Alternator/Welder

my drive pulley is the double pulley on the engine mounted alt. so smaller on the welder is the best I can do with my set up.Hopefully by increasing my amperage,it will help me not run so hard.
 
ord.sgt.26NC said:
my drive pulley is the double pulley on the engine mounted alt. so smaller on the welder is the best I can do with my set up.Hopefully by increasing my amperage,it will help me not run so hard.
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Go to a local alternator shop. They may have the smaller pulley for your weldernator. Also ask them if they have a "big-n-little" dual pulley for your charging alternator.

Then you can overdrive the welder.
 
yea,the big pulley would need to be the one closest to the body.The charging alt. is driven by the outward groove.The belt stays around the charging alt.body when not in use.
 
ord.sgt.26NC said:
yea,the big pulley would need to be the one closest to the body.The charging alt. is driven by the outward groove.The belt stays around the charging alt.body when not in use.
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So your saying you'd need to remove the charging belt, to remove the welding belt?
Big pulley would be closest to the charging alt?

That would be extra work, for sure.

Any way to remove the welding belt & drape it over the back of the charging alt, then tying it off so it doesn't get tangled in the other moving belts?
 
that is what I do.when not in use,it drapes around the charging and tied to the adj. arm with zip ties to keep out of harms way.The welder is kept mounted with the leads rolled over the top,a battery box slipped over it for semi protection and a cleaner look.
 
Here are the pics.
First, you take out the 3 screws and split the case.
ai232.photobucket.com_albums_ee46_orangecherokee_Welder_DSCN0059.jpg

ai232.photobucket.com_albums_ee46_orangecherokee_Welder_DSCN0060.jpg

Next you must unsolder the 3 leads to the bridge.
ai232.photobucket.com_albums_ee46_orangecherokee_Welder_DSCN0061.jpg

ai232.photobucket.com_albums_ee46_orangecherokee_Welder_DSCN0062.jpg

ai232.photobucket.com_albums_ee46_orangecherokee_Welder_DSCN0063.jpg

ai232.photobucket.com_albums_ee46_orangecherokee_Welder_DSCN0064.jpg
 
Now, you can pull the windings out.
ai232.photobucket.com_albums_ee46_orangecherokee_Welder_DSCN0065.jpg

and this what you're left with (I went ahead and put the brushes back in and held them in place with a toothpick. This works better than a drill bit since it won't cut into the carbon).
ai232.photobucket.com_albums_ee46_orangecherokee_Welder_DSCN0068.jpg

The large plastic disk snaps into the case and the only way I could get it out was by cutting the plastic ends sticking out on the other side and prying it out. I guess I'll have to epoxy that back in once I'm finished. As of right now, I'm not sure if it's necessary.

ai232.photobucket.com_albums_ee46_orangecherokee_Welder_DSCN0069.jpg


The last two steps are to unsolder the circuit board assembly and solder a 14-gauge wire to the field armature at the brush. This is where I need some ID help. Here is a pic of what I think is the only soldered connection for the circuit board assembly.

ai232.photobucket.com_albums_ee46_orangecherokee_Welder_DSCN0073.jpg


I'm assuming you unsolder this and then solder on the wire to the brush assembly. Does anyone know if this is all it takes to separate the circuit board assembly? Also, how do I know which is the positive brush?
 
Ok, I took the circuit board out. Solder the wire to the positive brush. Re-soldered the stator to the rectifier bridge and put it all back together. I put it in the Jeep. Turned on the power and it sparked at idle. I cranked up the rpms and it just kept sparking. It never really arc'd. The alternator got hot, real hot. I didn't ground off of the case but the frame instead.

What could be wrong?
 
I finally figured it out. The recitifier bridge uses Avalanche diodes which will not work for welding. The big issue now is finding someone that sells the bridge with standard diodes.

Does anyone know where I could find this?
 
orangecherokee said:
I finally figured it out. The recitifier bridge uses Avalanche diodes which will not work for welding. The big issue now is finding someone that sells the bridge with standard diodes.
Does anyone know where I could find this?
Click to expand...

Well orangecherokee, I see you've been busy while I was away on vaca!

Sorry I didn't have internets available to help you find the info you needed.

I'm no alternator expert either & would suggest finding a local alternator shop to get the parts (they know exactly where to get them), or even have them installed correctly.

By now, you seem to be much more schooled on the subject & can likely install them yourself.

Way cool man, I have never been inside of an alt yet, but I know you need a paper clip to get the brushes back in.
 
I know this thread is old but I was searching for something else I saw it never really got finished. The answer is this... There is only one place to find such a beast and that's a t Mobi-Arc. They'll sell the rectifier bridge for $30 or that's what it was a couple months ago. I've yet to buy one because I've been busy but plan to soon.

So in conclusion, if you get a free alternator like this (CS-series) then all you need is the rectifier bridge from Mobi-Arc to get it going.
 
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