Cheapo Tow Rig project

Don't know Which trailer thread had a recent discussion on tilt trailers, so I'll just put it here. Saw today; look like a church is getting some type of refrigeration unit. There's 2 fair sized compressors, under the unit. I'd have to Try out This tilt, to have an opinion on it! I'm sure it has pros & cons. Powered or gravity? Sorry, I didn't check.
 

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rodney eppes said:
Don't know Which trailer thread had a recent discussion on tilt trailers, so I'll just put it here. Saw today; look like a church is getting some type of refrigeration unit. There's 2 fair sized compressors, under the unit. I'd have to Try out This tilt, to have an opinion on it! I'm sure it has pros & cons. Powered or gravity? Sorry, I didn't check.
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Kaufman 22ft partial tilt with dual 7k axles, gravity tilt with hydraulic damping cylinder. The one in the picture is the newest generation in the 15k "deluxe" version. What you wanna know about them? I've had 3 different generations, steel and wood deck, 14k and 15k, pin latch and lever latch, 20ft and 22ft, new, used, and abused. :D

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jeepinmatt said:
Kaufman 22ft partial tilt with dual 7k axles, gravity tilt with hydraulic damping cylinder. The one in the picture is the newest generation in the 15k "deluxe" version. What you wanna know about them? I've had 3 different generations, steel and wood deck, 14k and 15k, pin latch and lever latch, 20ft and 22ft, new, used, and abused. :D

View attachment 321736 View attachment 321737
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And I saw 2 more of them on the Interstate today! Guess I started looking. Just seems odd, as I've only used a full bed tilt. I'd hate to start backing up, & it tip, high centering me. All depends on length & area of weight, I assume?
 
rodney eppes said:
And I saw 2 more of them on the Interstate today! Guess I started looking. Just seems odd, as I've only used a full bed tilt. I'd hate to start backing up, & it tip, high centering me. All depends on length & area of weight, I assume?
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They are made for short wheelbase stuff like skidsteers and mini-excavators. The tilt portion is 15ft9in, and they recommend a 94" wheelbase limit. But with a cylinder lockout, you could certainly handle a lot longer.
 
To get this back on track..... man how this thread has derailed.


Truck is running great, but I am consistently getting a CEL for the catalytic converter (bank 1) inefficiency code.

Used to be I’d clear it and it’d stay gone for 1000-1500 miles +\-
Recently it has been coming back more often. Today I drove like 40 miles and it came back. They’re pretty dang expensive, and it seems crazy to just replace 1 side, assuming the other could be next. So my question is, for off road towing only of course, how important are these converters? Asking for a friend.

I know a guy who had a 00’ XJ with the dual cats right at the manifold that got clogged up and he just gutted them. Then I, I mean my friend, put the spark plug foulers on and never had an issue.

Being this truck sees lots long distance, off road only towing, I’m leery to do something similar. But I also hate to drop $800 on freakin converters.
 
I can't speak to that one specifically, but the computers usually have a ramp built into the catalytic converter tables to account for the cats being less efficient as they age. It compares the value of the front O2 to the value of the rear O2 to make sure the cats are working correctly. However it sounds like you fell out of spec anyway. Removing the cats doesn't fix anything. You'd either have to replace with new or modify the rear O2 bung so that sensor isn't in the exhaust stream.
 
I know a guy with 2 converters he doesn't need :D
 
you can buy universal cats pretty cheap, and just weld them in.
Jody Treadway said:
Buy 2 Magnaflow universal cats and weld them in.
You need cats so the O2 sensor signals allow proper AF ratio calculations. If you only had an upstream 02, different story entirely.
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x2. you can get universal cats for well under $100.
 
I prefer to keep the cats because the smell is terrible if you don't. My tune is pretty much nuts on AFR throughout and it still smelled like crap without them. Although, even with cats, I still only use the front 02 sensors. I removed the rear ones via the tune.

I'm running some universal, high-flow, 3" in/out cats. Not worried about the 3 hp that they rob me of :D
 
I read that these trucks are bad about throwing codes with anything other than OEM cats from GM, glad to hear universal cats seem to be working.
 
77GreenMachine said:
I read that these trucks are bad about throwing codes with anything other than OEM cats from GM, glad to hear universal cats seem to be working.
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Jeeps are the same way. My wife's ZJ needed the cat replaced. 4 years on an $80 Magnaflow universal later and no issues.
 
how much does an plug anti-fouler cost again?

oh, Ive said too much?
Carry on
 
Not cheap enough for me to ignore the smell of the exhaust with no cats on it :D
 
NCJeeplover said:
We've had 20 converters stolen off of trucks at work, and the local exhaust shop has done them all for 150-200 bucks. That was dropped off and picked up.
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20?!?!?

Holy hell...someone please have a talk with these guys and ask them where they're taking them......for @BigClay :huggy:
 
I missed the train earlier....so like a hobo!

That rear axle hates you!

Shift load. Negligible results.

Flatten dove tail. Extensive and possibly weaker done poorly.

Small lift. Will help but not solve distribution. Done this on more than one trailer btw. In your case the tube under perches does fit best. Watch how you tie in the ends for stress fatigue along weld seams.

Small lift and shift axle. What's needed for best result. Now you have a unicorn and possible hard sell after the fact.

Me personally. Buy different trailer. Sell current. Thread will then come alive for truck related.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
I missed the train earlier....so like a hobo!

That rear axle hates you!

Shift load. Negligible results.

Flatten dove tail. Extensive and possibly weaker done poorly.

Small lift. Will help but not solve distribution. Done this on more than one trailer btw. In your case the tube under perches does fit best. Watch how you tie in the ends for stress fatigue along weld seams.

Small lift and shift axle. What's needed for best result. Now you have a unicorn and possible hard sell after the fact.

Me personally. Buy different trailer. Sell current. Thread will then come alive for truck related.
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I had planned you use square tube to lift the trailer this weekend. But I got nervous about something going wrong being I have a trip next weekend. So yesterday I drilled another 1” hole in my coupler to lower the front 2.5”

That should help it out a little, I will hook it up and test it today. Then I haven’t changed anything major, and can still sell it if need be. I still wouldn’t mind selling it and just getting the brand new Kaufman I really wanted anyway.
 
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Looking back at the trailer you were looking for vs what you got; what would the difference be? Or now that you have one this size, are you wanting a different size?

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paradisePWoffrd said:
Looking back at the trailer you were looking for vs what you got; what would the difference be? Or now that you have one this size, are you wanting a different size?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
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Only difference would be brand new everything, and I would get it ordered 26’ with all straight deck and no dove. Probably not worth doing that really though. I think after lowering this coupler it may solve all my issues. I was actually able to lower the coupler a little over 3”.

I have a ton of stuff to do today, so later I plan to hook it up and get it on a level slot to see the difference. I’ll also pull out of my drive way to see if it still scrapes.
 
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