How to tell a Rubicon from a regular jku?

rockcity said:
But, what are the actual notable differences besides the 4:1, D44s, special wheels and tires, and electric lockers?
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Spring and shocks are different, stickers on the hood, couple extra switches...

I don't think you'd come out cheaper considering you could sell the rubi 44s for a few grand down the road and put that into the one tons...
 
If I were going to get another jk/jku i’d get a rubicon. Because honestly I wouldn’t be taking it anywhere serious off-road maybe the beach and light wheeling. Then WAYYYY down the road upgrade and wheel the piss out of it.
 
You don't get the special stickers or the Rubicon embroidery on the seats.
 
rockcity said:
Ok. So now we know how to tell the difference.


But, what are the actual notable differences besides the 4:1, D44s, special wheels and tires, and electric lockers?


Considering if it's worth just getting a regular jku for cheap and just copying @tw89yj and doing a D60/14b and end up cheaper. Still wouldn't have the transfer case but that's ok. Can always do an Atlas later.
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If I had to do it again, I’d start with the cheapest JKU I could find and do everything I did to my Rubicon without the premium.

CasterTroy said:
@Deplorable can answer that
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LBarr2002 said:
Spring and shocks are different, stickers on the hood, couple extra switches...

I don't think you'd come out cheaper considering you could sell the rubi 44s for a few grand down the road and put that into the one tons...
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There’s a couple ways of looking at it. When I bought mine I did not intend on doing an axle swap. If that’s in the plans, why go Rubicon when you can save about $10k and go with a Sport? I sold my stock axles that were regeared to 4.88 for what I think a very high price but it still didn’t come close to paying for my new axles. So my vote is start with a base and make it better than a stock Rubicon.
 
jyaks said:
If I were going to get another jk/jku i’d get a rubicon. Because honestly I wouldn’t be taking it anywhere serious off-road maybe the beach and light wheeling. Then WAYYYY down the road upgrade and wheel the piss out of it.
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That’s what I thought too. But within 8 months I had 60s...
 
Where’s the best place to buy one? I’m going to Sanford this weekend to look at a jkur and a yota.
 
anvilrubi said:
Where’s the best place to buy one? I’m going to Sanford this weekend to look at a jkur and a yota.
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I knew exactly what I (thought I) wanted and emailed different dealerships until they sold it for the price I wanted to pay. Ended up flying 750 miles to drive it back. Oh, and the dealer paid for my airfare...
 
I bought mine new 11 years ago. I’ve debated a HEMI swap even though I’ve only got 80k on the minivan motor.

FWIW - MOPAR now has direct bolt in D60s (front and rear) geared to 5:38s. The factory Rubicon locker electronics even connect.
 
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rockcity said:
I can't imagine how much $$$ Mopar would charge for direct bolt in D60s. I could likely get better for less $ from ECGS.
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Dana Ultimate 60s.
An alright option, but for the $12+k they are charging, there are a lot of MUCH better options available.
 
rockcity said:
But, what are the actual notable differences besides the 4:1, D44s, special wheels and tires, and electric lockers?
.
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You forgot stickers.

My thoughts are if you are going to wheel it stock for a few years or more, then I would buy the Rubicon. If you are going to throw some tons under fairly soon, then buy a regular JKU and don't pay the status surcharge.
 
Hmm.

Off the shelf bolt in D60s front and rear with ARBs are $13500 +/-. $1600 less if using the factory e locker. I'm sure I could DIY the axles for a little cheaper.


Rubicon stock axles can be sold for $3500 or so.


$12k - $3500, so $8500 in costs for a pair of bolt in D60s on a Rubicon, less if I find some junk yard axles and DIY them a little.


Or, $12k cost for a non Rubicon jku in addition to the vehicle and no 4:1.


Seems like the Rubicon premium price would be worth it where some minor upgrades on the D44 axles would work for the short term until D60s are built.
 
drkelly said:
You forgot stickers.

My thoughts are if you are going to wheel it stock for a few years or more, then I would buy the Rubicon. If you are going to throw some tons under fairly soon, then buy a regular JKU and don't pay the status surcharge.
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That was my initial thought but I'd have to manage with a standard transfer case in lieu of the 4:1. May not be a huge issue but it's definetly a thought to consider
 
rockcity said:
That sounds like something that is more of a gimmick than anything?


Or does it actually work that well?
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Gimmick. Disconnects upset the front/rear balance of the rig.
 
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