"Gonna do it right...maybe!!??" Fuller's new XJ build!!!

Jody Treadway said:
Will someone please just add an adjustable torque regulator to their exhaust system please.

I think a 2.25"hose spigot would work just fine. Crack it open for those rockcrawling days and open it wide open for race day.
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I'll give that a shot on my 402 when I get time to work on it again. :D

obullfish said:
iSaddle Sound Exhaust Muffler Pipe Whistle Blow off valve BOV Simulator Size XL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008V5UAJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XXBSAb7QHCRQV
Install one of these at the end of your exhaust pipe and add 100 hp.
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:lol: If that's not the funniest damn thing I've seen all day. You win!
 
Ron said:
I have literally never heard a single person say one good thing about using HREW for exhaust pipe. So I cant comment on that portion. You'd have to ask those people.

The negatives that jump out to me are:
- Size as mentioned.
- Inflexibility, HREW will kink in a bend that thin wall tubing could make (thing axle humps) , assuming you could bend it at all.
- Weight. It will weigh significantly more, adding weight to an already heavy rig. This will be exaggerated since you dont want to solidly mount exhaust pipe (it needs some vibration expansion/contraction room) if you hang it from any standard exhaust hanger it will be challenged to not rip it off the frame. If you do find a hanger that will support it then you have additional swinging mass which is adding stress onto the exhuast manifold where it bolts up. 4.0 Exhaust manifolds aren't exactly known for their strength and resistance to cracking...
- More logistical, you will need a belled end and sleeve to connect to the manifold output. Since the HREW is a different OD a factory coupler wont slide on it. The ID wont match up to you exhaust manifold. If you use a short piece of existing tube from the manifold they wont mate up together properly.
-Finally exhaust tubing is cheap. My local guy charged my son $45 to run dual 2.5" straight pipes on his k5 from headers out. Parts and labor.
You can buy 13' sticks at Advance auto for $20. Why reinvent the wheel to possibly save $20. You will have way more in the adapters to make it work

I can't wait to see how you make it work though, Im sure it will be creative. Build looks good so far, keep it up!
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You left out the key thing. Which is the added weight down low will help his COG.

marty79 said:
That's what I want is torque not hp. I'm trying to build a crawler not LS buggy. More torque is what I'm after for the low end crawl and bumping it. High revs, nah.
Turbo guys been doing DOM exhaust for years now gaining from it due to the resonance and smooth wall bends (like mandrel bent exhaust) so nothing new here just not as common
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Never seen turbo guys do DOM or HREW exhausts. Maybe you mean for the Turbo header itself, but not the exhaust. There are still better choices.
 
John,
I see you finishing your rig and wheeling it a few times. In about 3 rides from now, you will realize it’s really heavy, especially top heavy.
I see you cutting your cage off and making a new one that is more practical, and maybe even good looking with triangles.
Great looking truss and good job on the 4 link. It’s better than a lot I’ve seen.
Keep it up and take your time even though I know you don’t want to. :smokin:
 
Van-go said:
I see you cutting your cage off and making a new one that is more practical, and maybe even good looking with triangles.
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man i hear you on that one and i have to agree....having that said, not a chance in hell! I spent so much time making it and hardly no money involved in it, few more triangles to add to it and call it good. Yeah it's heavy but I've never had an issue with weight. I personally like added weight for stability and planting the rig on general speaking of general trails/crawling. This jeep is going to be pretty low to the ground with a really wide stance with a proper articulating suspension so I'm even less concerned about weight, he's gonna be pretty stable "considering" the weight and such!

I'm building this rig to be straight crawl machine!! Twin cases, torque cam with .60 over on Renix block, 5:13gears when I upgrade to 35splines for front (way down the road lol), longer travel shocks than what I have now. Despite some fun I've had with other 2 rigs and this one the first few trips, this dream rig is going to be designed to crawl and make it up trails but heavy duty enough to handle some rpms when needed for those sloppier trails (the main and only reason I've even taken the time to install these axles the more "proper" way (for John anyway haha)).
When I get some free time soon I'm gonna measure all the cage and it's sizes and actually figure out more accurate weight as you, me and most are very interested to see how much weight is really there lol.
Van-go said:
Great looking truss and good job on the 4 link. It’s better than a lot I’ve seen.
Keep it up and take your time even though I know you don’t want to.
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thanks buddy, I've tried really hard. can't wait to get this thing on the trail!!! Tony's gonna be Grreeeaaaattttt!!
 
BTW, somebody happen to have a Tiger Tail from a halloween costume laying around HAHA but seriously I need one to add to this rig. Just kinda goes with the theme!
 
oh and my exhaust is now 2" hrew with exception of 2 small 10" elbow bends so it should be better overall. Little more low end but should maintain descent upper rpm range. 2" regular exhaust on a 4.0 isn't that small or uncommon so should be good. Figure add about 3 really good big exhaust hangers and should hold up. Can't wait to get fuel line fixed so I can hear it!
 
DSM Turbos said:
Never seen turbo guys do DOM or HREW exhausts. Maybe you mean for the Turbo header itself, but not the exhaust. There are still better choices.
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it's not common but there are. I knew someone specifically do a twin turbo STI 572hp to the wheels, ran 2.5" DOM all the way out from turbo back, sounded freaking amazing. I heard a Chevelle with 2" DOM straight duals, X Pipe on 383 stroker again amazing different kind of tone than the regular muscle car sound you get from the same mufflers. The Tone is one of the biggest reasons to do it besides heat since regular exhaust piping cannot produce same frequencies and resonances. THe smooth inner walls throughout the whole system if bent properly is the performance aspect of it (same as mandrel bent stuff). I'm sure however many wouldn't/don't spend the money on that setup for just the certain tone and whatever % of performance.
 
