Full hydro steering lock up problems....help

what is your first language?
Romanian for 10yrs
Forget full hydro and shit, this is problem number 1
Explain Please!!
Yes, you can stretch the spring or put some hard washers behind it to partially compress it. This raises the amount of psi the pump needs to crack it over relief and send oil back to tank. You need a guage it it. 1500-1700 psi worked well for me in the past.
So do this mod but still need to confirm it with a gauge right?
And also, what type of -6an fittings can I get locally to allow for 1/2" return hose? I guess since the system is empty and I'm going to mess with the pump piston, might as well do the bigger return lines while I'm at it. I'm so far into this stupid steering problem guess I'm in it for the long haul now haha (true though)
 
I'm already highly considering it but I still belive/know that the ram isn't the issue.
Here me out, I'm not arguing or denying yours or anyone elses superior knowledge of Hydraulic systems by no means, but I ran this exact Orbital and Ram on the Mountaineer which was heavier, had 42s with same wheels, same axles, welded f&r, and it turned perfectly fine. Now it had a Ford Pump (whatever kind that is but obviously different), single basic cooler, 3/8 return lines and these same type of hydro lines with fittings made at NAPA so I know this "mis-matched" system is not perfect but I know it works...it's proven itself in the other rig I had, that's all I'm saying.
And the Mountaineer pump I didn't even mod it or no big resi, just factory pump with little tank so probably half this amount of fluid and still ran basic power steering fluid mixed with ATF I'm sure
 
I'm already highly considering it but I still belive/know that the ram isn't the issue.
Here me out, I'm not arguing or denying yours or anyone elses superior knowledge of Hydraulic systems by no means, but I ran this exact Orbital and Ram on the Mountaineer which was heavier, had 42s with same wheels, same axles, welded f&r, and it turned perfectly fine. Now it had a Ford Pump (whatever kind that is but obviously different), single basic cooler, 3/8 return lines and these same type of hydro lines with fittings made at NAPA so I know this "mis-matched" system is not perfect but I know it works...it's proven itself in the other rig I had, that's all I'm saying.
And the Mountaineer pump I didn't even mod it or no big resi, just factory pump with little tank so probably half this amount of fluid and still ran basic power steering fluid mixed with ATF I'm sure

I mean I've been saying it's a pump issue this whole time, but I'm also saying you now see why a single ended ram sucks, even with a good pump its going to be harder to turn left and never have good steering feel.

Also, this blazer even with the small amount of weight taken off the back still weighs more than a ford explorer.
 
I'm already highly considering it but I still belive/know that the ram isn't the issue.
Here me out, I'm not arguing or denying yours or anyone elses superior knowledge of Hydraulic systems by no means, but I ran this exact Orbital and Ram on the Mountaineer which was heavier, had 42s with same wheels, same axles, welded f&r, and it turned perfectly fine. Now it had a Ford Pump (whatever kind that is but obviously different), single basic cooler, 3/8 return lines and these same type of hydro lines with fittings made at NAPA so I know this "mis-matched" system is not perfect but I know it works...it's proven itself in the other rig I had, that's all I'm saying.
And the Mountaineer pump I didn't even mod it or no big resi, just factory pump with little tank so probably half this amount of fluid and still ran basic power steering fluid mixed with ATF I'm sure
The mountaineer "system" is not the same as this "system", so nothing is proven.
 
Also, this blazer even with the small amount of weight taken off the back still weighs more than a ford explorer.
The weight taken off the back actually adds MORE weight to the front because of the fulcrum effect.
 
I mean I've been saying it's a pump issue this whole time,
sorry I was not getting that...I thought it was a "possibility" but not a for sure thing.
So can this "P" Pump be made to work with modding the spring inside or do I say screw it and mount a TC pump which I have several laying around and call it a day
 
sorry I was not getting that...I thought it was a "possibility" but not a for sure thing.
So can this "P" Pump be made to work with modding the spring inside or do I say screw it and mount a TC pump which I have several laying around and call it a day



P pumps were the king of full hydro pumps for two decades. You drilled out the flow orifice but left the pressure stock, of course it sucks
 

P pumps were the king of full hydro pumps for two decades. You drilled out the flow orifice but left the pressure stock, of course it sucks
ok was not aware of that. Is this pump probably still good then or should I warranty it and start fresh with another new one? Would it have gotten "weak" or anything for the few hours it's ran with the setup you've seen?
 
So you hacked a part
now it doesn't work
and you're going to warranty it because you fucked it up ?

Nice !

I'm done helping.
Who said anything about screwing it up? I asked but clearly it still works just fine. Plus, my auto parts guy has warrantied parts anyway when I've told em before it was self inflicted..but I've also paid just as well no fuss about it. When you spend a lot of money with the parts guys, they usually help you out, mine have always taken care of me and I reward them as well..2way street bro
 
Who said anything about screwing it up? I asked but clearly it still works just fine. Plus, my auto parts guy has warrantied parts anyway when I've told em before it was self inflicted..but I've also paid just as well no fuss about it. When you spend a lot of money with the parts guys, they usually help you out, mine have always taken care of me and I reward them as well..2way street bro

The parts guy is sending them back to the mfg, he isn't eating the money. The mfg gets it back, then they realize its a paperweight now for them to sell it.
 
The parts guy is sending them back to the mfg, he isn't eating the money. The mfg gets it back, then they realize its a paperweight now for them to sell it.
That is not exactly how it works. Yes, the parts guy doesnt care, he is just a flunky. Having worked in the parts business, and for a manufacturer, if the pump comes back and they determine its not their fault, the retailer will likely eat the cost.
 
That is not exactly how it works. Yes, the parts guy doesnt care, he is just a flunky. Having worked in the parts business, and for a manufacturer, if the pump comes back and they determine its not their fault, the retailer will likely eat the cost.

Thanks for the correction! Learned something today now!
 
ok was not aware of that. Is this pump probably still good then or should I warranty it and start fresh with another new one? Would it have gotten "weak" or anything for the few hours it's ran with the setup you've seen?

Yeah I agree with the others I don't like to pawn my fuckups off on someone else. That being said your pump should be fine, and if you're going to warranty it anyway why not try and modify the one you have
 
Yeah I agree with the others I don't like to pawn my fuckups off on someone else. That being said your pump should be fine, and if you're going to warranty it anyway why not try and modify the one you have
I am, I've already bought 2 pumps so im not in a hurry to buy a 3rd haha. First one got warranty but it died right after startup..it was a reman. The last 2 are new
 

P pumps were the king of full hydro pumps for two decades. You drilled out the flow orifice but left the pressure stock, of course it sucks
Thank you sir for your help btw, I did the spring/washer mod to the pump, and wow, it turns pretty darn easy and smooth now. Also changed my return lines to 1/2" instead of 3/8, got rid of one of the coolers and it's all up and running. With front locked in, on pavement standing still, turns pretty good. Still a tiny harder to the left but I know that's expected with single ended ram. Thank for the guidance!!
 
Thank you sir for your help btw, I did the spring/washer mod to the pump, and wow, it turns pretty darn easy and smooth now. Also changed my return lines to 1/2" instead of 3/8, got rid of one of the coolers and it's all up and running. With front locked in, on pavement standing still, turns pretty good. Still a tiny harder to the left but I know that's expected with single ended ram. Thank for the guidance!!

Awesome.
 
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