F250 7.3 What have I done.....

I just installed the 87 octane daily/tow tune on my 2012 f250 6.2 the other day. Much better. I don't know about a lot more power, but the way it makes the transmission shift is much better than factory. It keeps it in the power band a lot better I think.
 
Next to the wife’s ‘18 black Passat GT.
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EugeneTheTJ said:
What happened to the tremor desire? Just unavailable?
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The desire is there but the availability and lack of them willing to deal made it a dream not a need. To replace my 09 F150 Lariat would have cost more than this truck. My main desire was for the 7.3 pushrod motor.
 
ghost said:
The desire is there but the availability and lack of them willing to deal made it a dream not a need. To replace my 09 F150 Lariat would have cost more than this truck. My main desire was for the 7.3 pushrod motor.
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So tell us how bad the gas MPGs really are now that you have driven it around :D
 
NickMaul said:
So tell us how bad the gas MPGs really are now that you have driven it around :D
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Only 300 miles. First 200 or so computer was reading 12 - 13. Filled up yesterday for the first time and the computer is reading 14 - 15. Now the computer on my 09 F150 never got above 16. On a side note I passed a 90’s era F250 in extended cab yesterday and it was tiny in comparison to my 4 door F250.
 
ghost said:
Only 300 miles. First 200 or so computer was reading 12 - 13. Filled up yesterday for the first time and the computer is reading 14 - 15. Now the computer on my 09 F150 never got above 16. On a side note I passed a 90’s era F250 in extended cab yesterday and it was tiny in comparison to my 4 door F250.
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Report back after a couple thousand miles with a realistic MPG average please. If the 7.3 will get 14 MPG average combined driving that’s a solid 2+ MPG better than my 5.4 F150.
 
obullfish said:
Report back after a couple thousand miles with a realistic MPG average please. If the 7.3 will get 14 MPG average combined driving that’s a solid 2+ MPG better than my 5.4 F150.
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That is exactly what I plan on doing. Documenting my ownership. So far it’s been not a whole lot worse than the F150 5.4 in mpg. The smiles from the rumble of the motor make it hard to keep my foot out of it. Anyone have any suggestions on when it’s safe to hook the Jeep up and tow with it? I was thinking I’d put 1k miles on it first.
 
ghost said:
Anyone have any suggestions on when it’s safe to hook the Jeep up and tow with it? I was thinking I’d put 1k miles on it first.
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That's much more generous than I would be with it. If it was lucky I might look in the manual and see if it had a recommended time before towing, but even that's a stretch :lol:.

Duane
 
I would say it’s more than ready. Think about fleet trucks and specialty service trucks, they get loaded down and go into service right off the line. We just had 2 Chevy 4500 trucks delivered to my work last week, showed up with 200 miles on them and were instantly loaded down with about 18k the first day.
 
77GreenMachine said:
I would say it’s more than ready. Think about fleet trucks and specialty service trucks, they get loaded down and go into service right off the line. We just had 2 Chevy 4500 trucks delivered to my work last week, showed up with 200 miles on them and were instantly loaded down with about 18k the first day.
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Didn’t think about that.
 
Personally i change the oil/filter of anything new at about half the normal first interval. so 3000 miles id change at 1500 and then 3000. then normal after that. however i personally know fleet PSD trucks with 400 to 600k miles, that went to work first day and got changed every 30-40k miles.
 
83oldyoda4x4 said:
Personally i change the oil/filter of anything new at about half the normal first interval. so 3000 miles id change at 1500 and then 3000. then normal after that. however i personally know fleet PSD trucks with 400 to 600k miles, that went to work first day and got changed every 30-40k miles.
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Not a bad idea. I’ve only owned 2 brand new things in my life. An 07 GSX-R 750, and a Suzuki LTR450. On the initial oil change on both of those (600 miles for the bike, 20 hours on the four wheeler) there were heavy metal deposits in both of their oils.
Me and a buddy bought four wheelers together for racing. We asked about break in and they said “you ever seen anyone break in a weed-eater or a chain saw? Break it in the same way it’s gonna run most of the time, but change the break in oil very soon” and that’s what we done. From the dealer to the track on the same day, raced in stock form the first race.

I will admit though, replacing a chain saw vs a truck engine is very different. But that’s what warranties are for!
 
I always just follow manufacture recommendations on oil changes. However you have some good points. First mod come Tuesday with an appointment at Linex. Been researching bed lights. The ports are in the bed so why not add the lights. From what I’ve read they use two different harnesses. Why would they not have one harness and just add the lights and switch?
 
ghost said:
I always just follow manufacture recommendations on oil changes. However you have some good points. First mod come Tuesday with an appointment at Linex. Been researching bed lights. The ports are in the bed so why not add the lights. From what I’ve read they use two different harnesses. Why would they not have one harness and just add the lights and switch?
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Assuming you mean bed lights for cargo? Most vehicles use the same main harness, so perhaps you can find the plug along the frame to just plug in the missing portion?

I just went thru something slightly similar on my new to me Chevy. It did not have cruise control, but I read that it was as simple as adding the the right turn signal switch with cruise, and the plug was sometimes right there in the column and sometimes not. Lucky me, it was not. So I found one article, only one, where someone showed how the got a switch and the wires and pinned it into the body control module (BCM). Also lucky me, those wires weren’t available for purchase. So I found a suburban being parted out, cut out the wires and main harness plug and got what I needed. I brought it home and took pics, then de-pinned it from the main plug and pinned it into my BCM plug. Might sound hard but was pretty simple. The computer, and the hard parts were all on my truck, but GM saved $5 I guess by not adding. By adding the switch and wiring harness, I now have cruise control.

I rambled all that to say, the provisions for those lights are probably already there in some form on your truck.

If not, spend $14 plus a switch here
Nilight TR-08 Rail 8PCS 24LED... Amazon product ASIN B07YZFN925
 
CLRracer said:
That's much more generous than I would be with it. If it was lucky I might look in the manual and see if it had a recommended time before towing, but even that's a stretch :lol:.

Duane
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This.
My 2020 3500 has 39xx miles on it now. 34xx of those has been in front of either my GN or camper.
 
So I’m at about 1500 miles and 3 or 4 tanks. Towed a four wheeler and three wheeler to my parents land in Aiken. Didn’t even feel like anything was holding it back. Today went to Chaplin to get a car from my step son to sell for him. Empty the fuel computer stayed at a steady 13. On the way back with the Honda it dropped to 12. Getting on 26 I had to mash it. Got to 70 easy by the time I was merging.
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