"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

It's pointless to try and "link calculator" a radius arm 3 link, especially on an xj. Just make sure your top link doesn't hit the "frame" on compression, make sure you've got bushings instead of rod ends, get rid of the round coil insert and put a limit strap on each corner and finish the fuckin thing. Ten thousand cherocars around the world successfully run the same "long arm" setup just copy what they're doing.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
I would suggest capping the back of that upper mount. I can see them twisting how they are currently. Put a plate between the two, behind the joint, that also tires back into the lower across the top.
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Oh it will be beef, it's just a mock-up
 
Chuckman said:
that steel paper towel tube welded in vertically inside the spring - whats that all about?, it will catch the inside of the springs with any amount of L/R flex and make hella noise. go ahead and take it out now. were you intending that to be integrated into a bump stop?
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I've always used those to keep spring lined up when flexed out. Yeah makes a little noise but I don't want it to only droop the length of spring as that isn't going to be a whole lot so I extend those, smooth them out like I did and spring slides on them easy back to top seat.
Bottom of spring will be held secure in place to not move at all
 
Final question on front before I finalize it..is it just me or is there plenty of room there for perfect triangulation of upper links back to those mid mounts (if you can see em). If not scratch it and I'll continue with radius arm setup tomorrow.
(Don't pick at my truss, it works lol) I don't like it either
IMG_20180303_225159309_LL.jpg
 
If you are running a panhard bar like you need to then don't run your "upper" to the middle, you aren't trying to control lateral movement with that link nor are you trying to fight your track/panhard bar.
 
braxton357 said:
If you are running a panhard bar like you need to then don't run your "upper" to the middle, you aren't trying to control lateral movement with that link nor are you trying to fight your track/panhard bar.
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Wait..for 3 link radius that's where it goes but more to the pass side but I was wondering if there looks to be room for 4 link triangulated to not run track bar...hope that's clearer.
I just doing last thought of uppers before finalizing tomorrow
 
If your thinking of a triangulated upper set of control arms why don’t you run a single upper arm on the drivers side for a true 3 link. The radius arm style is good. A true 3 link is better. Look back at the photo of my XJ. It’s easy and packaging it isn’t the hard. Just wondering I guess
 
marty79 said:
Wait..for 3 link radius that's where it goes but more to the pass side but I was wondering if there looks to be room for 4 link triangulated to not run track bar...hope that's clearer.
I just doing last thought of uppers before finalizing tomorrow
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You cant run a triangulated 4 link with the steering system you have. You will have massive bump steer. The axle being triangulated will want to travel straight up and down and the steering draglink will want to travel in an arc as the axle comes up. Thats the reason the trackbar and the draglink need to be the same angle and as close to the same length as each other to limit bumpsteer.

If you want to go to a triangulated 4 link you will have to go to Hydro steering.
 
Stuntman Autoworks said:
You cant run a triangulated 4 link with the steering system you have. You will have massive bump steer. The axle being triangulated will want to travel straight up and down and the steering draglink will want to travel in an arc as the axle comes up. Thats the reason the trackbar and the draglink need to be the same angle and as close to the same length as each other to limit bumpsteer.

If you want to go to a triangulated 4 link you will have to go to Hydro steering.
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Oh my bad and thank you. Now I get it and makes perfect sense.
Now I see why it's doable in the rear as more common.
skyhighZJ said:
why don’t you run a single upper arm on the drivers side for a true 3 link
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Isn't there more room on pass side? I'm worried it would interfere with track bar bracket coming down and over, or at least too tight a fit?
 
marty79 said:
Oh my bad and thank you. Now I get it and makes perfect sense.
Now I see why it's doable in the rear as more common.

Isn't there more room on pass side? I'm worried it would interfere with track bar bracket coming down and over, or at least too tight a fit?
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The trackbar will be in front of your coil spring/axle. Place your upper bracket on top of the axle truss where the joint's bolt is hanging just off the rear of the truss. They shouldn't interfere.

While placing the upper on the pass side might be easier, it won't control the wrap/twist from the torque as well. This could cause the pinion to wrap some under throttle, and will place a ton of force on your control arms.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
The trackbar will be in front of your coil spring/axle. Place your upper bracket on top of the axle truss where the joint's bolt is hanging just off the rear of the truss. They shouldn't interfere.

While placing the upper on the pass side might be easier, it won't control the wrap/twist from the torque as well. This could cause the pinion to wrap some under throttle, and will place a ton of force on your control arms.
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Ah gotcha thanks
 
Looking into it now
 
There is more room on the pass side but you need the upper on the drivers side.
 
