Building a Shop on a budget...(My Shop Project Build)

rockcity said:
Maybe its the dirty monitor and laptop screen not real bright (not plugged in), but I didn't seen any WWF in the concrete. Did you put any in?
We have a contract with Ready Mixed and I think our price is about $107 per yard (we buy at least 4000 yards a year). It may have fluctuated recently, but I haven't purchased any in about 2 months...
shop looks good.
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NO WWF..

i have read a lot of stories about where they put WWF into concrete when pourng, etc and whenever someoen suts into the concrete for a repair or a modification the WWF is at very bottom not doing a thing.. so I just went with the fiber(glass) stuff concrete company puts in..

not really sure what that is called..
 
BigJUGGY said:
Giant Nocturnal Weedeater with Airboat Engine & Hella's?? The neighbors are gonna love you Ken...:flipoff2:
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you have no idea.. he was here till midnight :)

and will be back at 8am..
 
BRUISER said:
NO WWF..
i have read a lot of stories about where they put WWF into concrete when pourng, etc and whenever someoen suts into the concrete for a repair or a modification the WWF is at very bottom not doing a thing.. so I just went with the fiber(glass) stuff concrete company puts in..
not really sure what that is called..
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usually its because the WWF wasn't installed correctly. however it should be in the bottom 1/3 of the slab.

That fiberglass stuff is pretty good stuff too. Never really used it but heard it works good.
 
well floor is all done

came out great...of course now I have to wait to drive on it :)

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Concrete was done by:

Clark Concrete
owner is: Charles
919-720-3903
great guys to work with, did exactly what I wanted.. and had best prices in town.
 
Its best to seal it before you put anything on it. Put two coats. The shop looks good.
 
TonkaToy said:
Its best to seal it before you put anything on it. Put two coats. The shop looks good.
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all the sealers I looked at said you nedd to wait atleast 30 days before applying to new concrete.. so that is not gonna happen :)
 
Well saturday I got some of the framing up.. but thank goodness for a freind to help me get the other half done today

I put 6x6 beams bolted to the steel on sides, then ran (2) 2x6 screwed together for the top header board.
still more framing to go in, and door is just set in location.. not done

Looks like I will end up with 10'10" doors.. :)

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TheGriz said:
Looking good. I know that long header was not easy to hang!
What kind of doors are you putting in? Vertical sliding doors? or Barn type doors that swing open?
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yes that header was a pain.. and heavy :)

but standing on back of Jeep sure did make it easier :)

as fro doors I am building steel barn door style that will swing open.. each door will be 8 foot.. that way I can open just one and still get in and out, but if I need to pull trailer or camper in I can open both
 
If you are building the door frame out of wood, make sure to brace the heck out of it or it WILL slowly sag. We thought the ones on my fence were well built but 6 months later I am dragging the ground on both sides.

Lightweight/metal might make for better doors? Then cover em with the same siding as the rest and it it will look really sharp.

You going to put in a lift or still not high enough for that?
 
SHINTON said:
If you are building the door frame out of wood, make sure to brace the heck out of it or it WILL slowly sag. We thought the ones on my fence were well built but 6 months later I am dragging the ground on both sides.
Lightweight/metal might make for better doors? Then cover em with the same siding as the rest and it it will look really sharp.
You going to put in a lift or still not high enough for that?
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the top brace that run across front of building is steel.
then it is tied into top header 2x6's with brackets.

for doors i plan to build them out of very thin 1.5 x1.5 square tubing, then sheet them with thin sheet metal.

it is high enough for a lift but that is way down the road.. i need to get the inside insulated, covered, etc.

but yes someday I hope to have a lift.. ceiling is 15.5' tall
 
yager said:
how will the doors be hung? or will they be on a track ?
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I am kind of torn on this.. I like both swing out doors and sliding doors.. not 100% yet.. I will build doors.. but I think I am leaning towards doors that slide to the side
 
Well as you can see I emptied out my storage unit so I can stop paying for that, and I also did some more framing on the right side for the walk in door. Hope to have that finished tomorrow and alos gettha Hardiplank up.

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BRUISER said:
the top brace that run across front of building is steel. then it is tied into top header 2x6's with brackets.
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I was thinking sag too with that door span and 2x6's until you said steel brace so it sounds like it should be good to go.

For a budget shop its looking great man, definitely jealous.
 
Looks good... After some thought... I think your structure would better support a double sliding door. 2 hanging doors each covering 1/2 the opening. Each on a full length track, running the entire end of the building. (Tractor Supply Sells this stuff) Each door can be moved interdependently. This would allow you many options. Either 1/2 open on either side or push both to the right to drive in/out. The biggest advantage I see is that a hanging door won't need much bracing and is supported on both ends. This will keep it light, easy to push etc.. Put a small hole in the floor to drop in 2 small guide rollers in the center, that can be pulled out as needed. Some latches to keep it all tight and sealed up when needed.

I'd use some 1x2 18ga w/ some cross bracing then some 3/16" cable in an X on the inside to keep it square, skin it, insulate it then do some decorative stuff on the outside..
 
yager said:
Looks good... After some thought... I think your structure would better support a double sliding door. 2 hanging doors each covering 1/2 the opening. Each on a full length track, running the entire end of the building. (Tractor Supply Sells this stuff) Each door can be moved interdependently. This would allow you many options. Either 1/2 open on either side or push both to the right to drive in/out. The biggest advantage I see is that a hanging door won't need much bracing and is supported on both ends. This will keep it light, easy to push etc.. Put a small hole in the floor to drop in 2 small guide rollers in the center, that can be pulled out as needed. Some latches to keep it all tight and sealed up when needed.

I'd use some 1x2 18ga w/ some cross bracing then some 3/16" cable in an X on the inside to keep it square, skin it, insulate it then do some decorative stuff on the outside..
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WOW GREAT minds think alike.. that is exactly the plan I came up with.. I found all the parts I need at Grainger and I am going next saturday to get all the steel.. so within 2 weks doors should be up :)
 
So, this is where the porta-pooper is going! JK

Ken have you given thought to a roll up door, the kind that hangs on the inside and is raised and lowered with a chain? A good friend of mine had this type door and it worked great. It didn't take any room up up, or down and sealed up pretty good too.
 
sliding doors wont work, unless you figure out a way to have one of the halves slide behind the other. Just look at it...if you took a door the size of the opening and slid it to the right you would only have revealed an opening the size of the finished part where your "man door" is. I guess you could continue the track off the side of the building, but i dont think that would be very stable. I think the aforementioned roll up door would be the nicest, it takes up no overhead room when opened. They are a little pricey though, might could find one thats been taken down somewhere....The building looks great by the way, very neat and simple, I like it!
 
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