90's throw back.....Manche build

ahhhh I dunno...looks too comfortable!:D
 
Looking great Matt! Sorry to hear about angels dad. Btw my lil ass would fit nice I'm there!


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jeepn-jason said:
Looking great Matt! Sorry to hear about angels dad. Btw my lil ass would fit nice I'm there!


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Thanks buddy.


Yes, you will be able to reach the pedals in this one....[emoji39]

Matt
 
I now have all the sheet metal trimmed out of the cab and ready for the cage work. Probably lost 50# or more. I've got a few tubes in place, may or may not be their final resting place. Also got a bedside trimmed up with a reverse bob; trimmed from the front of the bed and opened up the rear of the wheel opening. It was time to get a mental picture of all the skins, to pull some measurements for the back half tubing. Next will be the rub rail/nerf bars so that I can attach the cab to the chassis, these will be 1.75/.120 tubing lined with solid 1.5" 7075, (the bumpers will get the same treatment). The roof will get cut off to do full welding on the cage.

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Things are a little random. It takes me some time to get a real good mental picture of how I want things to end up. I think I've finally had my ahaa moment and made some good decisions on the final design. More to come..

Matt
 
Got started on the sliders today. 1.75 .120 wall slugged with 1.5 7075 aluminum for bash protection. Put a slight curve in it to match the taper of the cab. Cut the rocker for the step. Played with a couple different attachment ideas.

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Matt
 
mcutler said:
Got started on the sliders today. 1.75 .120 wall slugged with 1.5 7075 aluminum for bash protection.

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Another material worth considering for bash protection is Concrete. It's 30-70% lighter than aluminum, and a lot cheaper. But it doesn't add strength to the overall link as well as the aluminum does. Anyway, just my outside the box idea that I felt compelled to share.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Another material worth considering for bash protection is Concrete. It's 30-70% lighter than aluminum, and a lot cheaper. But it doesn't add strength to the overall link as well as the aluminum does. Anyway, just my outside the box idea that I felt compelled to share.
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Expanding foam is where its at!!!!
 
snappy said:
Dont use too much at one time it will distort the sheet metal..... Dont ask me how i know.
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I've only used it for its intended purpose. How water proof/moisture barrier is it? Dent resistance? Flammable after curing? Wonder if body seam sealer would bond to it?

Matt
 
jeepinmatt said:
Yeah, but I'm being serious. Concrete really is much lighter than aluminum and has really good compressive stress properties compared to most flowable materials.
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I may do this for the bumpers. Cheaper and lighter is always good....

Don't suppose it would split the tube during the curing process like freezing water does to lesser built trailers?...(my cage trailer gate for example...)

Matt
 
Careful with the expandable foams. Many are very flammable once cured. I love when people "restore" their classic car by filling rust holes with expandable foam and bondoing over it.
 
NC-V said:
Careful with the expandable foams. Many are very flammable once cured. I love when people "restore" their classic car by filling rust holes with expandable foam and bondoing over it.
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That was the reason for my question above.

I checked out their site. They also have a fire barrier rated foam as well. (Great stuff brand)

Matt
 
Dang! mcutler, you're killing it! Very nice work on the tube work of the roll cage.
 
mcutler said:
I may do this for the bumpers. Cheaper and lighter is always good....

Don't suppose it would split the tube during the curing process like freezing water does to lesser built trailers?...(my cage trailer gate for example...)

Matt
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Actually, its the opposite. Concrete shrinks as it cures. And its fairly brittle. if you could weld some rebar nipples in a few places on the inside, it would add tremendous strength (plus you get to say you have rebar nipples :eek::lol:). The keys to controlling shrinkage are slow curing (prevent water evaporating too quickly) and using as little water as possible. Also, there are additives and mixtures available to help, but I don't know any of the details about that stuff or how well it works.
 
Ok so you cut the unibody out then built a frame then welded the cab to it? Therefore making another unibody? I want to see this when it's done. Hell I'd love to talk you into a trip to Harlan and the NAXJA Crawl when you are done. Lot of MJ guys over there would like this.
 
ghost said:
Ok so you cut the unibody out then built a frame then welded the cab to it? Therefore making another unibody? I want to see this when it's done. Hell I'd love to talk you into a trip to Harlan and the NAXJA Crawl when you are done. Lot of MJ guys over there would like this.
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Exactly right...

I'm always game for Harlan, count me in.

Matt
 
mcutler said:
Exactly right...

I'm always game for Harlan, count me in.

Matt
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I'm leaving in a week. We always have the Crawl around July 4th. I've been attending the NAXJA Crawl every summer sense 2002. Back then it was in Tellico. Been going to Harlan every summer sense 2010.
 
Non shrink grout would accomplish what Matt is talking about, with no shrinkage and a higher PSI than regular concrete.

As for the foam, a lot of it can't be painted, is not UV stable and will absorb and hold water and actually promote rust.


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