CTD No Start

Is this the new long block or the original? What is your compression like?
 
water/crap-fuel in tank?

Honestly I know little about diesel engines (compared to many here) but sounds to me like you hav the bases covered
 
Galen,

how well charged are the batteries (you are running dual batt's I hope)? cranking RPM can have a great effect on starting, low batteries will not create the speed nessesary for proper compression. (and be frustraiting as hell when trying to bleed/start after a repair )

let them charge for a few hours, then try again. having a booster/charger would also be of help.

You haven't had the injection pump out have you? Ken had the issue of the woodruf key falling out when reinstalling the gear to the pump, thus creating a definite out of time issue.
If you've done this, it might be worth checking.
 
Original motor, new injectors. All cyl are near 500psi (there is a post listing the specifics from last week). New Fuel filters, new lines. New batteries (cooked one of the old ones) Both, rated at more than factory CCA. I charge them both overnight after a long day of cranking.
 
lomodyj said:
Original motor, new injectors. All cyl are near 500psi (there is a post listing the specifics from last week). New Fuel filters, new lines. New batteries (cooked one of the old ones) Both, rated at more than factory CCA. I charge them both overnight after a long day of cranking.
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Galen,
After I left your house I thought of somthing. you said you looped the return line back to the input of the polack. I am wondering if you just keep recycling the air bubbles around and around instead of send them back to the tank.
 
jph0913 said:
How are those functions related?
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Body control module won't let many of those items activate unless it knows the engine is running.


Galen - is it getting air? Would be pretty easy to pull the rubber hose at the intake horn and see that it's sucking in... That's a long shot tho.

I'm betting the pump isn't generating enough pressure to break past the pop-off pressure on the injectors and fire them.
 
Rich said:
Galen - is it getting air? Would be pretty easy to pull the rubber hose at the intake horn and see that it's sucking in... That's a long shot tho.
I'm betting the pump isn't generating enough pressure to break past the pop-off pressure on the injectors and fire them.
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Yes, it's getting air. Pulled the intake at the rubber connector and it draws hard, but still no start.

I'm waiting on my fuel pressure guage to get here...Once I have it installed I should have a better indication.

When I pull the fuel line bolt at the injector back (exposing the connection) and crank, it will squirt fuel on the underside of the hood...
 
lomodyj said:
When I pull the fuel line bolt at the injector back (exposing the connection) and crank, it will squirt fuel on the underside of the hood...
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Right, but there needs to be a certain amount of pressure in the line (ALOT) before the injector will squirt fuel. My bet is you're not getting that pressure.
 
O.K. Gotta act like a carpenter tomorrow. But when that's done I'll start on the IP...Pull the one off the longblock in the garage and swap it in for mine...Any tips or tricks not found in the DSM?
 
Problem found...

Took the injector pump over to Diesel Injection of Cary...Several hours of teardown...($$$) Govenor is held together with duct tape...Plungers shot...Cam worn...

"Looks like this pump has 1/2 million miles on it"

Looks like it's cost prohibitive to rebuild.

:bounce2: :bounce: :bounce2: :bounce: :bounce2: :bounce:
 
lomodyj said:
Problem found...
Took the injector pump over to Diesel Injection of Cary...Several hours of teardown...($$$) Govenor is held together with duct tape...Plungers shot...Cam worn...
"Looks like this pump has 1/2 million miles on it"
Looks like it's cost prohibitive to rebuild.
:bounce2: :bounce: :bounce2: :bounce: :bounce2: :bounce:
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Good to hear but it sucks!!!! You now know the cause... You going to use the other pump?
Jon
 
How much is a rebuild on a P pump at DIS?

Seems like Ken was saying it wouldn't be too bad for a VE pump (first gen)
 
thecarman said:
How much is a rebuild on a P pump at DIS?
Seems like Ken was saying it wouldn't be too bad for a VE pump (first gen)
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Depends a lot on what parts you need. Mine started with just needing a govenor rebuild ~$1100. But when the plungers were added it went to ~$3000.00 and when the cam was added it was..."Don't ask..."
 
CTD injection pumps

Ok, I know 2 folks here have had pump probs, never really heard back with follow ups.

Whats the end result ? dead pumps ?

Once you got the pumps rebuilt/ replaced, what was learned about the diag process?

Once you have a working pump, did things work as advertised ?

I know of another truck with a possible headgasket issue, waiting to hear more about it too.

Having delt mostly with late model GM and Toyota industrial diesels, I'm more curious about the others out there, more for my own education than anything else.

enlighten us please
 
Mine was the pump plungers. As best I could tell from the nice folks at Diesel Injection of Cary, thier best guess was my pump was on it's way out. The P/O wasn't interested in spending the big bucs on rebuilding it and had it "duct taped" back together. I then bought it...and dumped some not so great grease into it...and the rest is history. I purchased a reman pump off ebay, was already built with the #10 plate and 3k GSK that I wanted...so It went in as a unit...(rebuild on mine was going to start at $3000. Reman pump off ebay $1600.)

Bolted it all up, bled, bled, bled. And if fired almost right a way. Had major leak issues from several of the injector hold downs, and some leaks from the fuel line nuts. Still chasing what looks like a hold down on the #6 (whooo, hooo....Gotta pull all the fuel lines and return line for that one). But, it runs like a scalded dog now. I've had it up to northern VA, pullled to URE twice and run it back and forth to Lewisburg a hundered times...It's doing well.
 
lomodyj said:
Bolted it all up, bled, bled, bled. And if fired almost right a way. Had major leak issues from several of the injector hold downs, and some leaks from the fuel line nuts. Still chasing what looks like a hold down on the #6 (whooo, hooo....Gotta pull all the fuel lines and return line for that one). But, it runs like a scalded dog now. I've had it up to northern VA, pullled to URE twice and run it back and forth to Lewisburg a hundered times...It's doing well.
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Awesome, glad you got it sorted out, and that it wasn't more serious.

How deep has Keith gone with his truck ? he messed with it yet ?

Curious to know his compression numbers, he started it for me while I was there, and it pretty much instantly pressurized the cooling system, almost a dead giveaway there. also wondering what is causing the RPM creep.
 
Blkvoodoo said:
How deep has Keith gone with his truck ? he messed with it yet ?
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I don't think he's touched it since you were there. I think his plan was to start on it this weekend...but it's gonna be cold playing in his driveway on Saturday....
 
I was at Keiths the other night and he was supposed to start last sunday but it rained :(

So not sure when he is gonna start on it
 
BIGWOODY said:
Water in the grease will trash one of those pumps.
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John, aka Stump, heats the oil in a 55 gallon drum with water heating elements to boil the water out. I am not sure what temperture he heats the oil to. He collects oil from pretty much anywhere and has gotten a wide variety of grades. Might want to look into something like this if you are not doing it. I'll point him to this thread.

DK
 
I have a pale heater that I bought on EBay for $45 it will heat up about half of a 30 gal drum. It would heat the whole thing but it is not long enough to reach the bottom. I have had A few issues with water. I make sure I drain my filters once a week to make sure. I am currently trying to find a hot water heater to use for this purpose. Also the quality of the oil has made a big difference in the filtering process. One place I get it from it is very dirty and it clog’s my pre filters fast. The other is very clear.

I have to heat it up to over 100 degrees to filter it or it will take forever to pass even though a clean filter. When hot the oil passes thought the filter like water. I have around 4000 miles on my conversion since sept.
 
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