Koh 2010 52x buggy rebuild

Go with a 14 bolt with a detroit.
 
Sell the conversion kit and run 8 lug stuff......put an ARB in the rear (you're going to want it for turning brakes). I'd rather have a full spool than a detroit (they break too)
Just build it right the first time and trust me, you'll save lots of $$$$$ and heartache down the road. I ended up with close to 5 grand in a true hi9(center section) after multiple rebuilds and sold it broken for $1000 iirc. I'd still run a 14bolt over a lp9"...I blew up a couple of those too, but they did last about 5 times longer than the HP9. My current buggy sports a 14bolt and other than a D70u...there's not much else I'd trust to take the abuse of a high HP motor and lots of throttle.
I'm no guru, but I've wheeled with lots of badass buggys/trucks/jeeps etc... and I'm telling you what I've witnessed break and what seems to hold up.
 
i have way too much money tied up in wheels to change to 8 lug.....i might be getting jrkellys 14 bolt housing for 50 bucks. lol


The only reason i would consider lp9 ruffstuff housing is for some kind of weight savings....
 
you are trying to build a competitive KOH racer and you are worried about money? haha :flipoff2:

sell what you have, and buy the right stuff. If you are building a crawler, use your HP stuff and be done. If you are REALLY going to try and compete and beat the shit out of it, you need to spend the coin and get the right stuff.

Just my .02
 
slravene said:
you are trying to build a competitive KOH racer and you are worried about money? haha :flipoff2:
sell what you have, and buy the right stuff. If you are building a crawler, use your HP stuff and be done. If you are REALLY going to try and compete and beat the shit out of it, you need to spend the coin and get the right stuff.
Just my .02
Click to expand...
yup...and if you're hell bent on running that 5 lug crap...carry plenty of spare wheel studs...ask me how I know..:rolleyes:
 
BIGWOODY said:
yup...and if you're hell bent on running that 5 lug crap...carry plenty of spare lugs...ask me how I know..:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

HEY!!! mine is 5 lug too! :flipoff2:

HP solid mfg 60s front and rear, 5 lug. I dont break shit! Then again...my chevy 4.3 cant get out of its own way and I dont weigh but 3500lbs or so, and im not going racing (yet...haha :lol:)
 
slravene said:
HEY!!! mine is 5 lug too! :flipoff2:
HP solid mfg 60s front and rear, 5 lug. I dont break shit! Then again...my chevy 4.3 cant get out of its own way and I dont weigh but 3500lbs or so, and im not going racing (yet...haha :lol:)
Click to expand...
400hp and stickys will shear them off clean in a high traction spot. Your buggy is set up great for what it was built to do. Building a KOH type rig is a whole different animal...but I know you know that.
 
150 hp and 40" stickys makes for some "interesting" choices sometimes on the trails haha

I am alot harder on it than I should be, knowing full well that i just dont have the power to really tear anything up THAT bad :lol: ....probably a good thing too.
 
so bigwoody.....what do you think about a lp9" strange case, 5.38's and a arb? How much stronger is that then what i already have?
 
sell the conversion kit for the front, and sell the wheels. Make it a package with the rear axle you have for sale already.

Then get 8 lug beadlocks, and build a 14 bolt like you want it, and run the possibility of having some money left over for......i dont know.....maybe a Halon fire supression system?


Just my .02
 
i would skip the supression and just go with the proper extinguishers in copious amounts.

Supression systems are NOT designed to save these vehicles. There just isnt enough chemical in the bottles to put out a fire that we would have (even worse is the fact that these rigs are open and most of the chemical is just lost into the atmosphere). These systems are there to give the driver a few extra seconds to get out. Get multiple extinguishers and get the RIGHT ones for the RIGHT fires. There are different chemicals for fuel fires than fabric fires. Get enough of them, make them accesible, and get QUALITY units. If you want supression...do what they are designed to do and point them all at the interior and right at yourself and the co-dog seat. That way when shit hits the fan, you and your co-driver can get out and not be hurt. Fight the fire AT THE SOURCE and not just haphazardly shooting chemicals at it from a static location.

