"Blast from the Past" 79' RV restore

By the sounds of your build list, you'll have $15k in it before you even do the inside...


Like Ron said, keep it modest or you could have purchased a new RV
lol lol yeah sounds like a lot I guess, so far i'm sitting at 880ish with radiator and head gasket set so If I don't do that stuff, will put me right at around 550 maybe close to 600 with all new fluids. as long as i don't have to mess with new carb and the Hydro Boost brake system, I should have it reliable and driving good for about that 600. Interior lucky me i have plywood left over from closing in my shop few weeks ago, plenty of 2x4s to rip down, several 1x3s and lots of short wood screws. Paneling is about most of what i need for interior and carpet...all framing materials I have. Hope the carb is fixable as the 4barrel wouldn't kick in (lost power just made noise lol) so i'm hoping there's a clog or fuel issue.., ran awesome with 2barrels just didn't do crap when kicked the 4 in.
 
As far as the engine goes, it seems it has been sitting for a while. So, unless it is puffing smoke when you crank it, or puffing out steam, leave the valve seals, and head gaskets alone. If it's doing a lot of clicking, you might need lifters, but a fresh oil change with some Marvel added just might free them up. Change the oil again after several hours run time. A new thermostat and water pump is probably a good idea, as well as all new belts. I'd leave the engine AC, you will be glad you did. If you think it's sucking too much power going up the hills, fine, turn it off going up the hills, and use it all the other times. As far as the brakes are concerned, check it all, if it's working, leave it alone, except for maybe changing out the fluid and surfacing the front disks and rear drums. As far as the trans goes, another cooler isn't a bad idea, but I would change out the filter, inspect what is in the pan, if nothing there, replace filter and gasket, then take it to a shop that can suck out the fluid and refill it as it circulates, this way the torque converter gets fresh fluid too. I really don't think you will need a steering cooler on it, I would however jack the fron off the ground, take the lines loose and drain all the old fluid out, turn the steering to make it push out fluid from the box. put the hoses back on and fill with good fluid and circulate till no foaming. It'll make a mess so make sure to wipe it off good, so no fire hazards. Back to the brake work, it would be a good idea to replace the rubber hoses going to the brakes. Esp on the GM's, if they have sit for a while, they have a tendency to collapse and lock the brakes up.On that 14 bolt, other than changing the fluid, you might want to replace the axle seals. I saw where you said you needed to replace the drive shaft, why? as long as it isn't broke, chuncks knocked out of it, it should be fine. I think you do have a two piece drive shaft, but the carrier bearing can be replaced and make the driveline smooth again. Yeah I would replace the u-joints too.Back to the engine, I would replace the valve cover gaskets, they are most likely dried out and will leak. As far as the carb goes, should be a quadra-jet. Good carb, but since it's sit for a while, a good rebuild is probably needed. If you've never rebuilt one, I'd suggest finding someone to do it that knows them. Those "flapper " things you see on the exhaust, are called risers, and yes, they are supposed to help warm the engine up. Most likely they are frozen. I'd take the exhaust pipes down and make sure they at least stuck open. If you remove them, it's a pain in the ass to get the exhaust to not leak. plus, you'll have added expense in exhaust work.
On the inside, you are talking about taking out a of of the convenience items. Such as the kitchen stuff, shower, and so on. I didn't see mentioned anything about the furnace and water heater. Think about how you and the family will smell after a weekend during the summer, with no shower. The Flats, The SHOP, The gulches, Compound offroad, and others, there are no shower houses. Preparing food when it's cold or when it's hot, is a lot more difficult with out a kitchen. But I do see the need for more counter space. You may want to take a look at The taco truck build. He really simplified his cooking arrangment. If the fridge works, I'd leave it. I know it's small, but you can put a lot of food in one of those things. You'll still need a cooler for drinks IMO. Does the generator work? Does the fridge work? If you are dead set on taking the fridge out, and it works. I might be interested in it if we can agree on a price.
Another thing I forgot is the fuel tanks. Since you already know you most likely need a carb rebuild, you need to protect it. Chances are, the fuel tank has rust in it. So at minimum put filters on them near the tank, another at the engine, and there is one also in the carb.Better to pull tank off and clean it out. that too is a pain in the ass, but will save issues down the road. Put clear filters on it to begin with so you can see what's getting in the filters. Who knows, you might get lucky. Another thing I'd change is the fuel pump. Cheap and easy, what you don't want happening is gas going into your crank case. The diaphragms tend to crack when they sit for a long time.
Definitely looks like you have water damage. caulk all the seams and get some coating stuff from a camper place.
 
