JK and K5 build threads Bc you can never have too many toys

iwaxmyjimmy

College Web Wheeler
Joined
Mar 10, 2007
Location
Greenville NC
Well I'm moving back to NC so I figured if get y'all acquainted with my JK so y'all can show me around the trails early next year.

In 2012, I bought my 2010 JK 6 speed Rubicon in Cary at a stealer ship.

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I bought it with the bumpers and winch already on it and only 46k on the clock. Those guys were idiots and let me walk out door with it for $23k with it jeep certified 100k warranty and it's got a Warn 9500Ti winch.

So I drove it back to fort Irwin California were I am stationed as of right now. Bought some coil spacers, some 4 door hard top springs, 12" travel pro comp cheap ass shocks and some wheel spacers and it ended up like this

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Was good but I wanted better and totally screwed myself going with a RK 2.5 stock mod lift. Springs are short as hell and honestly I wish it was taller to get the belly height up. But I had to run 3" bump stops with those shocks, so I cut out the upper mounts and built some crappy ones out of 1/8" plate to raise them up 3" and used that same piece of plate to make some tail light panels since I started to rip my license plate and tail light off on a canyon walk

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I could now stuff the tires and keep the front springs from unseating 4" when I was flexing.

Started dating a chick so jeep fun took a side step and then things with her started going south. So I bought a welder instead if an engagement ring and built my skid plate for the engine and trans, and also some lower control arm skids for the rear.


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Gained about 2 1/2" of clearance under the rear control arm bracket. Still need some longer springs to get full droop.


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Well July 4th I had nothing going on so I cranked up the cut off wheel and flipped on the welder and swapped a TJ gas tank in the back to get that belly height up more


Here is how much clearance is gained
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Now it does take a huge hole to be cut, the coil crossmember notched and the body mounts relocated

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Fuel tank skid gangs down only 2 3/4" from the frame rails and that's less than the factory muffler

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I had to raise the floor 3" to give me some room to plumb everything and pull the pump out if need be. But the back seat still is full functional in it and it's not a big deal to me

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I've added some Solid Industries diff covers. I'm going to be starting getting my trans cross member even with the frame and also redoing my y-pipe to go behind the tcase tomorrow. I've came up with a way to do high steer that will be 2" higher than Reid knuckles for about $100 cheaper than just A set of Reid Knuckles, but including a beefy tie rod and drag link if you can weld and stuff.

Disclaimer I'm not a pro, I've taught myself to weld and I'm still learning fab. But screw buying parts I can build my damn self.

Here is how it sits now I ripped a fender off so I painted the lips and enjoy the added visibility of the tires

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Post up pics... I'm curious. BTW, looks good!
 
I'm going to be starting getting my trans cross member even with the frame and also redoing my y-pipe to go behind the tcase tomorrow. I've came up with a way to do high steer that will be 2" higher than Reid knuckles for about $100 cheaper than just A set of Reid Knuckles, but including a beefy tie rod and drag link if you can weld and stuff.

Sorry, the Y-pipe relocation and the high steer setup.
 
Sorry, the Y-pipe relocation and the high steer setup.


Ahh yeah y pipe should be fairly soon and it might be a month of 3 for the high steer. I'm in the Army and dont make big $$ lol
 
Cross member is in but I want to gusset the actual trans mount, I need to do the y-pipe, and I need to clean up the frame rails where the factory trans crossmember was

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And here are some more pics of then I painted floor in the back

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Made a little more progress, I have to pick up some more exhaust tubing in order to do that, I gusseted the trans mount, picked up some DOM for the rear upper control arms to get that pinion angle in check, also picked up some 2x2 for the cross member that'll help reenforce the belly pan and Notched the crossmember above the rear output yoke for more clearance. Still a good amount of work to do.

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And for shits and giggles I put a heim and bung in some DOM to see how high the steering will be,



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Needless to say I'm pretty stoked about it. Should have that done by the end of September so I'll be ready for the Hammers wheeling season.
 
Thanks, when you're not stuck inside the box of bolt ons, crazy shit can happen
 
Well i finished the tie rod but still have to clearance the frame, redo my track bar and mount, gusset the draglink mount

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Outboarded my rear shocks, did inner c gussets, ball joints, finished the steering and track bar, also remade my transmission crossmember out of 2x2 .250 wall. Picked up materials to do my engine/trans skid. I'll tie it into that cross member. Ive got a pretty nifty idea for the belly pan but cant get started on it till this weekend.


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It handles really good now, I don't run sway bars, but might look into a light rate anti rock front and rear after i finalize my wheelbase. I feel like the out boarded rear shocks made a huge difference on how solid and planted the rear feels. I do believe raising the roll center 5" up front helped a lot too, a friend here on post thinks it easily out handles his 2 door JK with anti rocks.
 
Finished the cutting out the belly pan, but I added a extra crossmember out back that I'll need to drill the holes for still. Out in the field for 3 wks and hoping I can get it somewhat done and catch the KOH race.

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Also built a new frameside track bar mount for more steering clearance.

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Took it out for a shake down run and decided to add in that rear crossmember and made a little more exhaust clearance

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Right now I need to drill some holes, weld some nuts to the crossmember, cut the steel for my corners, and mount those up. Hopefully running sledgehammer on the 15th.
 
Nice man!
 
Right now I'm saving up for new tires, gears, and shafts. Sometime this year I would like to build a 231/300 doubler, switch to 1350 CV driveshafts and maybe stretch/3 link the front end a few inches. Out back is going to be a while because I want to redo the rear frame narrow it some and 4 link it and stretch it a few inches also.
 
Very good home fab work. Jealous of your location for scenery and off road opportunities.
 
Very good home fab work. Jealous of your location for scenery and off road opportunities.

Thanks, but I'll be back in NC pretty soon.
 
Well since I'm moving back east i ditched the heim steering and went to tie rods


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Added some swampers to the mix. MTR with kevlar aren't worth a damn in my opinion
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Finally made the oil pan portion of my belly pan

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And wednsday morning I'll start headed back east.
 
like the work you've been doing on it! safe trip back to the east.
 
like the work you've been doing on it! safe trip back to the east.

Thanks, need to regear, hydro assist, build some drive lines, get some chromo axles and should be ready for some east coast rocks with out any worries of using the skinny pedal if needed.
 
with out any worries of using the skinny pedal if needed.
LOL, this is my number one worry right now with my new xj...good thing i crawl and go easy otherwise these tires would for sure put a "twist" on my stock setup.. Hydro assist is my next mod as well...turning with front and rear welded does not feel very well.
 

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LOL, this is my number one worry right now with my new xj...good thing i crawl and go easy otherwise these tires would for sure put a "twist" on my stock setup.. Hydro assist is my next mod as well...turning with front and rear welded does not feel very well.

Im very light on the throttle after wheeling out here in cali the past few years. Only been on 37s for a few trail runs and i like added insurance.
 
LOL thornbirds are now my new favorite super swamper...at least the modified version. I call em "SSBreaker" lol at least for xj
 
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