Long arms on a TJ

CasterTroy said:
Didn't mean to take over @BigClay but I know you well enough to know I wasn't stepping on toes doing so. But it really sounds like the best thing for both of us, would be to start hacking and find a way to stuff more, instead of going longer arms. Well I mean...until we find a pair of LJ frame/tub combos and send them over to PJ to long arm, ton, cage, and LS them :cool: Then we'll be waiting at the top watching Mosteller struggle to get up what we walked (damnit....I did NOT win that last powerball....N/M)
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I think you have the right mindset here. If it were me, I would try to set it up more like a buggy if I could. 18-20" belly height with flat skid, as long links as you can build at this with a ~100-105" wb. Work to get as much uptravel as you can.
 
I know it’s pricey but highlined fenders on stock control arms helps a lot on a TJ. Use every inch of uptravel you can to keep the axle from steering so bad at full droop. 1-1 1/2” body lift so you can tummy tuck it. And with the body lift it should give you enough room over top of the frame rail to keep your 25-30” control arms tucked up and out of harms way but maintaining good geometry. This is what I noticed wheeling with TJ/LJs in Cali that were setup by Blaine Johnson and the guys over at Savvy. Highlines are key to keeping a good balance of up and down travel which produces a much more stable rig.


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I'm at 1-1/4" body with brown dog motor mount lift and not a FLAT belly, but a Barnes 2" belly tucking the atlas as tight as possible

Haven't measured since 35's
 
CasterTroy said:
I'm at 1-1/4" body with brown dog motor mount lift and not a FLAT belly, but a Barnes 2" belly tucking the atlas as tight as possible

Haven't measured since 35's
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Tummy tucking a TJ/LJ to get rid of that shovel is one of the best mods you can do, sucks you’ve got to do a body lift to do it but that also allows you to move the fuel tank up which can be a rock magnet, depending on tire size and lift height, when crawling up a ledge. Even Blaine doesn’t make them completely flat, he just smoothes the transitions out. I’ve seen their “mid arm” kit in action on an LJ and it was the most capable jeep in our group and he was on 35” all terrains. I feel like that “mid arm” term was created on a marking gimmick because JKs were technically short arms but they are a good 6” longer than a TJ/LJ control arm.

I’ve installed one of those radius arm TJ lift kits from rough country and wasn’t impressed at all. And some food for thought anyone going with a store bought long arm kit, they still use a lot of factory mounts even the rear triangulated 4 link kits, like Rock Krawler offers, still uses the factory lower mounts out back. Move all that junk up even with the bottom of the axle tube, because we all know how them factory front control arm mounts fold over.

If you’re gonna change coils, keep in mind the free length and the style coil spring it is. Some claim dual rate but it’s just a dead coil, some are linear, some are triple rate and progressive. A lot of people don’t understand a coil that has no load on it regardless of the RTI ramp or CTI flex trailer score it has doesn’t mean crap if there isn’t weight supported on that tire. Like Shawn said, you’ve got the weight of the wheel, tire, and axle that’s providing traction when you haven’t matched your spring length to your shocks.
 
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