I need a tool that I can't find

I feel like I made the winning post, but it was missed
:cryingrivers:
I don't think anyone makes a 13mm pedal wrench, They're all pretty much 15 or 17mm... Now a Cone wrench, maybe....

 
Does it even need to be a handle style tool?
I'm of the opinion that a socket style tool that is a cylinder with a slot cut out of the bottom and 3/8" square head for a ratchet would be way mo betta.
A 13mm socket w/ the sides ground down via dremmel would work too.

He specifically said he would do that for his home, but that this is for his workplace. His first condition was that it needs to be an off-shelf tool ready to work as is.

But i agree, his second condition of wanting it to be pricey..... He could easily drop the part off at a machine shop and have several wrenches made with very tight tolerances. Then they would have the marketability of "custom tools" for their "in house servicing" that they offer - making the service fees even easier to swallow HOWEVER, maybe part of their marketing is "quality german parts" and "long life" and "ease of serviceability" but they offer a "well priced service option" that saves people TIME

idk.
 
Just waterjet a new tool with all of the specs you need out of high strength steel. Or grind down the 13mm wrench to be skinny and then put a rubberized coating on it to fill in the small gaps you are having problems with. Surely you can come up with a mastermind solution for this job! haha Also you might be able to use the aluminum anodized open end wrenches that are used for AN fittings and just grind them down if their profile is too fat.

or maybe these?
The wrench doesn't need to be skinny. There's all the space in the world behind it. The problem is the load is only spread over 2.4mm. Rubberized coating will not hold up. Aluminum will not hold up.

This sounds exactly like a pedal wrench

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The closed end of that pedal wrench is exactly what I need, just 13mm (or ideally 12.9mm) flat to flat. Open end wrenches deflect too much for the torque.
how much force are you applying? or What reason would steel not hold up?
Not quanitified, but I'll say a lot. First problem is a lot of loctite, and second problem is a bunch of heat cycles. Even once it's broken loose, it take dozens of foot-pounds to twist it out.
Basic thin wrench not good ?

No, thickness is not an issue as there is plenty of space, so a larger wrench would be fine for greater stiffness.
I'm sure you've tried it already, but that looks like a 1/2" wrench would work better... If 1/2" is too small, get a Harbor Freight Pittsburg wrench so it spreads a bit...
Unfortunately a 1/2" wrench is about 5 thou too small.
Those genius Germans didn’t provide you with the tools you need to service the tools you sell? Throw this back over the wall into their (Patrick’s) lap and let them figure it out. “Sorry, we can’t do anymore repairs because we don’t have appropriate tooling and we’re damaging the customers’ products and there’s no off-the-shelf solution commercially available.” “And the customers are angry” - gotta throw that in there. Nothing you come up with will be as good as a German could do it. :lol:
You know too much of the situation. Hush. :flipoff2:
Get ready for my insanely accurate blue print design.
I assume you need an actual socket, not a shop made one?
Typical shallow, chrome socket, appropriate diameter. Cut down throug the big end opening correct width, + 1/8" on each side, weld 1/8" flat stock across both sides of the opening, done.
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The 1/8" stock would be too soft in the long run, however, this does give me an idea. Just take a socket and turn it down and mill a 12.9mm flat in the body where it's broached for the drive. I don't know how hard that would be, but its at least got a shot.
Same idea as the Knipex Pliers Wrench mentioned earlier in this thread. Basically what we're doing now, but not really the right tool for the job in the long run.
I feel like in the time this thread has run, a tool could have been made.
#facts
Does it even need to be a handle style tool?
I'm of the opinion that a socket style tool that is a cylinder with a slot cut out of the bottom and 3/8" square head for a ratchet would be way mo betta.
A 13mm socket w/ the sides ground down via dremmel would work too.
Yes and no, but a handle style tool will work much better. The handle style tool keeps all torque flat and inline with the head of the bolt. Adding a sock or any extension inevitably translates into a compound load that will cause the tool to slip because the head is too damn short.
I don't think anyone makes a 13mm pedal wrench, They're all pretty much 15 or 17mm... Now a Cone wrench, maybe....

Wrench thickness is not an issue, so the cone wrench would just be less strong than standard wrench. But this is the kind of oddball stuff I was hoping would come from this thread. Somewhere out there is probably the thing I need, but its for some other weird application.

The core problem is the head of this bolt is too shallow, and only a 2point fastener instead of a simple damn hex head.
 
