Alternator/Welder

I haven't run into any problems if it is turning backwards. The setup works good for trail repairs and some lite duty stuff around the house.With my limited room,this was the best location for the unit to mount and be out of the way.
 
For those who already have this thing, how careful do you need to be about cutting off the field input switch while not actually welding?

Do you have enough time to change out a rod without cutting off the alt?

Or would it be safer to have a switch right on the stinger?

I'm under the impression, that turning on the field just before striking the arc, and cutting it right off when breaking the arc will extend the life of the diodes.

Also I bought a dimmer switch to control the field input.

It's kind of a small plastic box with a slide bar on it.

Rated for 600V, but only 300W. Hoping it will be sufficient.
 
the field control doesn't see the full load only what the field coil is drawing. I wouldn't worry about cutting it on/off all the time only to make sure your components are sized properly to handle the load of welding. (look how small the field terminal usually is, 16ga wire at most)

As far as cutting the field off to put a new rod in the stinger. I'm not sure why, any old buzz box is still running when you do that. Just don't stand in water (rusty welds) and don't touch anything...
 
I've had mine to accidently get switched on and be on for days or even weeks with no problems.If there isn't a reason to put out any amperage,it won't.
 
the field control doesn't see the full load only what the field coil is drawing. I wouldn't worry about cutting it on/off all the time only to make sure your components are sized properly to handle the load of welding. (look how small the field terminal usually is, 16ga wire at most)

As far as cutting the field off to put a new rod in the stinger. I'm not sure why, any old buzz box is still running when you do that. Just don't stand in water (rusty welds) and don't touch anything...

The guy who rewired this thing said, when the field is energized it will produce voltage. As it builds up in there, it can get to a point where it will start to cook the diodes.

Keep in mind, that this is not an alternator like premier makes.
I'm not sure what steps they take when building the alts that come in their kits. They may put a safety switch inside there somehow.

This thing I have was rewired much like the conversion you see on all the boards like pirate.

They take a Delco-Remy CS144 & remove the regulator, & re-route the current somehow.
It ends up being just like a Ford alternator with no internal voltage regulator.

EDIT; did I ever tell the story about the time I was running Air Carbon Arc on an aircraft carrier & unknowingly walked into ankle deep water?
I never did get flight clearance from the tower, but luckily the LZ was soft enough during my landing! They said I was passed out for 15 minutes & they all thought I wasn't gonna make it.


I've had mine to accidently get switched on and be on for days or even weeks with no problems.If there isn't a reason to put out any amperage,it won't.

What type of alternator are you running, one from a company that makes these onboard systems, or one that wasn't designed to actually be a welder?

EDIT; I went back & saw in post #14, that you built your. What did you start with, A delco?
 
voltage and current...different story...

it can produce voltage....but without a draw there is no (little) current flow.

Furthermore if the vehicle isnt running (ie the alternator isnt spinning) energizing the exciter doesnt do much...will it shorten the life, yeah. Will it ended it immediately, no.

How much shorter tough to tell.

BTW who did you talk to Steve? Brother? Gene?
 
EDIT; I went back & saw in post #14, that you built your. What did you start with, A delco?
yea,just a plain ole chevy alt. from autozone.It was less than 30 dollars for a 62 amp unit.Now this will work for trail repairs.I'm gonna upgrade it to 100 amps by getting a kit.That will run roughly 50 dollars.I'm needing to do this since running the alt. up to high rpm's to really burn,it's in the danger zone for my flathead engine.I need to google and see if I can get a smaller pulley to underdrive it.All in all,it was the best upgrade to do for my rig to do trail support duty.It's quick set up and lite weight makes it a win win.

The readywelder was an outstanding unit.I liked it alot.The 2 disavantages I found tho was the size of the gun getting into tight spots,and needing to scrounge up 2 batteries or carrying the extra one.If my M38 was still 24 volt,the battery part wouldn't have been a problem.
 
voltage and current...different story...

it can produce voltage....but without a draw there is no (little) current flow.

Furthermore if the vehicle isnt running (ie the alternator isnt spinning) energizing the exciter doesnt do much...will it shorten the life, yeah. Will it ended it immediately, no.

