86 4Runner build

Put some gauges in to keep an eye on the 22RE. Oil pressure at idle sucks (500rpm/5-10psi) need to rise the idle back up a little. But under throttle shes kicks out good pressure 40-65.
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Finally got a tailgate, got it painted and wired today. Also within the last week tied up the lspv bar, best thing ive done to the brakes yet. Cut the drivers side ubolts down. I also got new wheels the ally ones wallowed out so i got some steel 15x10, while i was at it repacked the front wheel bearings and painted the lock in/out hub.
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yoder519 said:
nice work on the runner. that paint makes its look brand new.
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Thanks, it did change the look alot.
No real changes considering i'm a broke college student. Messed around today
Before
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After
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IFS really does suck but that will change eventually.
 
Did some work today, finally had time to investigate why the damn thing never stays warm. So got a new tstat from napa and dug in, pulled the housing off and nothing. This explains alot, now she heats up and stays there, road temp stays right around 170-175. Also put turn signals on the front last week so I could get inspected.
 
It isn't bad but save money for a locker, only time it sucked was making tight turns. I took mine out a while back due to driving so much.
 
Redneck92 said:
It isn't bad but save money for a locker, only time it sucked was making tight turns. I took mine out a while back due to driving so much.
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My Mini truck was welded front and rear during its first life. The only time the truck got squirrely was in the rain in tight turns like an intersection, kinda like drifting on ice. It was a dd for about 3 years 4 years. Not the best idea but it worked for me.

A locker will surprise you when it engages and disengages.
 
Update: So when you go from driving maybe 50-60 miles a week to 250ish anything that can give you problems will. Over the past month or so I've change a pinion seal, wheel bearings, timing cover gasket, oil pan gasket, rear axle seal, valve cover gasket, few hoses and an air filter. Needless to say been working on it more than driving. Still have the exhaust to fix which is about to fall off.:shaking: Anyways finally got around to do some cleaing on the inside. Took the box out and roll bar.

Also had an idea thats being forced on me a little. My buddies doing a 302 swap in his pickup and is really makin me want to swap in a v8. I have a tbi 305 thats runs good plus a 700r4 just wanting to get some thoughts on this. The swap seems farly easy just need to gather up some more parts.
 
Swapped an 88 5.0 HO and matching AOD transmission into my 85 sr5 about 3.5 years ago now. V8 automatic overdrive is so much nicer to daily drive. Highway gas mileage is about the same as I was getting with 33s and a tired 22re 5 speed 4.10 gear combo. Expecting the 4.88 gears to help out a bit. The adapter to the toyota gear driven tcase is the only expensive part. Buddy and I built or pieced together everything over a years time. The adapter, valve cover and oil pan gaskets, and a shifter cable are the only new parts I bought. Also on the college budget at that time.
 
Yeah a buddy of mine is bout to swap in a 302/c4/Yota t-case in his pickup and the guy he bought from said he got bout 20. I'm just tired of being in the slow lane all the time with no power. I also thought about doing a 241 with ate instead of the Yota t-case just to make it easier to find suitable axles (dsd). Thinking about going d44 front and d60 or 14b sf rear just all depends and what's the cheapest.
 
Re-did the exh the other day because I had to. The pipe had split right after the collecter:flipoff: . Took it off and welded it back up and in the procees go rid of my low hanging side exit no muffler and cat set up. In place I put a flowmaster and left the cat off.
Mock up
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Halfway through when I was welding the mig took a shit and the only other welder we had was a 220 arc. So I had my buddy weld it up since I can't arc weld.
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It sounds a whole lot better and not there is no rattles and it's not visble from the side. Still need to make a more permanent hanger for the muffler. Hung up with some wire right now. I'm also gonna run the rest of it out the back or side not sure which yet.
 
Nice build you got going! As far as the engine swap, I'm a fan of keeping it yota... but that's just me :rolleyes:

Gears would be well worth the money, there's a guy here in concord that can do it for $650-$950, that's labor and parts (gears/full bearing kit) depending on which gear type you want to go with. He set mine up and does good work.
 
alove0750 said:
Nice build you got going! As far as the engine swap, I'm a fan of keeping it yota... but that's just me :rolleyes:

Gears would be well worth the money, there's a guy here in concord that can do it for $650-$950, that's labor and parts (gears/full bearing kit) depending on which gear type you want to go with. He set mine up and does good work.
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Yeah I have decided to keep it all yota and theres really no need since I only want 40's:D Also who is this guy and is that frt and rear or just one of them?
 
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New shocks finally. These are a world of difference. Still need to cut off the front bumpstop to put the fronts on so they don't end up all dented like the last ones.
 
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Here's the old shocks as you can tell the rears are two different.

Finally got to cut the front bumpstops off. Now I actually have shock clearance. I might un crank the t-bars this week if I have a chance to get it off the upper bumpstop.
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