Preventing the fire is the best way. Build it with fire prevention in mind and you will be OK. Use fire-looms, protect everything, make the sources of fire accesible so that IF you have an issue, you can adress it easily.
 
slravene said:
i would skip the supression and just go with the proper extinguishers in copious amounts.
Supression systems are NOT designed to save these vehicles. There just isnt enough chemical in the bottles to put out a fire that we would have (even worse is the fact that these rigs are open and most of the chemical is just lost into the atmosphere). These systems are there to give the driver a few extra seconds to get out. Get multiple extinguishers and get the RIGHT ones for the RIGHT fires. There are different chemicals for fuel fires than fabric fires. Get enough of them, make them accesible, and get QUALITY units. If you want supression...do what they are designed to do and point them all at the interior and right at yourself and the co-dog seat. That way when shit hits the fan, you and your co-driver can get out and not be hurt. Fight the fire AT THE SOURCE and not just haphazardly shooting chemicals at it from a static location.
Preventing the fire is the best way. Build it with fire prevention in mind and you will be OK. Use fire-looms, protect everything, make the sources of fire accesible so that IF you have an issue, you can adress it easily.
Click to expand...

And make damn sure you can kill the main power supply no matter what. Main electrical disconnect needs to be all metal and a second remote kill....I am still sick from looking at West's rig and not sure Ill ever get the smell out of my head....
 
Well the news is i am probably gonna run my free HP60 rear for now. Alex at Carolina truggies might have a lead on a local builder of a drop in super 14 bolt:flipoff2:...rather wait.
Back to the shop.....
 
SkyHiK5 said:
And make damn sure you can kill the main power supply no matter what. Main electrical disconnect needs to be all metal and a second remote kill....I am still sick from looking at West's rig and not sure Ill ever get the smell out of my head....
Click to expand...

We talked about that in the dairy hut on sunday... (i was the one sitting furthest away from yall against the wall)

Sad that happened...the metal disconnect is SUPER important in my opinion.
 
slravene said:
We talked about that in the dairy hut on sunday... (i was the one sitting furthest away from yall against the wall)
Sad that happened...the metal disconnect is SUPER important in my opinion.
Click to expand...

Ahhhh....you know after yall left i asked Rob...who were they? I never asked names but saw them all weekend...my mind was in shut down mode at that point!!!
 
alittle more progress

ai628.photobucket.com_albums_uu3_greenjeepin_buggy006_1.jpg

ai628.photobucket.com_albums_uu3_greenjeepin_buggy005_1.jpg

ai628.photobucket.com_albums_uu3_greenjeepin_buggy004_1.jpg

ai628.photobucket.com_albums_uu3_greenjeepin_buggy003_1.jpg

ai628.photobucket.com_albums_uu3_greenjeepin_buggy002_1.jpg

ai628.photobucket.com_albums_uu3_greenjeepin_buggy001_1.jpg


made tranny mount today...got bolts=8 hours :lol:

anyone that wants to help feel free to come over. lol
 
I do not know if i should go full reverse manual valvebody in my 700r4 or go with a tv cable setup? any input would be awesome....
 
greenjeepin said:
I do not know if i should go full reverse manual valvebody in my 700r4 or go with a tv cable setup? any input would be awesome....
Click to expand...

You don't have to go FMVB to get rid of the TV cable anymore. I wanna say it's TCI that has a kit to do away with the TV cable, but it offers mnaual or automatic shifting.. If it was out when i did my 700R, it's the kit I'd go with for sure.

The downshifts with my FMVB are brutal if you're not on the gas.
 
So if i do away with the tv cable and have constant 200psi of tranny pressure how will it drive? My tranny is supposed to be a stage 3 tranny with upgraded sprag, clutches, etc. so maybe i should hook up tv cable and see how it drives? anyone running a tv cable on there buggy?
 
TCI has a new constant pressure VB maintains a set min. pressure so you don't risk burning things up (regardless of the TV cable) . Has normal mode and manual mode similar to HD shift kit. BigJuggy had it installed in his/my old jeep when he had the trans updated. I drove it, drove the same as it did before just with little firmer shifts. I think the TV cable more/less becomes the detent/kick down cable. Juggy might speak on how its been adjusted since.

I know your into the 700r4 already but I think for extreme use the 4 bolt flange on the back of the 700r4 is a weak spot. If your going full Manual VB I'd find a 4l60e and use that. It has the larger 6 bolt t-case flange and is stronger. IMHO. my .02
 
Back
Top