Burrellsjeep Project: Eugene

Cover is painted and ready to mount tomorrow

Let me know what you think, Just couldn't force my self to paint it black, I needed a little :bling:
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www.mudprometalworks.com
 
I got some work done last week, Wheeled and Camped at URE over the weekend so I am just getting around to updating.

Installed the spring retainer as suggested by my wife (Springs have fallen out of the rear 3 times, I have been lucky they didn't do any damage)

I had Mud cut me a 4 inch 1/4 disc with a 1/2 hole in the center, I used a 1/2 inch 2 inch long self tapping bolt and secured them to the center of the lower rear spring mount, the mount has a bump the centers the spring, which made a perfect place to mount it. Its not tight against the spring, its just there to keep the spring from popping out when the axle hit full flex.

Pictures
Retainer #1.jpg

retainer #2.jpg


Kyle stopped in to give me a hand, but he is easily distracted

My Help.jpg
 
Kyle and I were able to get the diff cover installed also. Went in with out any issues, I am really impressed with the fit on the housing. I wheeled it this weekend and it took a few hits with out even a ding. So hats off to Mud Pro for building a top notch product.

Here is reason for the addition of a cover, If your running a stock cover on your Ford 8.8 be aware of what can happen. The covers are thin and easily pushed in and torn off. I got lucky with mine, it got into the ring gear and some how managed not to cut all the way though the cover or get caught in the Ring Gear and do more damage to the diff.

You can see in these pictures of the factory cover where it is cut into by the gear.

Gouges in cover.jpg

beat up cover.jpg


Here are some pictures of the new cover installed.

Cover installed.jpg

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I may have some clearance issue with the fuel tank, Didn't seem to hit this weekend, I am sure its really close. Maybe its time to address the fuel tank :D

Clearance.jpg

If your looking for a Diff cover give Mud a Call, you can't beat the service and pricing on a 3/8s cover. I am very happy and impressed with mine.
 
Had some time today so I rebuilt the Ballistics Joints with the new solid races, the old races were oval in the center when I removed them, Not by much, but you could see the ridges in the backs of the races breaking down. I expected them to be much worst. They weren't that bad, I feel the solid ones will solve any future issues.

Here are some pictures, Its hard to tell, but there starting to oval and break down

Broken.jpg
oval.jpg


I installed them the first time around with a borrowed spanner tool, Well I don't have that any more and I didn't want to pay the $40 for there tool. So I made my own out of some stuff I had laying around.

1 1/4 Cheapo Socket, and some cut nails

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I marked the slots on the socket and welded the cut nails to it. Here is the finale product. Its getto fab but it worked, for under $5 in materials, I know I am being cheap :flipoff2:

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I was able to adjust the front out 2 and 1/2 inches, this should solve a rubbing I have on the rear of the front fender wells, I also swapped the links, Ballistics joint at the frame and Creeper Joint on the axle, We shall see how that holds up.
 
Added some isolators to the heims in the in the steering and track bar axle mounts. The clanking of the heims drives me nuts, So I figured out a way to dampen it.

I had a bushing from a factory TJ upper lying on the shelf and decided to use it, since the diameter of it was just about right.

Poly Bushing.jpg

I tackled the Track bar mount first. I needed to trim the bushing to size, The mount for the Track bar at the axle is a 2'' mount, The bushing needed to be 5/8s to fill the gap on one side of the mount. I am only doing one side, just because that is all that is needed to keep it from clanking.

I cut the poly bushing with a hack saw, it made a nice clean cut. Then I pressed the misalignment spacer into the center bore.

Pressed in.jpg


Here is a picture of the bushing installed in the mount. You can also see that it holds the other end of the Track Bar level and it is not laying over and clanking when the Jeep flexes.

Track Mount.jpg

Frame Mount Track.jpg

Now the Drag link is next...
 
The track bar worked out great, so I made one for the drag link from what was left over from the bushing. The Drag link mount is just a heim with a step down spacers, so the bushing will only need to be a little over a 1/4 of a inch thick.

Here is what the pitman arm mount does that causes the issues.
Pitman.jpg

Here is the Drag Link mount installed.
Drag Link.jpg

Here is how both mounts sit now, I think this will work out great, Just depends on how well they hold up. I am betting they will be just fine.

Both mounts.jpg
 
novacayne75 said:
i see you found something to do with your short vacation.
Click to expand...

Yep, Just scraping together what I can do that doesn't cost anything. Now that I have the heims quited I have a popping sound when you turn hard left or right, Sounds like it may be in the steering box, Not sure. I will need to narrow it down a little more, I hope its a lose bolt or mount, Thats what it sounds like. Sounds like a bolt popping due to being loose, it diffidently metal on metal.
 
Found my popping issue, the driver side heim bolt was loose enough to allow a pop, I tightn it along with all the other bolts and took it for a test drive. Its weird to drive with out a bunch of pops and clanks. The steering is tight and the ride is smooth. Its been along time since I had it this well.

I was scared it was in the steering box, But it was nice to find a loose bolt.
 
looking great man
 
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