My new rig

High CFM isn't what you're after.
I tried to explain that multiple times but I've been unsuccessful it seems.

Croatan_Kid said:
I'm always a fan of an oil cooler, especially on an LS. They have terrible PCV systems and if oil ever starts to disappear, it's getting sucked in through there most likely. But I get it...you'd have to add a fan or place it so it got air flow from the radiator fan or it wouldn't do much good.

My truck will make some oil disappear from time to time. It lessened with the 160 degree thermostat. A catch can would keep it from going through the intake, but I bet an oil cooler would probably keep it from getting hot enough to vaporize to start with...at least, I'd like to think so.
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If you're running a stock PCV system on a trail rig, you're doing it wrong.

On a trail rig, I still don't see the point of an oil cooler. Can't hurt, but it's completely unnecessary.

Any consideration other than a trail rig shouldn't apply here since we're trying to help @77GreenMachine fixing his cooling issues and his Jeep is a trail rig.
 
Bebop said:
High CFM isn't what you're after.
I tried to explain that multiple times but I've been unsuccessful it seems.


If you're running a stock PCV system on a trail rig, you're doing it wrong.

On a trail rig, I still don't see the point of an oil cooler. Can't hurt, but it's completely unnecessary.

Any consideration other than a trail rig shouldn't apply here since we're trying to help @77GreenMachine fixing his cooling issues and his Jeep is a trail rig.
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Nah you made your point, and I understand and value your time/input. I have some time to sort this out so I will go with the Spal you recommended or the Volvo fan. Just depends on what I find or don’t find at the junkyard when I find the time to go lol.
 
77GreenMachine said:
Link?

I saw some in that price range but the reviews on Summit said they were junk. I have a trip coming up and I doubt I’ll change anything before then.
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Here's this I'm not good with phones lol.
Screenshot_20210719-173755_eBay.jpg
 
Junk yard score $30

Power is constant, high and low are ground trigger, typically done by temp sensors. However I’d like to run it low triggered by the key, high triggered by a toggle switch. Simple enough I reckon. Instead I can wire the low constant ground, run my current fan wiring to 30 on the diagram since it’s already fused, with an HD relay and will provide power and will come on at whatever temp I tell the EFI to, which will be 100* for now. And I’ll ground the high relay to a toggle

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That sounds like a complicated plan.

Wire the volvo fan source to battery with a fuse (or not, the fan isn't fused in the volvo cars).
Wire the low speed ground trigger to your EFI.
Wire the high speed ground trigger to the switch.

Removes a relay from the equation.

Also, I don't know what wiring you have in it now, but the volvo fan will draw a lot of amps at start up.
 
Bebop said:
That sounds like a complicated plan.

Wire the volvo fan source to battery with a fuse (or not, the fan isn't fused in the volvo cars).
Wire the low speed ground trigger to your EFI.
Wire the high speed ground trigger to the switch.

Removes a relay from the equation.

Also, I don't know what wiring you have in it now, but the volvo fan will draw a lot of amps at start up.
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I believe the fan trigger from my EFI is constant ground with positive switches but I will find out.
 
Bebop said:
Usually Fast EFI is ground trigger.
The last one I wired was like that at least.
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Excellent. That means I can use it to trigger high and low, no toggle needed
 
IDK how you're gonna trigger high and low with the ECU?
IIRC there is only 1 fan output.
 
Bebop said:
IDK how you're gonna trigger high and low with the ECU?
IIRC there is only 1 fan output.
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I have options in my setting for fan 1 and fan 2. Just gotta find the wire for #2
 
Bebop said:
IDK how you're gonna trigger high and low with the ECU?
IIRC there is only 1 fan output.
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This will be easier than I thought! Now my ECU will automatically control high and low.
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What Volvo are we looking for to acquire this fan?
 
ponykilr said:
What Volvo are we looking for to acquire this fan?
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Any of the mid to late 90s Volvos. Gotta have the relay and plugs too. Best to pull as much wire as possible since it’s already sized properly. The relay is ground switched and what controls high and low.
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77GreenMachine said:
Any of the mid to late 90s Volvos. Gotta have the relay and plugs too. Best to pull as much wire as possible since it’s already sized properly. The relay is ground switched and what controls high and low.
View attachment 352965
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And it’s being used without a shroud?
 
Jody Treadway said:
You make a shroud and bolt the fan to it
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no no no

You order a shroud from an online retailer that uses FedEx so they can lose the first one. Then you pay EXTRA for a second to ship..that ALSO never arrives.......

Then have @hurt4x4 make you one and you're very happy
 
CasterTroy said:
no no no

You order a shroud from an online retailer that uses FedEx so they can lose the first one. Then you pay EXTRA for a second to ship..that ALSO never arrives.......

Then have @hurt4x4 make you one and you're very happy
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This sounds vaguely familiar
 
ponykilr said:
And it’s being used without a shroud?
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No, that’s never a good idea. I already have a shroud with the 16” Spal fan. I may have to trim it a little and/or re-drill mounting holes but this fan will bolt to the custom aluminum shroud that @hurt4x4 did a fantastic job making for me.
 
77GreenMachine said:
Isn't that supposed to be used with water only? I was under the impression it’s not meant to be mixed with much, if any coolant or it’s wasted. I haven’t ruled it out.
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It simply breaks the surface tension of the liquid and makes it transfer heat better. It dropped my buggy idle temp 15* by the gauge without doing anything else (50/50 glycol) I dumped a bottle in my turbo car (no gauge) and the automatic cooling fans only run a minute or so now after shutdown v/s 5+ before (OET antifreeze/coolant). I ran it with straight water in my drag car without any corrosion, or foaming. The water stayed translucent with a slight pinkish tint. Never had any issues with overheating. It is not a miracle but for $10 a bottle its a cheap enough placebo.
 
Infamous1 said:
It simply breaks the surface tension of the liquid and makes it transfer heat better. It dropped my buggy idle temp 15* by the gauge without doing anything else (50/50 glycol) I dumped a bottle in my turbo car (no gauge) and the automatic cooling fans only run a minute or so now after shutdown v/s 5+ before (OET antifreeze/coolant). I ran it with straight water in my drag car without any corrosion, or foaming. The water stayed translucent with a slight pinkish tint. Never had any issues with overheating. It is not a miracle but for $10 a bottle its a cheap enough placebo.
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Ill give it a shot, cause why not?
 
marty79 said:
Here's this I'm not good with phones lol.
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just thought I'd give an update for what it's worth!! this fan so far is bad ass!! It pulls some freaking air, def gotta be pulling over 3K cfm. Just thought I'd share the product review so far!! that's all
 
marty79 said:
just thought I'd give an update for what it's worth!! this fan so far is bad ass!! It pulls some freaking air, def gotta be pulling over 3K cfm. Just thought I'd share the product review so far!! that's all
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3k CFM under what backpressure?
 
Fan CFM is expressed under a certain type of resistance. Just like an air compressor output is expressed under a certain pressure.
Saying a fan is 3k CFM without the back pressure info doesn't mean anything.

Also, the ebay description says the motor is 180W which is very small for a big 16" fan.
 
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