Pole barn kits

awheelterd said:
Honest question.

Then are the wetset kits not good? I would think that the pier with a wetset bracket should function the same as the the post in concrete.

I do not like the idea of putting wood in the ground at my house. Be it in concrete or gravel. Too many termites and too high of a water table. I have been planning to do a monolith slab with footers under the posts and utilizing wetset kits.
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I considered that method when I was building my shop, and I see no problem with it. You are transitioning the load from a solid body (the post), to a bolted and embedded connection, and maybe its not quite as strong, but worst case it will flex a little more so the sheeting/wall tin will just carry more load. And a couple 2x6's or 2x8's or cable tensioners at a 45 going post to post seem like enough to be sufficient. I have also done zero calculations to back up the arbitrary situation on a building of unknown size and construction, but I'm certain I would do it that way and still have a building standing in 30 years.
 
The rr trusses over about 18 or 20 ft do have a secondary crossbar that gets bolted in on the bottom to mitigate the cantilevering. I've done a lot of research myself on embedding posts in concrete vs other methods because I thought it was dumb too but the truth is it will outlast me by double so I don't worry about it, especially considering the strength it provides.
I don't mean to sound like a dick but a post embedded in washed stone sounds like one of the silliest methods I've heard yet, not only can you not get any compaction and your post has almost no pull out resistance but a post that is always submerged in water will last 100 years longer than a post in a constant cycle of oxygen and water.
 
braxton357 said:
I don't mean to sound like a dick but a post embedded in washed stone sounds like one of the silliest methods I've heard yet, not only can you not get any compaction and your post has almost no pull out resistance but a post that is always submerged in water will last 100 years longer than a post in a constant cycle of oxygen and water.
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Agreed 100%



When the inspector said #67 I pointed to a pile we had waiting to go below the slab and he nodded. Once he was gone we backfilled with the red clay that was bored from the hole (my site was all undisturbed cut)

I am 100% behind bedding plumbing piping with #67 but thought putting it around a post was nothing but a dry well (condensate dump to circumvent nuesense) in the making.
 
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braxton357 said:
I've done a lot of research myself on embedding posts in concrete vs other methods because I thought it was dumb too but the truth is it will outlast me by double so I don't worry about it, especially considering the strength it provides.
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This is the conclusion I came to as well. I considered a lot of stuff when I was building my shop, and read the unverified horror stories about post rotting after 5 years and whatever. But there's an awful lot of clothesline and swingsets and fences (and buildings) that have wooden posts set in concrete that have been in the ground for decades and are still going strong.
 
jeepinmatt said:
This is the conclusion I came to as well. I considered a lot of stuff when I was building my shop, and read the unverified horror stories about post rotting after 5 years and whatever. But there's an awful lot of clothesline and swingsets and fences (and buildings) that have wooden posts set in concrete that have been in the ground for decades and are still going strong.
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Aren't there also rubberized treatments for posts now also to deal with this problem?

This is 2022. If we can make sprays that make anything hydrophobic, 3d print ceramics, and single-gender Velcro, I fail to understand why rotting posts isn't a solved probl
 
RatLabGuy said:
Aren't there also rubberized treatments for posts now also to deal with this problem?

This is 2022. If we can make sprays that make anything hydrophobic, 3d print ceramics, and single-gender Velcro, I fail to understand why rotting posts isn't a solved probl
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Cost and epa are the two deciding factors. Do you want your building to last at least 80 years and cost 30k or 180 years but cost 10k more...
 
braxton357 said:
Cost and epa are the two deciding factors. Do you want your building to last at least 80 years and cost 30k or 180 years but cost 10k more...
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Id reduce it to just EPA.
I mean shit we could soak them in tar and creosote and call it good.
 
ghost said:
I have been looking into the Perma Column system.

permacolumn.com

Precast concrete columns for permanent post-frame foundations

Patented and ICC-ES-certified, Perma-Column® precast concrete columns elevate wood out of the ground, eliminating rot and extending foundation life.
permacolumn.com permacolumn.com

permacolumn.com

How to install the Perma-Column® foundation system

Perma-Column® precast concrete solutions and anchor brackets install quickly using builders’ existing construction methods and equipment.
permacolumn.com permacolumn.com
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For your area specific you need to check on IBC Seismic registration
 
Ron said:
For your area specific you need to check on IBC Seismic registration
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I had to google that but suspected it was in reference to the ground shaking we have had an abundance of this year....
 
braxton357 said:
Cost and epa are the two deciding factors. Do you want your building to last at least 80 years and cost 30k or 180 years but cost 10k more...
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Not sure I buy that though. Look at the coatings put on basement/foundation walls. Thats for water penetration, but the principle is the same. Cost and EPA clearly not a barrier.
Ron said:
Id reduce it to just EPA.
I mean shit we could soak them in tar and creosote and call it good.
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Only issue there is that the tar would probably not mix well with the cement since it never really "cures". But yes, cheap options exist.
 
RatLabGuy said:
Aren't there also rubberized treatments for posts now also to deal with this problem?

