'm really hoping I don't have to pull the MC or hydroboost back off.
 
Went back and re-read my posts from the hydroboost install. I said this little nugget in post #255:

orange150 said:
One thing though, as you can see in the last image the GM pushrod uses a spring to help push the cylinder back. I did NOT use that, as the CJ pushrod has a large flat base making the spring much too stiff. I'm a little concerned right now that might cause an issue. But I'll find out on my first test drive :)
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Hopefully that won't turn around to bite me.
 
orange150 said:
I’m a Ford guy at heart, so when I was browsing the pick a part for some hydroboost stuff and saw this sitting in a ‘97 F350. I had to have it.
This won’t happen anytime soon, but it was running so it should “drop in” and run if I convert it to carb (Sniper EFI)

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Who goes to the junkyard and just happens to come with an engine?lol I usually just score small parts.
 
willness33 said:
Who goes to the junkyard and just happens to come with an engine?lol I usually just score small parts.
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I mean. When you’re walking through and see an OBS Ford with two tail pipes you get curious if it has a 351. And when it does you inquire about it, then when they tell the very fair price you buy it.

I feel like this is all very reasonable. Haha.

Plus I’ve been wanting to swap in a 351 for a while now, and the later model ones are typically the ones to get.
 
Got the brakes, hopefully, figured out now.
Turns out you do need that spring and clip that I mentioned in post 255... imagine that. Of course I couldn't find the parts that I got from the salvage yard, I'm sure they got lost in the move, so I actually found a company that sells the full pushrod and return spring kit.
www.powerbrakes.com They sell a ton of hydroboost stuff and if you buy a hydroboost unit from them they include the pushrod and spring kit, unlike every other parts house. They also sell hose kits, which I think I'm going to pick up after a while.

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Another thing that was bugging me was how high the brake pedal was, due to how far the snout of the hydroboost unit stuck into the cab. WFO makes a plate that is a taller than the PartsMike plate that I originally bought; it also has the locator tab milled into it, again, unlike the PartsMike plate. I now have a lot more room for pedal adjustment with my adjustable pushrod.

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Driving home from work today and had some errands to run in a part of town with a lot of stop lights. About halfway home it started idling like crap.

I’m thinking I either have a vacuum leak or fuel boiling, but I doubt it’s a fuel issue.

After dinner I cranked it up and it was still idling bad, I turned one of the idle screws out and the idle got better, so I’m thinking vacuum. I’m going to dig in more tomorrow morning. Uugghh
 
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