Carport/lean-to width for trailers

Oh, so this is basically a lean to off the back of your shop?
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Oh, so this is basically a lean to off the back of your shop?
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That is correct

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elevations.JPG
 
Loganwayne said:
post a sketch of where this will be on your land with a rough idea of driveways.
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Had to tone it down from the original plan

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So as to not have to spend more on grading than the building.....and too, it's harder to get an apache than I thought:kaioken:
 
A few thoughts in no particular order:

1. The elevations are tagged incorrectly.
2. The kitchen and restrooms don't comply with ADA requirements.
3. Swing the closet door out. It seems stupid until something in the closet falls over and blocks the door (and it will, guaranteed)
4. Scaling off the site plan, it looks like you only have about 40ft from the north face of the building to the edge of the gravel. I don't think that's enough to get squared up. You should run some truck turning circles on it.

Most all of that is pedantic, but I'm less convinced now that backing under the lean-to works since I've seen the drawings.
 
shawn said:
1. The elevations are tagged incorrectly.
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You're not qualified to Redicheck :flipoff2:

shawn said:
2. The kitchen and restrooms don't comply with ADA requirements.
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Yeah I know..... :( While I don't have ANSI nor ADA standards for Tlt 1, it WILL be a 17" toilet, and the Lav will be ADA

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The shower is a barrier free as well.

We both have aging parents, and this will serve dual purpose to house US (and all our crap) while we build, but also be where our parents can live on their own, and still be close to us. So THAT bathroom, while not technically ADA, is about as close as I want for my home. PLUS, it can be isolated from anyone who's in the apartment if I happen to get so nasty bush-hogging/mechanicing, etc that I need a shower and to toss my clothes into the washer before heading over to the house.

shawn said:
3. Swing the closet door out. It seems stupid until something in the closet falls over and blocks the door (and it will, guaranteed)
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My wife is campaigning for pocket doors in both the closet and bathroom as ours always stay open anyway....but you have a very valid point

shawn said:
4. Scaling off the site plan, it looks like you only have about 40ft from the north face of the building to the edge of the gravel.
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shawn said:
it looks like you only have about 40ft from the north face of the building to the edge of the gravel. I don't think that's enough to get squared up. You should run some truck turning circles on it.
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Yeah, about 35ft, that's why I said earlier:

CasterTroy said:
That's the plan. May be in grass a little doing so....or may have that far out gravelled. But SHOULD be able to come along the side and then pull away straight to back right in
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I've got an offer on the property at the main road. If taken I'll likely move the residence over there and have this property JUST for the building, which would make it a non-issue
 

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CasterTroy said:
My wife is campaigning for pocket doors in both the closet and bathroom as ours always stay open anyway....but you have a very valid point
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If you can get pocket doors to work on both bathrooms and the WIC, I'd suggest going that route. I was mostly giving you shit about the door clearances, but that's because any res stuff I do has to be either Type A or Type B. I'm less concerned about the toilet height or sink clearances, just because you'd be hard-pressed to get a wheelchair in the 3/4 bath, much less navigate to the sink in one.
 
shawn said:
If you can get pocket doors to work on both bathrooms and the WIC, I'd suggest going that route. I was mostly giving you shit about the door clearances
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Damn....you've got a point. Everyone gets around perfectly NOW...but it'd be hell navigating this apartment in a walker, walker/chair or wheelchair

Need to make all the doors min 34" I guess since I need 32" clear from face of door to opposite opening :mad:
 
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I’m with Shawn I don’t see you driving around the left side and then squaring up to it. With a longer trailer your gonna end up cutting wide and dragging the trailer around the corners


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If I am reading your elevation maps correctly, it looks like you would be better off mirroring the building where the carport was on the other end of the house. It looks like, on the map, the land doesnt fall off that you could use to straighten up before backing in. The building is inline with the elevation lines vs across them.

What about making a loop up to the building from your house drive that would come straight into that end of the building. Could use it as the place to straighten out before backing in.

I would say that changing you design a little, so you can pull through, would be beneficial. Also, I think you are going to want a doorway coming onto the back pad from inside the garage atleast, if not through the mud room.
 
yeah, you guys are right.. I'm off the grade and almost to the property line before I get straightened up

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Need to flip, and mess with some grades
 
You need a 36" nominal door to get 32" clear, unless the door can swing to 180*. But that's only if that's important to you.
 
shawn said:
You need a 36" nominal door to get 32" clear, unless the door can swing to 180*. But that's only if that's important to you.
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Yeah...it kinda is.

I'd hate to do all this, and then one of them be confined, then have to dump them thru doors. I'd prefer wheeling them from the car all the way to the bedroom



As far as the trailer parking.....It would just be better to add a 16' section to the roof at the end, since what I eventually want would fit

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That was going to be my suggestion. Move the lawn shed to behind the garage, and have an open carport on each end of the building.

I think you could arrange that to allow pulling through. Looks like it would be easier to make it wider than 12ft as well.
 
CasterTroy said:
Yeah...it kinda is.

I'd hate to do all this, and then one of them be confined, then have to dump them thru doors. I'd prefer wheeling them from the car all the way to the bedroom



As far as the trailer parking.....It would just be better to add a 16' section to the roof at the end, since what I eventually want would fit

View attachment 265096
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The hard part there is getting someplace to turn around. You'd need to rework the grades where the shop driveway and the house driveway fork so that you can pull up to the house and back around the corner and up to the shop. I'd need to see a larger version of the proposed grading plan, but I'm not convinced it works as its drawn right now, anyway. Are you using the berms to close off view corridors?

You don't have enough room to get around the back of the building with a gooseneck. Figure that as a bare minimum, you need a wide enough driveway so that you can pull past the building the distance from the steer tires to the front trailer axle before the truck starts to turn. And you need ~24ft of driveway when backing in order to back around a 90* corner. Something closer to 30ft is better. The driveway where you're ending up can be more like 15ft, so long as the trailer has swing clearance on both sides that's greater than that.
 
CasterTroy said:
Yup

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If you go that route make it tall enough so you can back it under the shed with the rig still on the trailer. That way if it's raining you can unhook in the dry. Also if it's on the end like that go ahead and go 20ft wide. Whatever you do it will end up not being big enough.
 
CasterTroy said:
Yeah...it kinda is.

I'd hate to do all this, and then one of them be confined, then have to dump them thru doors. I'd prefer wheeling them from the car all the way to the bedroom



As far as the trailer parking.....It would just be better to add a 16' section to the roof at the end, since what I eventually want would fit

View attachment 265096
Click to expand...

If you flip the trailer parking to the other side it looks as if it'd be easier to back in. But I'm not sure how much drive surface you plan to have, where you have it now appears to have you making a complete u turn in front of the shop to get lined up.
 
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