Heim joint steering info

Z-links like you built are very common with the Samurai SPOA crowd. The biggest down side with them is bump steer. Overbuild the heck out of it, check clearance in all situations and roll out.
 
drkelly said:
Z-links like you built are very common with the Samurai SPOA crowd. The biggest down side with them is bump steer. Overbuild the heck out of it, check clearance in all situations and roll out.
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Ok so go with original Z bar I was making!! Good to know others have done it
 
WTH is so hard to understand about just buying a high steer arm and the appropriate knuckle.
That will safely and adequately fix every single issue you speak of.

Edit: You already have a passenger side flat top knuckle. All you need is some easy machine work and a $100 arm with studs.
John, this is a really easy fix.
 
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marty79 said:
So this is what it would have to be if this way can work
View attachment 246793
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So this is what Jody is saying: See that top bar in the picture, with the ground clamp on it? Make that longer, following the same path, and connect it to a high steer arm. Problem solved.

Jody Treadway said:
WTH is so hard to understand about just buying a high steer arm and the appropriate knuckle.
That will safely and adequately fix every single issue you speak of.
Click to expand...
 
Jody Treadway said:
WTH is so hard to understand about just buying a high steer arm and the appropriate knuckle.
That will safely and adequately fix every single issue you speak of.

Edit: You already have a passenger side flat top knuckle. All you need is some easy machine work and a $100 arm with studs.
John, this is a really easy fix.
Click to expand...
I hear ya bud..100 high steer arm plus what...80min to drill this knuckle..and this axle is maybe worth 100-150 so I don't see reasoning personally...
Its ok its done..I did original Z bar as Drkelly said and be done with it..
 
marty79 said:
I hear ya bud..100 high steer arm plus what...80min to drill this knuckle..and this axle is maybe worth 100-150 so I don't see reasoning personally...
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That's the entire reason to do that. The axle was practically free, and going the rest of the way for the best-practice solution costs almost nothing as well. By your math, you'd end up with $200-250 for a complete high steer axle. I can definitely see the reasoning there....
 
Fabrik8 said:
That's the entire reason to do that. The axle was practically free, and going the rest of the way for the best-practice solution costs almost nothing as well. By your math, you'd end up with $200-250 for a complete high steer axle. I can definitely see the reasoning there....
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And sell if for 450

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
marty79 said:
I hear ya bud..100 high steer arm plus what...80min to drill this knuckle..and this axle is maybe worth 100-150 so I don't see reasoning personally...
Its ok its done..I did original Z bar as Drkelly said and be done with it..
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We wanna see the pics of the finished product
 
Fabrik8 said:
As you should, if someone will buy it. :D
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Someone would people look for 44s all the time having high steer would make it more sale able. I considered getting a set of 44s and building them for a rig designed for 37s they would save me a couple inches of ground clearance

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
Jody Treadway said:
We wanna see the pics of the finished product
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Ohh boy had a feeling y'all would want to lol lol...here it is
0507171840.jpg
0507171642.jpg
0507171840a.jpg
 
If u tell me its gonna break...too bad! Lol, I'm running it. That drag link breaks and I will pay someone to make a freaking draglink no matter the stupid cost...argh what a day
 
Fabrik8 said:
That's the entire reason to do that. The axle was practically free, and going the rest of the way for the best-practice solution costs almost nothing as well. By your math, you'd end up with $200-250 for a complete high steer axle. I can definitely see the reasoning there....
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Low pinion d44, pass side, now welded spiders , 3:73 even with high steer nobody wants lol except ....ahh(yes my dumb butt)hehe
 
Why in the fuck is there an adjustment collar welded in the middle of the drag link?

What's it look like at full stuff? I have $50 says the drag link hits the tie rod.
 
marty79 said:
If u tell me its gonna break...too bad! Lol, I'm running it. That drag link breaks and I will pay someone to make a freaking draglink no matter the stupid cost...argh what a day
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If it breaks, you don't need to pay someone to make a better version of a flawed design. You need to move to a proper design like a high steer setup.
 
shawn said:
Why in the fuck is there an adjustment collar welded in the middle of the drag link?

What's it look like at full stuff? I have $50 says the drag link hits the tie rod.
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So I can do alignment...
And so the answer is still "its crap" lol
 
And it all clears for using jacks to cycle suspension
 
marty79 said:
So I can do alignment...
And so the answer is still "its crap" lol
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If "centering the steering wheel" and "alignment" are the same thing...?

Soooo it did not occur to you that threaded rod ends can be used for the same purpose, and is the explicit reason that a male thread is used at one side of a tie rod, and a female threaded rod end at the other? Break the (rod end) jam nuts free, and rotate the tie rod to increase or decrease the center-to-center length. In your case, you'll want to stick to nice 90degree increments for obvious reasons of using square tubing.

I suppose it's too late to say that you want to calculate your link lengths with the rod ends close-ish to the middle of their adjustment range, else you have no adjustment range. And to say that you need to pay attention to where you place the male and female threaded rod ends. With the drag link, you'll have to unbolt the rod end and rotate it to change length, because there's no other way with a Z-shaped link.
 
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Fabrik8 said:
If "centering the steering wheel" and "alignment" are the same thing...?

Soooo it did not occur that threaded rod ends can be used for the same purpose, and is the reason that a male thread is used at one side of a tie rod, and a female threaded rod end at the other? Break the (rod end) jam nuts free, and rotate the tie rod to increase or decrease the center-to-center length. In your case, you'll want to stick to nice 90degree increments for obvious reasons of using square tubing.

I suppose it's too late to say that you want to calculate your link lengths with the rod ends close-ish to the middle of their adjustment range, else you have no adjustment range.
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I don't need lessons on how to ailing a jeep thank u. I left the drag link sleeve for simplicity of centering steering wheel when adjusting lift in future..nothing wrong with that, just my preference
 
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