I know some of you see John Fuller's posts and still roll your eyes. I know several of you want to stay as far away from him and his fabrication as possible. But to those of you who have stepped up and offered very valuable advice without being condescending, without it being obvious that you're feeling Superior. To those people I really appreciate what you've done and I take my hat off to you. You restored my faith that this is a community of people who want to help and not a community who are selfish with the knowledge and only are decent too the Clique that they feel are important. I mean if you can't be nice to the guy who doesn't benefit you at all then that really shows what a shit head you are in life.

To those who've shared, many of us are learning from your knowledge. Things we never thought to ask. To that, I thank you all very much
 
marty79 said:
Oh my bad and thank you. Now I get it and makes perfect sense.
Now I see why it's doable in the rear as more common.

Isn't there more room on pass side? I'm worried it would interfere with track bar bracket coming down and over, or at least too tight a fit?
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You could also run a parallel 4 link almost like the stock setup. That way the forces and loads are transferred over more links and joints. You will still have to run a trackbar to keep the axle centered but it would be stronger.
 
CasterTroy said:
I know some of you see John Fuller's posts and still roll your eyes. I know several of you want to stay as far away from him and his fabrication as possible. But to those of you who have stepped up and offered very valuable advice without being condescending, without it being obvious that you're feeling Superior. To those people I really appreciate what you've done and I take my hat off to you. You restored my faith that this is a community of people who want to help and not a community who are selfish with the knowledge and only are decent too the Clique that they feel are important. I mean if you can't be nice to the guy who doesn't benefit you at all then that really shows what a shit head you are in life.

To those who've shared, many of us are learning from your knowledge. Things we never thought to ask. To that, I thank you all very much
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Well said!

And John is listening (some) and improving. Impressive thread!
 
CasterTroy said:
I know some of you see John Fuller's posts and still roll your eyes. I know several of you want to stay as far away from him and his fabrication as possible. But to those of you who have stepped up and offered very valuable advice without being condescending, without it being obvious that you're feeling Superior. To those people I really appreciate what you've done and I take my hat off to you. You restored my faith that this is a community of people who want to help and not a community who are selfish with the knowledge and only are decent too the Clique that they feel are important. I mean if you can't be nice to the guy who doesn't benefit you at all then that really shows what a shit head you are in life.

To those who've shared, many of us are learning from your knowledge. Things we never thought to ask. To that, I thank you all very much
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Wow, thank you to all very much.
Ron said:
Well said!

And John is listening (some) and improving. Impressive thread!
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I try to apply what is taught.
 
As mentioned above the triangulated 4 link will not work. You need a pan hard bar to keep the axle and the steering in the same orientation.

When you are saying 3 link, are you talking about mounting the lover link to the frame and axle then running the top link from the axle back to the lower link? Effectively making a radius arm? I do noy like those but I think you can build them to be pretty strong. You still need a track bar tho so it will work with your steering.
 
I'm undecided but right now trying to see if full regular 3 link fits..it's tight on the body for mount..I'll get pics of a mock-up when I get home.

And who sells these "conversion" ujoints, auto zone looking at me like I'm stupid lol
 
Auto zone will sell the conversion joint but you'll have to take the part number in with you for them to find it.

A upper link should/will fit on the drivers or passenger side if you keep it tight to the frame and run the bolt vertical.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
Last 3 link that bolted in an XJ I did the driveshaft would just barely missing the upper link bracket. But 3/4” clearance was all it needed to fully cycle without any interference. When I get back home in a little bit I find those crossmember measurements/link mounting tab locations for you.


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marty79 said:
And who sells these "conversion" ujoints, auto zone looking at me like I'm stupid lol
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Don't to that.
Let's say you break a joint on the trail. The chances of finding someone with a spare 1310 or 1350 is exponentially greater than finding someone with a conversion joint.

Do you need a Dana 60 1310 yoke? Did you know the ZJ D44a yoke interchanges with a 60 yoke and is already 1310 series?

Did you ever measure to see what series yokes you currently have? You'll be surprised to see how easy it is to find the correct ones instead of grabbing bastard joints that are a much lower quality than Spicer joints.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
Last 3 link that bolted in an XJ I did the driveshaft would just barely missing the upper link bracket. But 3/4” clearance was all it needed to fully cycle without any interference. When I get back home in a little bit I find those crossmember measurements/link mounting tab locations for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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I did it woohoo, it's mounted and wow, turned out just as u described here. Whew
Jody Treadway said:
Do you need a Dana 60 1310 yoke? Did you know the ZJ D44a yoke interchanges with a 60 yoke and is already 1310 series?
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No I didn't thank you very much I'll look into that. You got any by chance
 
Jody Treadway said:
Did you ever measure to see what series yokes you currently have? You'll be surprised to see how easy it is to find the correct ones instead of grabbing bastard joints that are a much lower quality th
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Yes it is the 1310 regular Jeep joint but longer. Jeep side is 3.25 on driveshaft and yoke side is 3.75 but same size caps if that makes sense
 
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