Got my Trailer parts..car hauler in the making!!

John Fuller said:
.i will run several passes on them with good cleaning and grinding in between. thanks
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image.jpg
 
Mac5005 said:
There's a bit more to making a competent weld than this. IIRC you are running FCAW not GMAW.

Yes flux penetrates easier than hard wire but still has the tendency to pile up with little fusion on the base of the weld.

You cannot know with certainty that your are making a quality weld without either testing one through destruction, or other test NDT like XRay or Ultra-sound.

I would typically stay away from these "discussions" but the possible liability of a vehicle coming off a trailer and hurting someone other than yourself is too much for me to ignore.

Either test your own welds,
go somewhere and get plate qualified with FCAW/GMAW with your individual machine,

Or better yet,

Pay a professional welder who is Qualified in that position to make those welds.

Peace of mine, and protection of others is paramount to your convenience or personal economy.

Sorry to be the devils advocate on this, and I know I'm going to catch some heat for this post, but it needs to be said.
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very much understood..no problem. it won't be hard to take it to someone who has a 220 gas welder and let them weld on some tow points for such purposes as this. i have welded things of the like and tested them with my own ways but this is probably the sound advise way to go about this. when i go buy the steel for it...i probably will take it with me and have them weld em on real quick while i'm there.
 
krehel24 said:
View attachment 185425

@John Fuller look at this D-ring weld and tell me what you think....
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well if i had to guess it doesn't look too proper but please don't bash me if i'm wrong cause i'm really not able to tell very well from the look of welds. some i guess i can but the realm of welding and pictures of it are far from my knowledge. i do what i can but any serious welding i've always taken to others. i taught myself back 7 years ago with flux and just stuck with it and have learned and gotten better over years but i actually don't know squat about it as far as the math/metalurgy/finesse/or proper ediquette for it. i know what i can weld for sure and holds up but things i don't trust i have others do.
 
John Fuller said:
well if i had to guess it doesn't look too proper but please don't bash me if i'm wrong cause i'm really not able to tell very well from the look of welds. some i guess i can but the realm of welding and pictures of it are far from my knowledge. i do what i can but any serious welding i've always taken to others. i taught myself back 7 years ago with flux and just stuck with it and have learned and gotten better over years but i actually don't know squat about it as far as the math/metalurgy/finesse/or proper ediquette for it. i know what i can weld for sure and holds up but things i don't trust i have others do.
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Fare enough, what would you say is wrong with the weld (there is a problem with it)
 
well to me it looks like the bead that actually seals/seats in the d-link is so small with not much penetration and the second bead they ran is on top of the bead and the D-link but not even touching the piece that it's attached to therefor making the second bead pointless??? am i close. that's what i see anyways.
 
You shouldn't need to grind between passes unless there is a problem (most of the time).

Scott can explain in way more technical terms than I.
 
look at the top weld you will see it is undercut, so the voltage is to high. You want to clean your weld before the next pass but not grind! since the D- rig is what will keep from killing someone, you may want to get some help and maybe a bigger welder.

We will let some other people critique the above weld, this will help you to see what need or does not need to be done. There is alot more to welding then just laying down a bead!!....voltage, wire speed, shielding, tip angle, tip distance. ....ect...
 
krehel24 said:
since the D- rig is what will keep from killing someone, you may want to get some help and maybe a bigger welder.
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yeah i am for those...i will have the steel shop put them on when i go buy the steel. for the rest of this, i'm all open to learn. thanks
 
i never called myself a fabricator and never will. that's not my forte nor my realm nor have i ever been taught anything about it. i have too much ADD to try to be one lol. I "fabricate" what i do for me and my jeep but that's as far as my "fabrication" skills go. i've had some ok stuff turn out but none of my "fabbing" stuff has ever been worth anything and i'm ok with that but it suits my needs.
 
Why don't you attend a couple welding classes at your local community college? You may be surprised at how affordable it is. You don't need a degree, just some basics that could help.
 
its a possibility in the future but up to this point and still for now i am not able to leave home very much due to wifes condition but we'll see how things go this weekend being away all weekend and around lots of social encounters which is really new to her.
 
GotWood said:
Why don't you attend a couple welding classes at your local community college? You may be surprised at how affordable it is. You don't need a degree, just some basics that could help.
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This ^
Caldwell Community college has 6 week classes for $187
 
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yeah i know they do and someday i will when things get to that point. when i do that, i want to get certified in Engine Diagnostics too so i can learn more on engine computer management and diagnose these newer cars better lol
 
I can't believe I read this whole thread.

Useful tip: Kaufman will sell you 3500# braking axles that they put under their own trailers for cheaper than you can get from Northern Tool (or any of the other trailer outfitters/builders).
 
FrontPorchFab said:
Useful tip: Kaufman will sell you 3500# braking axles that they put under their own trailers for cheaper than you can get from Northern Tool (or any of the other trailer outfitters/builders).
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Another source: http://www.trailerparts4u.com/

They are in Greenville SC and will drop ship anything anywhere. They beat any other axle price I got by over $100 last time.
 
well dang...thank u for sharing. i thought 275 was cheap but good to know they are even cheaper. gracias!
 
alright guys need some serious advise here: here's the truck with trailer empty and then loaded and how the jeep sits on trailer. does this look close to what everyone has been saying about all this. trailer tires are at 48psi (max is 50 for 1820lbs each), truck tires are 50psi, and here's where i'm at: thank you very much for your help. i wanna make sure i'm as safe as possible with positioning and tire psi.
truck empty trailer.jpg
truck rear sag 1.jpg
truck rear sag 2.jpg
jeep on trailer.jpg
jeep on trailer 2.jpg
 
that's how far forward the jeep had to sit in order for the truck to sag roughly 3.5" or so...am i close
 
Hard to tell, but I'd probably back the jeep up 6-12". Looks like too much tongue weight for that truck.
 
I'd back the Jeep up about a foot, maybe more.
 
I'd move the jeep back 8.5". I'm not sure about 50 psi either. I'd go 40psi.
 
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