Lawn and Landscape

An aerator pushes holes into the ground, further compacting the dirt. A plugger actually pulls dirt out and places loose dirt on the top layer.
 
I guess I am using the wrong word then. Mine leaves the little turds laying everywhere.
 
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Here goes nothin'...
 
drkelly said:
I guess I am using the wrong word then. Mine leaves the little turds laying everywhere.
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I think what you (and I ) have is commonly referred to as a pull-behind plug aerator or core areator. A spike aerator on the other hand doesn't pull any dirt, just jams a something into the soil via rotating sheet metal ninja stars or larger scale circular spikes welded to a drum, or even those goofy strap-on spike aerator shoes.
 
drkelly said:
I guess I am using the wrong word then. Mine leaves the little turds laying everywhere.
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Sounds more like a plugger. If the ends are round and annular (hollow) and it has a place further up for them to fall out as they are pushed in, then its a plugger. The motorized ones that look like a fat pushmower are hardcore and would probably plug through a decking board if the angle is right :D
 
Even the best plugger or aerator can't penetrate the hardest soil. Can you wet it to soften it up? A walk behind core plugger that's not worn out usually does a good job. The aerovater does great on hard packed soil. Those things are crazy expensive though. Even try one pass with a plugger, water it some and make another pass. Once you penetrate the soil, then add moisture, it loosens up quick.
 
Walk behind ain't an option...loosening up 3.5 acres...
 
Ron said:
Walk behind ain't an option...loosening up 3.5 acres...
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I have a 5ft tiller that goes behind the tractor for stuff like that ;)
 
Well so much for all the work on my front yard! Have to run a new main water line due to multiple leaks! Kinda throws a wrench in my plans but at least it's only a small area but still pisses me off!
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Still going to treat the yard but has anyone needed to do this? What's the best method to make sure the top layer remains healthy and won't die off? I'll be renting a ditch witch so my plan was to shovel a top layer off and move to the side. Thoughts?
 
I'm sure this has been mentioned somewhere in this thread, but is there any grass that will grow in a heavily shaded area? In the summer there is a tiny bit of sun that pokes through, but not much. Well, my ground sucks too, it's hard and rocky.
 
Despite @shawn hatred for Bermuda,

I want to overseed my front and back yard with it.

My front is currently centipede, by my neighbor has Bermuda, that is creeping up to the driveway. I'd like to over seed this, starting this spring/summer.


My back yard is a mix of weeds, tall fescue, ryegrass, and dog poo. Also thinking about overseeding this with Bermuda.

As it's the dogs full time play area, I'm comfortable with continued overseeding of fescue in the fall and Bermuda in the spring.

Both are easier than washing all the mud from dogs every rain from the lack of any grass.

Any tips? I plan to rent/use a plug areator on both.

I also have a spike aerator that I can use anytime.
 
99JeepXJ said:
Well so much for all the work on my front yard! Have to run a new main water line due to multiple leaks! Kinda throws a wrench in my plans but at least it's only a small area but still pisses me off!
af3013c4ad68c000dac687584135b956.jpg


Still going to treat the yard but has anyone needed to do this? What's the best method to make sure the top layer remains healthy and won't die off? I'll be renting a ditch witch so my plan was to shovel a top layer off and move to the side. Thoughts?
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If you are seriously going to dig up the sod and save it before trenching, it does work. Mow it a little low first then dig up and lay it upright so the grass blades see sun. Don't let them dry out and die. Trench the line in, cover and tamp and then reinstall sod. MUCH easier said then done but it can be done. This only looks to be maybe 60-70'? You can also buy a few rolls of fescue sod at Supersod to install after you're done. You'll have to cut it to fit but that's an option too. Treat your yard just like you had planned and deal with the trench when you're done. Don't leave dirt laying on your grass for more than two days max or it'll kill it. Once you have dug your trench, don't step all over the freshly dug dirt and compact it down. It makes it much easier to rake in loose soil rather than shoveling and scraping up compacted soil.
 
justjeepin86 said:
I'm sure this has been mentioned somewhere in this thread, but is there any grass that will grow in a heavily shaded area? In the summer there is a tiny bit of sun that pokes through, but not much. Well, my ground sucks too, it's hard and rocky.
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There is many that say they will grow in shade but no, none really will
 
Mac5005 said:
Despite @shawn hatred for Bermuda,

I want to overseed my front and back yard with it.

