Engine will not fire after Inj Pump rebuild?? NEED HELP

saf-t scissors said:
Well, I dunno... but it sounds like you need to back the fawk up and start over from the beginning.
From what I'm reading, you've got a no-start with an unknown-condition injection pump with fawked up seals and an improperly-sized woodruff key. You're not sure the pump is timed correctly. You think it's bled, but elsewhere Ken was talking about starting it on a single Optima yellow top. IME, the likelihood of getting the fuel system bled on a single battery is between slim and none.
When we replaced the pump in the 6.2, it took two brand-new 1100CA batteries with generous recharging times from a wall charger *plus* a jump from a running vehicle just to have enough battery to crank it until the injector lines were cleared. That truck fires immediately under normal circumstances, but it had to sit there for a damn long time and sputter before it lit the first time.
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I will say this.. Everytime we took the front apart or the pump off we made sure that everything was lined up like it was the very 1st time.. and YES I am sure we have it at TDC(top dead center) so NO we did no take the engine apart incorrectly...

And like John said yes we have gone threw a few batteries and yes we have to charge the batteries every night.. I even bought a new 1000CCA battery to use as the primary..

But for now the Truck is at my house thanks to Richard( last nigt) so it will sit and stay until I get back in 3 weeks..
 
Oh, I remembered another gem for bleeding the lines.. turn your shop air down to ~5psi. shove the air nozzle and some rags into the fuel full neck.. this will *slightly* pressurize the tank & lines and really make it easy to bleed...

P.S. It would / does take me an hour just to get the timing cover off... you da man!
 
Rich said:
Oh, I remembered another gem for bleeding the lines.. turn your shop air down to ~5psi. shove the air nozzle and some rags into the fuel full neck.. this will *slightly* pressurize the tank & lines and really make it easy to bleed...
P.S. It would / does take me an hour just to get the timing cover off... you da man!
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NIce Tip

PS: we took all the pullys off and timing cover off, then took inj pump gear off rotated shaft and put it all back together in 1.5 hrs :)
 
start

I think I read early on this is a 5sp. If so, and you are sure everything is "right", bleed the system as best you can. Tow bar or strap it to another truck and tow in 3rd or 4th gear until it fires. It may take a mile or two, but it will run if the system is sound. I have done this several times on road tractors that were run dry on fuel. We would bleed the system forever and not get them to start. After the first one, we would bleed the sytem and tow it. They would usually start within a half mile.

Having said that, I will say this engine normally will work the air out and fire easily. So be sure the timing is correct before you tow.
 
LARRY SMITH said:
I think I read early on this is a 5sp. If so, and you are sure everything is "right", bleed the system as best you can. Tow bar or strap it to another truck and tow in 3rd or 4th gear until it fires. It may take a mile or two, but it will run if the system is sound. I have done this several times on road tractors that were run dry on fuel. We would bleed the system forever and not get them to start. After the first one, we would bleed the sytem and tow it. They would usually start within a half mile.
Having said that, I will say this engine normally will work the air out and fire easily. So be sure the timing is correct before you tow.
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thats a good idea...
 
The last two pumps we put on CTDs , we just cracked the lines at the injectors until fuel ran out and they fired right up. I'm guessing your lift pump is good? Otherwise I bet you have pump or timing problems.
I used to run my Ford out of fuel often, dual tanks suckered me in to running one dry from time to time. I installed a cheapo' block type fuel pump inline, could throw a switch and it would auto prime the system, just something else to consider.
 
it sounds like you've about eliminated the system being bled by the gallon of diesel on the floor, but i'll throw this out there anyway. do the older 12v cummins have a shraeder valve anywhere in the engine compartment? i know the older IDI navistars do, which makes priming a dry system a breeze if you have a vacuum pump.

pull the stem out, and run the pump a few seconds at a time until you get fuel there. throw the stem back in, crack all the injector lines, and crank till you get fuel at the injectors.

let me know if you need a pump, i have a suitable one you're welcome to borrow.
Oh, I remembered another gem for bleeding the lines.. turn your shop air down to ~5psi. shove the air nozzle and some rags into the fuel full neck.. this will *slightly* pressurize the tank & lines and really make it easy to bleed...
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fwiw, the few times i've tried this only results in building a little pressure in the tank, nothing else. i don't think the rags offer enough of a "solid" connection. again, my only experience in this area is with IDI navistar motors, could work like a charm on a cummins.
 
it's worked well for me in getting fuel to the bleeder on the fuel filter after changing it... Must be a Cummins thing.. ;)
 
Well I can not contain myself..

MY DODGE RUNS AGAIN

and man does it run good..

Yes I put the 3200 spring in with the straight exhaust...

3rd and 4th it takes off..


YIPPPEEEE
 
So what were the issues with the pump ?
 
jph0913 said:
its about time.. it only took 10 weeks:lol:
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hahahahah


Funny part of this is you were right there with me the entire time..

So Thanks for the help
 
truck is running

AWSOME.. So are you going to URE this weekend?


David
 
earlybronco said:
AWSOME.. So are you going to URE this weekend?
David
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that is the plan..

I am gonna clean out camper and make sure trailer is ready. if all goes well I will be there friday night to camp and stay until sunday AM.
 
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