I thought the same way and only did the uppers triangulated. Mainly because I thought it would be easier. For the time it took me to mess with link placement and trying to dial in the numbers to be "correct" I probably could have just built a crossmember that went around/under/over the driveshaft allowing me to triangulate the lowers more. If I had to do it over again I would run the lowers triangulated as well. I won't throw out a ton of technical terms because there are so many variables when building a link suspension, especially off of a factory frame. I vote for getting all of your brackets and joints, make some pvc links and just start tacking things in, measuring, putting the numbers into the calculator and giving it your best shot. A tape measure, patience and some beer is your friend in this case.