My front is currently centipede, by my neighbor has Bermuda, that is creeping up to the driveway. I'd like to over seed this, starting this spring/summer.


My back yard is a mix of weeds, tall fescue, ryegrass, and dog poo. Also thinking about overseeding this with Bermuda.

As it's the dogs full time play area, I'm comfortable with continued overseeding of fescue in the fall and Bermuda in the spring.

Both are easier than washing all the mud from dogs every rain from the lack of any grass.

Any tips? I plan to rent/use a plug areator on both.

I also have a spike aerator that I can use anytime.
Click to expand...
Since you are in Rocky Mount I would use rye in the rear in the fall/winter. April/May is the time to seed bermuda. You'll want hulled bermuda seed and read up on spreading it because it's tiny and you can screw up and waste $100 worth of seed in moments. Consider plugging in some bermuda also, Just buy some plugs or scraps of sod and dig little holes and mash it in. You can top dress it with sand or loose soil. You should have a Supersod up there too. Be sure to water your seeding or plugging job in very well. Also don't put out pre emergent now or anytime before you seed. You can fertilize now but just use straight fert.
 
R Q said:
If you are seriously going to dig up the sod and save it before trenching, it does work. Mow it a little low first then dig up and lay it upright so the grass blades see sun. Don't let them dry out and die. Trench the line in, cover and tamp and then reinstall sod. MUCH easier said then done but it can be done. This only looks to be maybe 60-70'? You can also buy a few rolls of fescue sod at Supersod to install after you're done. You'll have to cut it to fit but that's an option too. Treat your yard just like you had planned and deal with the trench when you're done. Don't leave dirt laying on your grass for more than two days max or it'll kill it. Once you have dug your trench, don't step all over the freshly dug dirt and compact it down. It makes it much easier to rake in loose soil rather than shoveling and scraping up compacted soil.
Click to expand...

I'll be digging the trench one day then laying the new water line the next so the soil won't be sitting there for long. I guess I don't need to save the top layer but I've busted my ass to get it where it is and it's still not close to great, just would hate to throw that away. However the line isn't going to be very wide just enough to install water line so maybe I could just throw seed down and hope it grows. Thanks for your help.
 
When applying broadleaf weed killer, how soon can you had fertilizer? I applied it Sunday? Not sure if it's going to need another round.

To late to apply lime? Lawn is general good shape. Stupid chickweed shows up every year but I can get rid of it. Usually get pissed and pull it by hand, including the roots.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
Green Machine said:
When applying broadleaf weed killer, how soon can you had fertilizer? I applied it Sunday? Not sure if it's going to need another round.

To late to apply lime? Lawn is general good shape. Stupid chickweed shows up every year but I can get rid of it. Usually get pissed and pull it by hand, including the roots.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
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A couple of days so you're good on the broadleaf. Lime is fine just not at same time as fert or another application.
 
What's a good way to get rid of grub worms?
 
This came up along my driveway in this spot last year. Bermuda grass? If so, is the only way to get rid of it to spray it with round up?

IMG_20170226_165428940.jpg
 
drkelly said:
This came up along my driveway in this spot last year. Bermuda grass? If so, is the only way to get rid of it to spray it with round up?

View attachment 242873
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Yep that's Bermuda. The only thing to do about it now would be to dig it up, and remove all underground roots. It looks like this is a hard spot for anything to live. If you want fescue you're gonna have to till, add some compost and keep it watered all summer. Round up will do nothing now because its not green and growing. Late in the summer you can spray it a few times but even at that you still have to dig up the roots and replant.
 
YotaOnRocks said:
What's a good way to get rid of grub worms?
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Several products can be applied in May-June for control of grubs. Merit, Mach 5,...sorry names are escaping me now but you have to do it when they are emerging or just starting to borough down into soil. When product names come to me I'll post back. Again, SiteOne is your friend when you need AG supplies.
 
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