How much shorter tough to tell.

BTW who did you talk to Steve? Brother? Gene?

It was Steve, who found the big boy under the counter. I think he also re-wired it.

My question was more about energizing the field (while alt is spinning) with no load on the outputs.

I have a bad memory, & can never remember which works what way, when it comes to voltage/current/amperage questions. Always been bad remembering names too.


yea,just a plain ole chevy alt. from autozone.It was less than 30 dollars for a 62 amp unit.Now this will work for trail repairs.I'm gonna upgrade it to 100 amps by getting a kit.That will run roughly 50 dollars.I'm needing to do this since running the alt. up to high rpm's to really burn,it's in the danger zone for my flathead engine.I need to google and see if I can get a smaller pulley to underdrive it.All in all,it was the best upgrade to do for my rig to do trail support duty.It's quick set up and lite weight makes it a win win.
The readywelder was an outstanding unit.I liked it alot.The 2 disavantages I found tho was the size of the gun getting into tight spots,and needing to scrounge up 2 batteries or carrying the extra one.If my M38 was still 24 volt,the battery part wouldn't have been a problem.

Yeah now see I did pick up a 60 amp Ford alt at the U-pull-it.
It was off an "84" I6 van. So it should be externally regulated.

I'm thinking about driving it with a 5 horse robin motor.

Make a little cart for it, & use it for tacking junk together.
What are the sizes of wire you can run with those relatively low amps?
 
the bigger the better on the cables...help keep the most amps running down stream.

I have some #2 cables set up for it. Ought to be plenty.

The York a/c & double pulley steering pump are en-route. Should be here in a day or two. Once I get the alt & OBA cobbled on there, I'll start in on the monster!:huggy:
 
UPDATE; WELDZILLA LIVES!!!:huggy::flipoff2::fuck-you::Rockon:
I was welding with 1/8" E-6011 yesterday, @ 2500 rpms.
Need a bigger drive pulley, to increase alt rpm's without engine rpm's being so high. I may use the leftover crank pulley.
Then it will just need to idle.:bounce2::beer:

Also need a D.C. rheostat, as the A.C. one from Lowe's didn't work.

I'm now thinking headlight dimmer.
 
For the photo-curious.

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if you drive down the street, that thing is going to take a beating....
 
if you drive down the street, that thing is going to take a beating....

Actually, it would ride pretty well on the road, except for the no hood thing. (I often drive around with the hood off though)

It's the offroad that worries me, that's why I'm only going to mount it up for welding. It will stay home most of the time & ride in some sort of box, when wheeling.:huggy:
 
any one know if this will work with a older style ford alt.?
 
any one know if this will work with a older style ford alt.?

Yes, the external regulator (large frame) type.

If you can find a 100+ amp unit, you won't need to take it to the alt dude for amp increase work.

This alt could be left in place, (it's light enough) removing only the belt & disconnecting the field wire until ready to weld again.

The field wire, is what controls the output. Use a headlight dimmer to turn the input down, thus decreasing the output.

The Batt. terminal on the alt is your (+) cable or stinger.

The alt case is the ground clamp. This mode is the only way you can weld on your own vehicle, if you switch the leads you'll fry some electrical components in your rig.

The alt needs to be separate from the vehicle alt, so you'll have two on board. The weld-alt. pulley should be small, & the one that drives it should be as large as you can make it.

Just tonight, I bolted a crankshaft pulley to the steering pump's dual pulley covering the small one. Went from 2" to like 5" or 6"
 
i read either on this thread or the other one that u run straight polarity if welding anything not ur truck and reverse it if u was workin on ur truck...
 
You're never going to use it if you don't at least keep it mounted to the engine. :flipoff2:
yep,need to keep it ready to go.Trust me,it will get used more than you think.

I have mine solid mounted on what was the deck for the battery box to sit on.I wrap the leads around it and keep a plastic battery box over it as a cover.
 
I would definately try to keep it mounted, then if you make a little box to house a switch to excite the field wire, your rheostat, and you could put a 110 outlet with a voltmeter so you can dial up 110 and run a drill, grinder, light, as long as it's brushed, it'll run it.
 