I saw where you said you needed to replace the drive shaft, why?
wow thank you so much for all the insight, very much helpful. The driveshafts broke on the way home with it (yeah that sucked really bad going 45)..apparently guy replaced rear pinion u joint and didn't put c-clips in and was fine until bam..flew off. Then i put new joints in it for field repair BUT now couldn't drive over 25mph without shaking to death so putted it home for miles (God was good that day man, State troopers everywhere pulling speeders over in front, behind us and never bothered me going 25mph in a 55, God is good). So yesterday took off both driveshafts and the front one right at carrier bearing....the splined part wobbles so it looks like it got bent when the rear one flew off so that really sucks cause now I have to somehow fix both of them and that's a expensive repair I didn't plan for. If you, @upnover have any swort of help in this, I will trade you on that fridge/freezer combo. The fridge works great...it's electric and propane and works both ways. We have several big coolers Heavy Duty that I'm going to build in with extra insulation, drain valves setup and such. Safety is big and I admit I've never been fond of propane appliances AT ALL, just me and how I am. I don't even like gas grills but I use em when i need to lol. We have a huge Griddle thing, extra microwave and george forman that I'm going to build into the kitchen area. It has built in generator that works off the gas tanks, built in inverter thingy all works so will just use little more electrical stuff rather than propane.
on Engine stuff, thanks for help...A LOT of money you saved me from doing. Fuel lines are all new, has 3 new fuel filters that are clear already, new fuel pump installed, new plugs and wires/cap/ rotor/coil and air filter assembly when he paid me a year ago to get it running. I'm the one who fixed all this mechanical stuff to it back a year ago and that was first time it ran in 6/7years,, but he never drove it just let it idle for a long while lol.
Hey I'm serious about these driveshafts and doing trade work on the fridge. The rear is no good as it's warped pretty good and one of the ears broke off but the front is straight....just the splined part that sticks out of it is bent...i guess enough bend that caused the most god awefull vibrations that I couldn't go over 25. thanks and let me know. I should have the fridge out today and freezer too.
 
Definitely looks like you have water damage. caulk all the seams and get some coating stuff from a camper place.
this is what I'm doing today since it's nice day...thurs/friday gonna rain a bunch. every window and seam getting caulk and roof getting recoated if I have time. theres gallons of the roofing stuff in it so that's cool.
 
anyone know anyone on here that might have long driveshafts laying around that would work for this thing...Thank You. just a point in a direction would be great.
 
or does anyone know if the splined part of front driveshaft can be cut off and rewelded back onto the tube to make straight? the tube is good on front, it just bent the splined part from the base though...not the splined part itself (hope I'm making sense here). the rear is SHOT...flew off at 45mph, broke an year off, bent the other, and wife ran it over following with the tahoe...yeah imagine how all this played out with a wife who NEVER Drives, has anxiety/panic attacks and then BAM....4ft long driveshaft comes flying towards tahoe at 45mph....she handled it like a trooper for the most part, couldn't be more proud and thankful for her being protected.
needless to say, that rear shaft is warped pretty good, has dent in it and i had to weld the ujoint caps in place on the rear part of it for field repair to just put it home. a good friend in town did all the ujoints and welding for me so i could hurry up and get back on the rd...good thing i'm skinny feller, it sucks crawling under that thing on side of rd with no jacks of course LOL
 
funny too 4/5 people got pulled over in front and behind us while fixing it from state troopers...God is good people..we didn't get messed with one time and I was doing 25mph in a 55 the rest of the way home after that until we hit town..then speed limit was pretty good with traffic.
(boy the state troopers seemed to be taking that new law to heart that day, I mean dang...lots of tickets being handed out)
 
@upnover call/text me 828-964-3128 about fridge or anything else as I work all day outside and don't ever come in to get on here until night time if you need to hit me up about fridge/freezer stuff or driveshaft help too lol. thanks.
 
off to work...everyone have a great day at work!!:)
 
Keep the engine A/C components and get the system charged. An A/C compressor isn't going to rob that much power from a 454. The condenser also isn't going to cause the engine to run 20 degrees hotter by blocking air.

I would take the the whole driveshaft setup (tranny output to 14 bolt) to a driveshaft shop and get them to repair it and rebalance it.

Don't take the motor apart if it runs good. I agree on replacing the valve cover gaskets though.

Replace ALL the coolant and radiator hoses.

Replace ALL the flexible brake lines.

You can rebuild the quadrajet. Just buy a manual on how to do it or heck there is probably a youtube video on it.