Usually 2-1/4" OD, maybe 2-1/8" ID, and your talking 2" OD hrew, I'll be gracious and say 1/8" wall.. you're looking at 1-3/4" ID... That's closer to a motor half the displacement exhaust pipe size... Plus if your skidding the bottom, how's the exhaust going to take a hit if you use exhaust pipe above the skid??? You could always use the flex exhaust pipe and then it'll bend up and out the way when you hit it in something.... Food for thought.


Oh, and Just run the exhaust pipe up in the back and tiger stripe it and you have your tail..
 
marty79 said:
it's not common but there are. I knew someone specifically do a twin turbo STI 572hp to the wheels, ran 2.5" DOM all the way out from turbo back, sounded freaking amazing. I heard a Chevelle with 2" DOM straight duals, X Pipe on 383 stroker again amazing different kind of tone than the regular muscle car sound you get from the same mufflers. The Tone is one of the biggest reasons to do it besides heat since regular exhaust piping cannot produce same frequencies and resonances. THe smooth inner walls throughout the whole system if bent properly is the performance aspect of it (same as mandrel bent stuff). I'm sure however many wouldn't/don't spend the money on that setup for just the certain tone and whatever % of performance.
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2.5" DOM vs 2.5" Exhaust pipe will sound the same. I assume you also mean OD, which means he is making less power actually since at that HP with DOM and how thick the walls are will hurt the flow. The only thing is, the car will be slower since the weight. It is pretty dumb to do.
 
a_kelley said:
Usually 2-1/4" OD, maybe 2-1/8" ID, and your talking 2" OD hrew, I'll be gracious and say 1/8" wall.. you're looking at 1-3/4" ID... That's closer to a motor half the displacement exhaust pipe size... Plus if your skidding the bottom, how's the exhaust going to take a hit if you use exhaust pipe above the skid??? You could always use the flex exhaust pipe and then it'll bend up and out the way when you hit it in something.... Food for thought.


Oh, and Just run the exhaust pipe up in the back and tiger stripe it and you have your tail..
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You beat me to it...I was going to say .120 wall, so 1.75 ID. I built a set of headers for my 402 once upon a time with primary tubes that size.

Good call on the exhaust pipe. Go HMMWV style!

Or....
ricer-mods-6.jpg
 
marty79 said:
it's not common but there are. I knew someone specifically do a twin turbo STI 572hp to the wheels, ran 2.5" DOM all the way out from turbo back, sounded freaking amazing. I heard a Chevelle with 2" DOM straight duals, X Pipe on 383 stroker again amazing different kind of tone than the regular muscle car sound you get from the same mufflers. The Tone is one of the biggest reasons to do it besides heat since regular exhaust piping cannot produce same frequencies and resonances. THe smooth inner walls throughout the whole system if bent properly is the performance aspect of it (same as mandrel bent stuff). I'm sure however many wouldn't/don't spend the money on that setup for just the certain tone and whatever % of performance.
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Ok so in both cases, they ran dual pipes.. 2.5" x 2 is not the same as 2" thick wall.

Same for the 383. Duals with 2". Probably thin wall again.
 
shawn said:
And the restriction of the smaller ID pipe
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This. But all my pleas suggesting that smaller ID will drastically reduce the torque band is apparently falling on deaf ears (eyes?). But what do I know? :D I'll just resume my post in the corner...eating paste. I'm acquiring quite the taste for Elmer's now. :lol:
 
ok ok enough on the "exhaust" debate!! It's on there and that's that lol. It will be just fine, after all took me 30min to change whole setup from 1.75 to 2" so if I don't like it down the road, I'll change it again!! but I'm curious to see the difference, If any!
 
marty79 said:
BTW, somebody happen to have a Tiger Tail from a halloween costume laying around HAHA but seriously I need one to add to this rig. Just kinda goes with the theme!
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Send me an address I'll mail ya a couple...

We have loads of tiger tails from years of tailgating.....
 
I was going to post a pic of a..."ahem"...tiger tail. But then I think this thread would have went NSFW in a hurry, so I'll refrain. :D

I will admit though, John. I do appreciate that we have in common the "work with the things you've got" thing going on. That's how I build my junk. I barter, haggle, dig through scrap, and find old derelict parts that no one wants anymore and repurpose them for myself.
 
You’ve got it backwards about being heavy. With all your weight up high (in the cage) and a more flexible suspension it will most likely have some awesome body roll and on off camber stuff it’s going to want to pull the top over to the bottom side of the hill.


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Loganwayne said:
You’ve got it backwards about being heavy. With all your weight up high (in the cage) and a more flexible suspension it will most likely have some awesome body roll and on off camber stuff it’s going to want to pull the top over to the bottom side of the hill.


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Well good thing I've only got 4" lift and real wide stance.
 
Loganwayne said:
You’ve got it backwards about being heavy. With all your weight up high (in the cage) and a more flexible suspension it will most likely have some awesome body roll and on off camber stuff it’s going to want to pull the top over to the bottom side of the hill.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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marty79 said:
Well good thing I've only got 4" lift and real wide stance.
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I'd say it will be pretty hairy without a rear swaybar.
 
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