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Your Germans suck. At least when my Germans finagle some dumb proprietary fitting onto a machine they are courteous enough to send a custom tool to operate it. They even sent a German laptop with all the needed software to remote in. Weird as hell to type in though
 
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This piece is installed in the end of a shaft, so the only thing sticking out is the 2.35mm of head

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And here's the problem with a typical open end wrench.
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You end up loading significantly on 2 points because it's 12.9mm instead of 12.99mm. That wears out the wrench rather quickly, and then you lose the nice square edge and it slips off.
It is a fucking shoulder screw
change the part and EDM a hex into it, make sure it is a 8.5mm hex so you can make the hex keys and be THE ONLY ones to service it.
Don't look at only solving the problem but a way to make additional profit.
Weld a nut onto it that is what anyone on NC4X$ would do at home.
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And here's the problem with a typical open end wrench.
View attachment 435211

You end up loading significantly on 2 points because it's 12.9mm instead of 12.99mm. That wears out the wrench rather quickly, and then you lose the nice square edge and it slips off.
Then does a 1/2" wrench fit? That is 12.7mm, but usually has a 0.1-0.2mm slop for fit.
 
Then does a 1/2" wrench fit? That is 12.7mm, but usually has a 0.1-0.2mm slop for fit.
Haven't tried, but even if it does, its not gonna last long term. An adjustable wrench is better because it spreads the load over the entire 16mm width, whereas an open end wrench only goes about 12-13mm. That's why I want a boxed end wrench with the exact profile I need (Yes, I know I'm being picky ;))
 
Could you use the folks below to have a small run made? We use them at work for small runs of tooling. You can get about any material or hardness/temper you prefer.

 
would a wera vde spanner be any better?
Just saw this, sorry. Wera VDE looks like a pull direction optimized version of the pliers wrench. Should work, just similar issues to adjustable wrench or pliers wrench.

Could this be the one application in the world where that cheesy socket gimmick with 50 needle bearings inside could work?
I want to say no, but I haven't tried it! :laughing:

I imagine those pins are not hardened and would last about 2 tries, but I have one at home so maybe I'll bring it in tomrorow and give it a shot. It would still have the tendency to twist off like any other socket though because the surface is so short.
 
Could you use the folks below to have a small run made? We use them at work for small runs of tooling. You can get about any material or hardness/temper you prefer.

But then I'd have to actually draw something up, and thats much more work than just talking about it on the internet. :(
 
How many of said tool do you need?

This is a classic case of small batch manufacturing that a water jet CNC is perfect for. This tool could be CADed in about 30 mins max and have anywhere from a dozen to a hundred in your hand in a day or so.
 
But then I'd have to actually draw something up, and thats much more work than just talking about it on the internet. :(
Pretty sure I could have designed this in the time it took to get through this thread - minus the time figuring out wtf you were talking about.
 
How many of said tool do you need?

This is a classic case of small batch manufacturing that a water jet CNC is perfect for. This tool could be CADed in about 30 mins max and have anywhere from a dozen to a hundred in your hand in a day or so.
1. Until it wears out, and then 1 more.
 
1. Until it wears out, and then 1 more.
Then it sounds to me like Matt Industries needs to make 3 and sell them to the company for $500.
 
Pretty sure I could have designed this in the time it took to get through this thread - minus the time figuring out wtf you were talking about.
I could have went and milled something out pretty quickly too, but I can surf NC4x4 and get my 3-pages-in-less-than-24-hours-thread commission while also goofing off and getting other work done and looking busy on my computer. 👍
 
How many of said tool do you need?

This is a classic case of small batch manufacturing that a water jet CNC is perfect for. This tool could be CADed in about 30 mins max and have anywhere from a dozen to a hundred in your hand in a day or so.
Can you just 3D print me one?
 
How is this cone wrench any different than a regular ole open end wrench for this application?

Maybe if you bought two, cut one and welded it tot he first to create a “box end”. But at that point, just have something made anyway.

I’m guessing the desire for a box end is the mouth opening and wearing out?

I haven’t seen them in sometime now, but there was a 6 point box end wrench that instead of flats it had bumps, or maybe another way to describe was a wave pattern. It proclaimed to put pressure on the flat surface of the nut instead of the points of the nut. Made sense to me. But I don’t think you’d fit it on this with the curved ends. But you might could modify it to work.
 
Another vote for making a "tool" out of some plate steel or scrap from the shop. Then replacing said bolt with a normal hex head shoulder bolt.

Then you don't need a $$$ tool to fix it the next time.
 
Curses! Why did you have to lead me down this rabbit hole?

Would something like this work or would it have to be fully closed? You could mill out the flats on the handle end to fit (or clear) the radius of the head? I guess that still violates the off-the-shelf rule, but we’re getting desperate here. 😂

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