Carport/lean-to width for trailers

shawn said:
Are you using the berms to close off view corridors?
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That's the idea. Careful balance of NOT seeing the shop, but seeing the shop (women :rolleyes:)

Grading plan hasn't been tweaked for vehicular travel or...really anything other than footprint (right now)

I needed to put something on paper to get quotes from graders and compare the cost against just buying equipment...etc

Plus, in negotiations with the hunting land just south of me for more acreage...that'll free up more area that WON'T need as much grading and I can re position everything.
 
CasterTroy said:
That's the idea. Careful balance of NOT seeing the shop, but seeing the shop
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Maybe, but you look square at it when you're coming up the driveway. If you have to stick with this layout, I recommend rotating the shop building approx 20-30* CW. The rough grading is dumping a lot of water behind the building that doesn't have a way out, and that big berm on the north end just means you're going to be bulldozing all the trees out to the property line. If you rotate the building, it ameliorates some of that and gets you back to existing grade faster on the north and east sides. It might even take a bunch out of the west side where you're making a big cut in the hill. The way the grading plan is drawn, you're cutting down damn-near every tree on the property.
 
shawn said:
The way the grading plan is drawn, you're cutting down damn-near every tree on the property.
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You're right.

Moving the house to the adjacent lot we just closed on today. So Now the shop has it's own 5 acres. I'll now move it to the center and not have to worry about ANY sight lines, as the house will be over 1000ft away thru heavy hardwood forest :rockon:

I'm pricing 12ft, 16ft, and now 20ft wide on the both the backside and short side, and I'll grade it to where I can drive a 53ft trailer around the whole building.

@shawn do you have any AutoCad truck radius templates you would be willing to share?
 
CasterTroy said:
You're right.

Moving the house to the adjacent lot we just closed on today. So Now the shop has it's own 5 acres. I'll now move it to the center and not have to worry about ANY sight lines, as the house will be over 1000ft away thru heavy hardwood forest :rockon:

I'm pricing 12ft, 16ft, and now 20ft wide on the both the backside and short side, and I'll grade it to where I can drive a 53ft trailer around the whole building.

@shawn do you have any AutoCad truck radius templates you would be willing to share?
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Congrats on closing on the adjacent lot. Very jealous over here!
 
Thanks

We absolutely love this piece of property, and had been eyeing that adjacent lot since day 1, but squeezing in a shop, and a house between the creek, septic field, and property line made that a no brainer
 
16' and be done put damn motion lights shining on posts if ya can't get it in dark with 16' opening don't need that big a trailer lol I'd imagine your like me and overthinking this tho... but 16' gives ya that extra room on sides, and I'm guessing ya hauled enough to back a trailer up or know when to atleast stop and get it right!?
 
^ ignore that then... haha
 
Loganwayne said:
We use A&S, and inland buildings a lot at my work they are red iron. Our hands are also kinda tied due to architect wanting specific stuff


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Thanks, i'll look into those. I'm almost 100% sure i'll end up going with a post-frame building but the clear span of a red iron building would be nice
 
t4rghost said:
Thanks, i'll look into those. I'm almost 100% sure i'll end up going with a post-frame building instead of red iron
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We are almost always required to use red iron. But our 5 building that are on your yard are Morton.

We did have a guy that would do buildings and beat Morton by a ton but he recently passed away.


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t4rghost said:
@CasterTroy who are you getting to quote/build your shop? Are there any good options besides Morton?
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I have a friend who's a builder. Since I have an apartment as the main cost I'm pricing it both inclusive and parting it out for subs. I have Morton on deck for next week, and will likely have butler and one other.....ill have to look when I'm back in the office
 
CasterTroy said:
I have a friend who's a builder. Since I have an apartment as the main cost I'm pricing it both inclusive and parting it out for subs. I have Morton on deck for next week, and will likely have butler and one other.....ill have to look when I'm back in the office
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I've had Morton quote a couple shells and they're high. I bet a Morton building like you posted on page 2 would cost around $100k for just the shell and concrete without any insulation. They are good buildings though, my grandpa has one that was built 25 years ago and it would look new if it were pressure washed.
 
t4rghost said:
I've had Morton quote a couple shells and they're high. I bet a Morton building like you posted on page 2 would cost around $120k for just the shell and concrete without any insulation.
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They built a 100x40 with 14ft sides, and (2) 14x14 doors for a buddy 2 yrs ago for $80k ( no concrete)

20180224_102112.jpg
 
CasterTroy said:
They built a 100x40 with 14ft sides, and (2) 14x14 doors for a buddy 2 yrs ago for $80k ( no concrete)

View attachment 265521
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I may have over estimated a little, i changed it to $100k but you must have replied before I edited it. The awnings/carports/windows/doors add a lot of cost thought. I had the quote approx 3500 sq ft building w/ awning around 1/4 of the perimeter, 3 roll ups, 3 walk-ins and several windows similar to the one you posted and it was $110k shell and concrete. Also had a 60x100 w/ 3 roll ups, 2 walk-ins, several windows, no awning and it was $120k shell and concrete.

Thats 2500 for sq ft for $10k more just cause it was basic
 
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