Chainsaws

shawn said:
WTF do you need a bar that big? I felled and bucked a 24" water oak this afternoon with a 2hp Husky and a 14" bar.
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Why do you need a diesel to pull your enclosed trailer? Why not just put a hitch on top of a bug and rock out?

Because the diesel truck fits the application better.
 
That's not much of a metaphor. The pin weight would crush a half ton truck. But the smaller saw cuts just fine. It's light and forgiving, too.
 
I would like a bigger saw than my 029 Farm Boss, but I don't need it. I just can't talk myself into spending the money. The only thing I cut down around my property is pine trees, and the biggest ones of those are about 20" in diameter measured about a foot off the ground.
 
I just wanted to know what it was worth and if it was even worth getting. Guess with chainsaws you don't go bigger than needed. I know that I'm not buying another homeowners series...
 
shawn said:
That's not much of a metaphor. The pin weight would crush a half ton truck. But the smaller saw cuts just fine. It's light and forgiving, too.
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people with little twig arms need light and forgiving, while men use real saws.
:popcorn:
 
Stuntman Autoworks said:
started looking on craigslist today I can find some 361 and 362s but I can't find any 261s. Is there a reason for that? also is there another way to tell what model the saw is just incase someone has swapped the stickers to get more money for a bigger saw that it actually isn't.
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There isn't really a way to tell unless you're familiar with the build of Stihl chainsaws and can recognize the difference in cylinder size between a 200 and 300 series saw. Stihl uses a sticker now for the serial number. If that's gone, there "should" be a serial number imprinted in the case housing, but that won't tell you anything unless you have access to the dealer website.
 
I have a 35 cc Stihl and would not trade it for any other saw when it comes to clearing brush and cleaning the fence line. We also have an old Huqvarna that we use for cutting firewood and fencposts. You cant get that thing bogged down!!! Only complaint with it is it is pre safety brake.
 
I like my 361, but I still go to the 046/460 probably 95% of the time :wheel:
 
That's my ms440 with a 25". Power to spare so I think the weight is justifiable. The best investment I have made concerning chainsaws is the dremel sharpener attachment. Apparently, millennials don't have patience for files and such. I also have a 16" bar that makes it really manageable for bucking, uses 12$ chains and spits chips like a race saw.
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Anybody on here have a preference on a chain grinder? I like to file to touch one up. However a really dull chain or the ones for my 3 and 4 foot bars take a long time to file. Also mounting those big fellas up in a vise with the saw is sorta a pita. I heat exclusively with wood and several very large white oaks are already selected. Several years I have wanted a good chain grinder.
 
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I use this kit on my dremel with the pink stone. Low speed to avoid heating your teeth and it works well. I do a 25" bar in about 5 minutes and no need to remove the bar or chain. I've never used a table top grinder though. @WARRIORWELDING
 
Looking for a good table top. My grandmother's brother ran a tool sharpening and circular blade reconditioning business. I worked part time when I was really young. He also sharpened all of our saws. His was very well made Precision machined and industrial. It got sold or handed down and I never got a brand name. Ran correctly you can grind a custom profile and roll some chips. Done wrong and you'll kill a chain in one session.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Looking for a good table top. My grandmother's brother ran a tool sharpening and circular blade reconditioning business. I worked part time when I was really young. He also sharpened all of our saws. His was very well made Precision machined and industrial. It got sold or handed down and I never got a brand name. Ran correctly you can grind a custom profile and roll some chips. Done wrong and you'll kill a chain in one session.
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I agree, buddy works for the forest service and they have a sweet saw grinder. I usually take it over to him when it's raining and let him do some work on the saw. Cuts awesome. I'll see if I can get the brand and model of the one they have

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I have a stihl 025 with a 18" bar that will be a family heirloom. I love that saw. I use a round file in the battery drill to sharpen the chain. Done it that way since forever and works great.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Anybody on here have a preference on a chain grinder? I like to file to touch one up. However a really dull chain or the ones for my 3 and 4 foot bars take a long time to file. Also mounting those big fellas up in a vise with the saw is sorta a pita. I heat exclusively with wood and several very large white oaks are already selected. Several years I have wanted a good chain grinder.
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We used the Oregon brand sharpeners at my last shop. Seemed to work pretty well with a diamond blade. A lot of people forget to knock down the depth gauge when they're sharpening and then complain about poor cut quality.
 
I sharpen mine by hand.

The abrasive type grinder sharpeners will harden the steel and make sharpening in the field with a file a futile act.

By the time I've hand sharpened my chains to the point of needing a grinder sharpener the life is nearly gone. I'll take them at that point to my friend who sells Stihl and let him sharpen them when his guy needs something to do. When they dull after that, I toss em.
 
I got this one a few years ago w a 20" bar after much researching. Lightweight for the hp, starts easily, They are only sold w a semi chisel/anti kickback chain but it cut's a whole lot better w a full chisel chain. I like the longer bar, I don't have to bend over so much while limbing and the 20" bar balances nicely. I also looked at the MS261 a pro saw w slightly more hp and lighter weight for about $100 more.

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/farm-and-ranch-saws/ms291/
 
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WARRIORWELDING said:
Looking for a good table top. My grandmother's brother ran a tool sharpening and circular blade reconditioning business. I worked part time when I was really young. He also sharpened all of our saws. His was very well made Precision machined and industrial. It got sold or handed down and I never got a brand name. Ran correctly you can grind a custom profile and roll some chips. Done wrong and you'll kill a chain in one session.
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I have the harbor freight one that we got when my stepdad and me ran a small engine shop. It works great!

Electric Chain Saw Sharpener
 
frankenyoter said:
I sharpen mine by hand.

The abrasive type grinder sharpeners will harden the steel and make sharpening in the field with a file a futile act.

By the time I've hand sharpened my chains to the point of needing a grinder sharpener the life is nearly gone. I'll take them at that point to my friend who sells Stihl and let him sharpen them when his guy needs something to do. When they dull after that, I toss em.
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My dad taught and had me sharpening his chains when I was probly 8 yo. he also taught me If you don't stick the bar in the dirt or cut dirty wood and hand sharpen the chain every time you run it, or every other time depending on how much you cut, It only takes 2 or three strokes or 3/5 mins. to keep it sticky sharp, I don't need or want to mess w a grinder. Hand sharpening is faster if you always maintain a sharp chain
 
mommucked said:
My dad taught and had me sharpening his chains when I was probly 8 yo. he also taught me If you don't stick the bar in the dirt or cut dirty wood and hand sharpen the chain every time you run it, or every other time depending on how much you cut, It only takes 2 or three strokes or 3/5 mins. to keep it sticky sharp, I don't need or want to mess w a grinder. Hand sharpening is faster if you always maintain a sharp chain
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Yep!

I sharpened mine since day one. Did really well, but I didn't have anything to compare it to. Then I had an arborist buddy show me a thing or two and now I'm an all star at hand sharpening.
 
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