Long arms four link to be exact

Keith1138

Keith1138

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2015
Location
Harrisburg NC
I'm still new to all of this I'm trying to figure out what style of long arms I want to get I know some combine the uppers and lowers some have heim joints and others have bushings. I'm wondering what is the pros and cons of each style. I just don't know how I feel about only having two actual arms coming from my vehicle to my axel. Like the set up pictured.
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I'm not a fan of radius arm style long arms, 3 link would be my choice. However I will have a Rusty's Long Arm for sale here shortly for cheap.
 
You could buy the Clayton long arm 3 link crossmember and arms. I think iron rock off-road will sell the crossmember and arms as well. I think cav-fab also sells a similar “package”

Plenty of choices.


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radius arms work just fine.
 
junkxj said:
Just wondering if you are planning on taller springs in addition to the long arms?
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Yeah 5.5s to clear 35s

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The more research I did, the harder my decision was. I just had some radius arms made and will run that to see how I like it. I have no experience with any other set ups, so if it works for me, my wallet and I will be happy as a clam.

If you’re able, I’m heading to Uwharrie Saturday if you want to check it out. Radius arms, 5.5” of lift, just 33s instead of 35.
 
I'll shed a little light on the subject of long arms for the OP. The reason long arms only come in few options (radius arms, 3 link, or true 4 link) is because of space limitations being major factor and mostly to have true long arm lift, you can't use factory upper mounts for "long arms" they would be short lol. So it leaves only few options as mentioned...either Y link like Iron Rock Off road, radius arms or 3 link which gives you a "long" upper arm way back at the crossmember (which is the best performing and flexing option. Running dual upper long links back to cross member isn't feasible for space so hence the 3 link is the most common and popular. Radius arms work very well and so does the Y link (Iron Rock Off Road style) especially if the one upper bushing on the pumpkin is a johnny joint style rather than bushing. Bushings will ride smoother on street but don't give/flex as much. Heim joints and johnny joint will give full articulation of your suspension at all angles and will last quite a while, especially on a street rig but you pay a lot more for those type of links or link setup.
I've personally have had short arm lifts, 8" Iron rock lift, radius arms, 3 links and now triangulated 4 links. I love the 4 link! On street rig though and for cost friendly, either of the other 3 perform very similar while some being cheaper than the other to fab. Hope this helps break down the much info out there on the different long arms setups for your jeep.
 
marty79 said:
mostly to have true long arm lift, you can't use factory upper mounts for "long arms" they would be short
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That's actually how the early Teraflex long arm kits work, and what I've had on my Jeep for 17 years. There are some design issues with long lowers and short uppers, but overall it works fine.

marty79 said:
Radius arms work very well and so does the Y link
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That's because they are functionally the same, they just look different.

marty79 said:
Bushings will ride smoother on street but don't give/flex as much.
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Bushings give and flex more, but can be torn apart or have a decreased life if there is too much flex. The same is true of spherical rod ends that are improperly used in a poorly designed suspension.
 
3-link > radius arms
 
I have never run a 3 link, but I have a radius arm setup on my linked k30......My links are stout, bushings at the axle, heims at the frame/arm. I have never experienced the dreadful things people say about radius arms(lack of flex, binding, unloading, hopping, etc..)....I have no regrets going radius arm. It is stupid simple and flat out works....I didnt have room for a 3rd link inside the frame, so yeh.
 
marty79 said:
Radius arms work very well and so does the Y link (Iron Rock Off Road style) especially if the one upper bushing on the pumpkin is a johnny joint style rather than bushing.
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You only want a johnny join on the axle side with a y link. With a radius arm setup, it needs bushings. It relys on the give in them to not bind up. Due to the arc of the lowers during articulation, one of the upper is trying to push forward and the other is trying to pull backward but they can't since they are locked to the loweres. The push and pull must be absorbed by the bushings.
Y link and radius arms are treated as the same thing because of the similarities of design, however, they function drastically different. A y link is much more flexible offroad but a radius setup is going to control the axle better in most cases onroad and has the added benefit of an extra arm as a safety measure. This could be a major liability factor for companies designing setups around stock mounting points. My 2 cents.
 
marty79 said:
no sticking with Hydro assist for now anyways. maybe later on
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true triangulated 4 link is not compatible with a panhsrd rod & box type steering linkage... Fully triangulated 4 link requires full hydro or DBW electric rack(not that I've seen that done, but would work) mounted on axle, as the panhard bar would cause binding of the tri-4-link in the suspension travel.
 
a_kelley said:
true triangulated 4 link is not compatible with a panhsrd rod & box type steering linkage... Fully triangulated 4 link requires full hydro or DBW electric rack(not that I've seen that done, but would work) mounted on axle, as the panhard bar would cause binding of the tri-4-link in the suspension travel.
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yes I was told this but I'm not doing triangulated 4 link in the front, just going with some good radius arms up front, triangulated the rear only
 
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