Awesome SCORE for free!
 
lol lol yeah sounds like a lot I guess, so far i'm sitting at 880ish with radiator and head gasket set so If I don't do that stuff, will put me right at around 550 maybe close to 600 with all new fluids. as long as i don't have to mess with new carb and the Hydro Boost brake system, I should have it reliable and driving good for about that 600. Interior lucky me i have plywood left over from closing in my shop few weeks ago, plenty of 2x4s to rip down, several 1x3s and lots of short wood screws. Paneling is about most of what i need for interior and carpet...all framing materials I have. Hope the carb is fixable as the 4barrel wouldn't kick in (lost power just made noise lol) so i'm hoping there's a clog or fuel issue.., ran awesome with 2barrels just didn't do crap when kicked the 4 in.

Unless you have the carpet laying around, I would look into laminate/vinyl flooring. Esp if this is going to be used for wheeling, you can just sweep/hose it out.
 
Unless you have the carpet laying around, I would look into laminate/vinyl flooring. Esp if this is going to be used for wheeling, you can just sweep/hose it out.

This!

In fact...since you're gutting it, I'd personally go back with exactly what Kenneth did in the taco truck build on the inside
 
I would take the the whole driveshaft setup (tranny output to 14 bolt) to a driveshaft shop and get them to repair it and rebalance it.
i guess I'm gonna have to...slim chance someone would have that same length anyways, I realized this today. as for the motor stuff, you and upnover are on the same page and will do just that. I don't need to spend money where it's not needed. I did have a question...are the front calipers something known to stick or whatnot or with mileage if they work good, keep em. The breaks worked pretty good on the way home for sitting the last 6yrs..once the rust burned off it would stop pretty good.
Unless you have the carpet laying around, I would look into laminate/vinyl flooring. Esp if this is going to be used for wheeling, you can just sweep/hose it out.
contractor customer has enough to do inside but still up for debate. I like carpet always for comfort and less moping and would rather vacuum than sweep and mop lol and wife wants carpet too. the only reason i would do laminate is for looks but still up for debate when we get there.
Keep the engine A/C components and get the system charged. An A/C compressor isn't going to rob that much power from a 454. The condenser also isn't going to cause the engine to run 20 degrees hotter by blocking air.
you ain't gonna believe it but found out today the factory A/C still works cold as crap..HOLY COW!! no retrofit either so someone recharged it long time ago or it was just built that dam good cause wow, it turned into ice box after 15/20minutes of running so suppose might keep it for now.
 
I would set a reasonable budget to work off of. Then prioritize your expenses and stick to doing that.
Otherwise as Ron said you WILL end up spending as much as a much newer motorhome.
 
As per the calipers, that is another Rubber part that has a Lot of years on it! Good they didn't stick, but they probably have very little wear. It's possible, once you drive it more, they will start leaking. Shouldn't cost much to replace them, just for peace of mind & safety.
 
As per the calipers, that is another Rubber part that has a Lot of years on it! Good they didn't stick, but they probably have very little wear. It's possible, once you drive it more, they will start leaking. Shouldn't cost much to replace them, just for peace of mind & safety.
ok good to know and will replace them for that safety of going down the mountain and not seizing up on me. thank you.
I would set a reasonable budget to work off of. Then prioritize your expenses and stick to doing that.
Otherwise as Ron said you WILL end up spending as much as a much newer motorhome.
yep, I def need to make a budget not only for finances but so it will get done LOL... my "attention to detail" sets in too hard and I'll never finish.
thanks guys, will update when i make some progress on it.
 
If you had to "burn off rust", then the rotors are probably shot.

Are they bright and shiny? Are the faces clear of pock marks and grooves? If not, you need new ones.
 
What should I do? Blah, blah, blah

Treat this situation as if it belonged to one of your customers. What would you advise them to do? You know, in the interest of safety and liability?

That is your answer John.

Slow down, take your time and do what NEEDS to be done. It'll never be a powerhouse nor will it ever tow like a later model diesel truck. But it will accomplish what you desire it to.
 
alright guys had whole day to work on this today and here's what I got...almost done with clearing out interior...now i know where the roof leaks are...EVERYWHERE LOL...that's gonna suck to do, but made good progress. i guess the good news is it's only leaking on the edges (makes sense) where the roof meets the siding, i've been reading that's very common place for most all leaks.
RV phase 2 rear interior.jpg
RV phase 2 front view.jpg
 
Slow down, take your time
aww no pulling all nighters to finish it in few weeks! LOL, nah I wish, money is my issue with this project not time. so I will be able to take more time since it will take me time to get the funds together. thanks man!
 
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