Is there a list of vehicles somewhere that tells which models or engines have the alternators you would need? I've wanted to do this mod in my truck for years but I can never really understand which one to get. I've always heard you need the external regulated kind andnow I see this Dixie mod that changes that.
edit: I thought I remembered an old alternator in my shop and sure enough it was one of the those Delco Remy kind. I modded it and it's ready for use. I checked the amps too......... 55 :lol:

I'll use it as a template and go ahead and install brackets and whatnot. Then I'll get a more powerful one. Dumb question... if it's stamped 55A will it do more than that or is that "at idle"?
 
i read either on this thread or the other one that u run straight polarity if welding anything not ur truck and reverse it if u was workin on ur truck...
Reverse polarity stinger = (+) is the only way to weld on your own truck. Either way for other trucks, or if you move your work off the truck. Since my vise mounts to my front upper hitch receiver, I'll be using DCRP most of the time. DCSP is really good for fast fill, but penetration suffers.
You're never going to use it if you don't at least keep it mounted to the engine. :flipoff2:
Naw, takes about 1.5 minutes to mount it up. Without the hood, I could leave it mounted for just about anything but a jump. (airborne jeep)
yep,need to keep it ready to go.Trust me,it will get used more than you think.
I have mine solid mounted on what was the deck for the battery box to sit on.I wrap the leads around it and keep a plastic battery box over it as a cover.
Two bolts, & the excite wire & I'm in business.
I would definately try to keep it mounted, then if you make a little box to house a switch to excite the field wire, your rheostat, and you could put a 110 outlet with a voltmeter so you can dial up 110 and run a drill, grinder, light, as long as it's brushed, it'll run it.
I'm only gonna do that when I can afford the stuff from Napa,
that is basically an inverter that runs of the weld-alt.
Is there a list of vehicles somewhere that tells which models or engines have the alternators you would need? I've wanted to do this mod in my truck for years but I can never really understand which one to get. I've always heard you need the external regulated kind andnow I see this Dixie mod that changes that.
edit: I thought I remembered an old alternator in my shop and sure enough it was one of the those Delco Remy kind. I modded it and it's ready for use. I checked the amps too......... 55 :lol:
I'll use it as a template and go ahead and install brackets and whatnot. Then I'll get a more powerful one. Dumb question... if it's stamped 55A will it do more than that or is that "at idle"?
I know you dude ! Your the guy who has a somewhat rumpled "General Lee" cheokee.
Hope that didn't hurt too bad!
Any large frame Ford alt that's pre-1984, should do it. You should try to get the 100+ amps deal though.
I have a Delco-Remy CS144 as my vehicle alt. Got it from a junkyard Cadillac. It's 140 amps, & would make a nice welder. You do have to do the internal changes to remove the regulator.
The big Ford alt I mentioned is pretty much ready to use as is.

To answer your question about the 55 amp alt, it will run 1/16" wire from what I hear.
I ended up buying a 60 amp Ford alt from the junkyard by accident, & am thinking about putting it in the minivan just for kicks.
I got the belt tonight to go with the larger crank pulley. I still need one size tighter belt though. this one is workable, but slips a little under full load.
I got one junkyard tube door together tonight, before the rain came at sunset.
Works well with the bigger pulley & may not need a dimmer, to control the excite field input. I was welding with 1/8" E-7018, @ 1500 rpms. I could go up or down the engine speed to use other diameter wire.
Glad to see it was worth the effort, time , & $$$.
I'm psyched up about the whole deal, & will get the OBA up & running right after the tube doors are ready. :bounce2::huggy::driver::beer:
 
After fabbing my junkyard tube doors yesterday, I removed the welder & found an ammo can (Fat 50) that it (just) fits inside of perfectly. I'll make an angle iron frame & mount in in the bed, near the tailgate for wheeling trips.

I'll get another ammo can for the cables & such.

I was pleased with the sound the arc makes.

It's kind of like humming while whistling, & sounds tough as nails. Smooth too!:beer:
 
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