"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

So the caps are the same size, but the joints are wider, correct?
Then, based on the abundance of information we have given you in this thread, what size joint fits that yoke?

We'll lay it on the table, but we won't feed ya buddy.
 
marty79 said:
I did it woohoo, it's mounted and wow, turned out just as u described here. Whew
Click to expand...

Glad you did it because now I can’t find those measurements
 
Jody Treadway said:
So the caps are the same size, but the joints are wider, correct?
Then, based on the abundance of information we have given you in this thread, what size joint fits that yoke?

We'll lay it on the table, but we won't feed ya buddy.
Click to expand...
It's only wider one way, the other way is normal jeep width..1310 joint..(bout to go double check lol)
 
Gotta say looks freaking awesome. I know I'm weird
IMG_20180304_182836384_LL.jpg
IMG_20180304_182826181_LL.jpg
IMG_20180304_182807438_LL.jpg
 
Now take the springs out of it and cycle the suspension through the range of travel, check for any interference. And at this point just make room. I would even put the driveshaft in it and check full stuff to full droop to make sure it’s not hitting that upper link.
 
Just kidding you need a track bar now and set up your drag link. Then you can cycle the suspension and check for interference with anything.
 
Jody Treadway said:
So the caps are the same size, but the joints are wider, correct?
Then, based on the abundance of information we have given you in this thread, what size joint fits that yoke?

We'll lay it on the table, but we won't feed ya buddy.
Click to expand...

Curious to see who will figure it out :D
 
Stuntman Autoworks said:
If he doesn't use one at each corner and only one in the middle the way you suggest then when only one side is compressed and the other extends the shock will be what limits the droop on that end, not the middle limit strap. That kind of negates what you said about not using the shock as a limit strap. If you mount it correctly your tires shouldn't get into your limit strap.
Click to expand...

thats exactly how I have mine setup; performs double duty very well. the center limits total axle total droop ,and the bumpstops on the opposite side limits the others droop prior to shock max extension.
 
Jody Treadway said:
So the caps are the same size, but the joints are wider, correct?
Then, based on the abundance of information we have given you in this thread, what size joint fits that yoke?

We'll lay it on the table, but we won't feed ya buddy.
Click to expand...

Spicer 1342 1/2.
Final answer...
 
If you're going to run a bastard u joint then you better carry a spare. A 1310x1350 u joint is weaker than a regular nongreasable 1310 spicer.
Ask me how I know :driver:
 
Chuckman said:
thats exactly how I have mine setup; performs double duty very well. the center limits total axle total droop ,and the bumpstops on the opposite side limits the others droop prior to shock max extension.
Click to expand...
How much shorter is your strap compared to the droop possible if it was limited by the shocks?
 
A few posts back he said both sides had the same cap diameter, but one was wider. Sounds like to me that the pinion uses a 1330 joint, not a 1350, which has a larger cap diameter than a 1310.

Regardless, I'd change the pinion yoke and just run 1310s.
 
a "wider" 1310 would be 1330, right?
1310/30 share the same cap size but are different widths.

Ujoints.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Jody Treadway said:
So the caps are the same size, but the joints are wider, correct?
Then, based on the abundance of information we have given you in this thread, what size joint fits that yoke?

We'll lay it on the table, but we won't feed ya buddy.
Click to expand...

So much for reading comprehension. :shaking:

Croatan_Kid said:
A few posts back he said both sides had the same cap diameter, but one was wider. Sounds like to me that the pinion uses a 1330 joint, not a 1350, which has a larger cap diameter than a 1310.

Regardless, I'd change the pinion yoke and just run 1310s.
Click to expand...

ckruzer said:
a "wider" 1310 would be 1330, right?
1310/30 share the same cap size but are different widths.

Ujoints.jpeg
Click to expand...
 
Admittedly... I did not read the whole thread... So if this was covered, my bad

BUT... Why not just upgrade to a big ass u joint? Get a 1410 yoke for the drive shaft and get one of those slick 1410 flanges for the axles. F straps and u bolts, right in the A!
 
BigGreenMonster said:
Admittedly... I did not read the whole thread... So if this was covered, my bad

BUT... Why not just upgrade to a big ass u joint? Get a 1410 yoke for the drive shaft and get one of those slick 1410 flanges for the axles. F straps and u bolts, right in the A!
Click to expand...
I will upgrade down the road once I upgrade my tcase but for now just wanna get it going then focus on those weak links
 
marty79 said:
I will upgrade down the road once I upgrade my tcase but for now just wanna get it going then focus on those weak links
Click to expand...

Ahhhh... Got ya. Makes sense to me. If you end up with one of those conversation joints carry some extras so you have them.
 
BigGreenMonster said:
Ahhhh... Got ya. Makes sense to me. If you end up with one of those conversation joints carry some extras so you have them.
Click to expand...
I'm gonna pick up couple unless I find a 60yoke for one solid joint in the next week.
 
Time to start the rear...oh snap
 
Loganwayne said:
I may have a 1310 for a 60 and 14 bolt I’m going to 1410 I’ll check sometime to see if they are 1310 or 1330


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Sweet, thanks dude
 
Back
Top