This is 2022. If we can make sprays that make anything hydrophobic, 3d print ceramics, and single-gender Velcro, I fail to understand why rotting posts isn't a solved probl
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Typically treated posts are MCA or CAC treated. We frequently order CCA (old school PT) or even salt water rated treated posts for folks building their own structures like this.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Typically treated posts are MCA or CAC treated. We frequently order CCA (old school PT) or even salt water rated treated posts for folks building their own structures like this.
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In all 3 copper is your water penetrant, anti biocide and rot preventative. The main difference is in what is being used as an insecticide. CCA uses old school unbound arsenic. As a result it prevents termite infestation for much longer .

But for ground rot..I don’t think there is enough difference to even clarify.

Coal tar creosote is clearly better than either at decay preservation but…your shop would never get the smell out
 
braxton357 said:
not only can you not get any compaction and your post has almost no pull out resistance
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Well, sometimes it be like that 😅


Also, these exist and I plan to use them if I ever get around to building something before I start drawing retirement checks.

They're pretty cheap and ribbed for maximum, long lasting, satisfaction!

Post Frame

www.postprotector.com www.postprotector.com

I'll probably put them on the 4x4s of the mext porch I build...or anything that involves a post in the ground. Lots of ground water down here, plus it should keep the weedeater from rounding off the corners of the post. I hate that!
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Well, sometimes it be like that 😅


Also, these exist and I plan to use them if I ever get around to building something before I start drawing retirement checks.

They're pretty cheap and ribbed for maximum, long lasting, satisfaction!

Post Frame

www.postprotector.com www.postprotector.com

I'll probably put them on the 4x4s of the mext porch I build...or anything that involves a post in the ground. Lots of ground water down here, plus it should keep the weedeater from rounding off the corners of the post. I hate that!
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I actually worry about these.
Water will get in either by running down the top or intruding through the lag hole, then you have water trapped against the post and surrounded by an impermeable barrier and cant just perc away.


(Yes I have been researching the hell out of pole frame construction for the lats 90 days)
 
Ron said:
I actually worry about these.
Water will get in either by running down the top or intruding through the lag hole, then you have water trapped against the post and surrounded by an impermeable barrier and cant just perc away.


(Yes I have been researching the hell out of pole frame construction for the lats 90 days)
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So use them to protect the post but drill the bottoms for drainage. From everything I have heard/ read is that post suffer the worst rot at ground level and down the first 12”-18” where 99% of insects are. But this is just my uneducated perspective.
 
skyhighZJ said:
So use them to protect the post but drill the bottoms for drainage. From everything I have heard/ read is that post suffer the worst rot at ground level and down the first 12”-18” where 99% of insects are. But this is just my uneducated perspective.
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If you watch the video on their website, they have weep holes in the bottom for water to drain out.

Science Behind Post Rot & Decay | Post Protector
 
Like most things, if you research it on the internet, everything is wrong, and nothing will ever work. But that doesn't make it true.
 
skyhighZJ said:
So use them to protect the post but drill the bottoms for drainage. From everything I have heard/ read is that post suffer the worst rot at ground level and down the first 12”-18” where 99% of insects are. But this is just my uneducated perspective.
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They are designed for the post to rest on a concrete base
 
Well, I know that whatever goes in the ground down here is going to get wet. Sorta jealous that people in more western areas have basements. That'd be an in-ground swimming pool where I'm at :D

They'd definitely still help me and it'll last longer than I will...plus I can concrete them in the ground. You could also seal up the tops with your choice of goo, I'd imagine. In my case, they'd be inside of a building. I'd probably try to seal up exposed ones on a porch or something like that.
 
Great news - we officially passed inspection this morning!!!!!

We were able to get a stamped engineering print last week. Don't quote me because I haven't seen it, but IIRC it called for 8" concrete base (footing?) under the post + encasing 24" of the post in concrete. Of course, we already had the posts chilling in their holes 🙄 So, my dad called the inspector to discuss the options. We were assigned a new inspector who has been awesome to work with.

So, while we were letting the angry squirrels scream at Uwharrie on Saturday, my dad got to work welding up post stilt thingies. We threw those bad boys on the posts on Sunday (I'm still sore as hell from it) & now we're ready to rock 'n roll :rockon: Hopefully we'll have concrete Friday afternoon.
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untchabl said:
@jeepin' jen any updates on your pole barn build?
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Yes! We actually spent Thanksgiving setting the trusses & purlins in place. All the equipment rentals were booked solid but we lucked out & a friend of my dad's loaned us his bucket truck.
20221126_173508.jpg


We still need to get the metal roof on there but weather & time hasn't been on our side. My dad sent me a selfie last week while I was at work. He was impatient & wanted to put a "practice sheet" up there. I promptly requested that he get his old ass down since no one was home. 🤦‍♀️🙄
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So, that's where we sit currently. Not too shabby for a 3-person team. Depending on how the next 2 days look, we may try to knock out the roof.
 
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