....Black Sheep....

You're kickin *** buddy! Your progress is great!!!
 
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It’s been awhile since a build update.....let’s just say the drivetrain “plan”has changed!! Picked up a 14 bolt from Robbie this morning, got it to the shop and cleaned it up a little. Removed the drums and backing plate. I’ll be installing a disk brake conversion later. I’ll finish up cutting off brackets tomorrow. But now I have to take my oldest shoe shopping.....nothing like looking at shoes smelling like a rear end!!!:D:beer:
 
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Well, version 2.0 is under way. The brackets are cut off the 14 bolt. Fixed the gouges I made with the torch. Cleaned it up a bit more. Removed the Toyota axles I had mocked up. Cut off brackets and front frame horns. I will have to widen the frame to 30” to accommodate the LS. I will have to make new front frame horns so I can move the axle forward 6 or 7”. To get a bit more clearance for up travel. Slid the 14 bolt under the frame for a visual. The middle section of frame is 14” off the ground in the pic and the axle center line is at 18”. I was told by someone that seems pretty smart to build it and make everything fit at full bump....seems like a good idea to me!! Thanks for the help @Jody Treadway !
 
What’s your plan for the front axle? I believe Pearman has a super duty 60 that already has most of the factory brackets removed, which is quite the job!
 
77GreenMachine said:
What’s your plan for the front axle? I believe Pearman has a super duty 60 that already has most of the factory brackets removed, which is quite the job!
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Dana 60 for the front. I think the superduty axles have a different lug pattern. Not sure but I think it depends on the year model.
 
Nakoma said:
Dana 60 for the front. I think the superduty axles have a different lug pattern. Not sure but I think it depends on the year model.
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Paging @Chris_Keziah for advice. The one Pearman has is just a housing so you’d need everything form the C’s out. May be the right time to make it all match IF it’s worth it. He said he’d take $300, comes with 4:10 gears.

You may be better off starting with a complete king pin 60.
 
On onother note, I made a deal on a set of axles out of a late 70s Chevy 3/4 ton. 14bolt rear and Dana 44 front. Anyone interested?? Not sure what to ask for them.
 
77GreenMachine said:
Paging @Chris_Keziah for advice. The one Pearman has is just a housing so you’d need everything form the C’s out. May be the right time to make it all match IF it’s worth it. He said he’d take $300, comes with 4:10 gears.

You may be better off starting with a complete king pin 60.
Click to expand...

Depending on the build would depend on which model 60 I'd go with. The lug pattern difference is easily cured with a set of unit bearings being re-drilled.

For ultimate strength I'd go with the 05+ 60 but they're ~5" wider than your 14 bolt. I'm bias towards the 99-04 60s since there's more tube on the drivers side and 8x6.5 unit bearings are a little easier to find. For the ultimate budget killer I'd recommend the king pin as they are dumb expensive and offer no strength advantage over the other two.
 
77GreenMachine said:
Paging @Chris_Keziah for advice. The one Pearman has is just a housing so you’d need everything form the C’s out. May be the right time to make it all match IF it’s worth it. He said he’d take $300, comes with 4:10 gears.

You may be better off starting with a complete king pin 60.
Click to expand...
What year of super duty did it come out of?
 
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