Purple YJ Build

paradisePWoffrd said:
Burgin's YJ was probly one of the lowest i can recall: 3XYJ Build…Tons/42s/SUA= LOW.

Running spring sliders vs shackles might help package something super low.

If you really want to get low, and dont mind body mods, channeling the tub is where its at. There is alot of wasted space under the seats of a CJ/YJ/TJ. You can channel the tub down over the frame, or shorten the cowl area to be able to lower the seats.
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I plan on making the seats sit as low as possible, cause I want to keep the top of the cage at least 4-6 inches lower than stock. I dont mind modifying the tub, as I'm cutting it up anyways to make a cab. Trying to fit a np435/205 combo is going to limit how much I can drop it though. I may clock the 205 some to help keep the belly flatter, but that will push it up under the driver seat.

For shackles I plan to hang them from the middle or top of the frame if that makes sense.
If I can make it fit, I actually want to move the front axle back an inch or 2. That way I can move the rear back even more without getting too long of a wheel base.
 
Do you know what wheelbase you're shooting for? I actually have my front axle slightly forward of stock position, maybe about an inch or so. I added approximately 17" to the frame length (18" tube sleeved into the frame rails recessed 1/2" on each end for a lap joint) and ended up with 114" total. With running the tire you plan on having, you might consider at least leaving it in the stock location so you don't have interference in the tub corners/firewall area. I don't think you'd have to worry too much about drivetrain length. But, if you move the front back some, then the back out a little farther, it'll be front heavy...especially since your drivetrain combo is all iron and compact. Be careful on the binders going downhill!

Unless, of course, you were planning on setting the engine back into the firewall some...then forget everything I just said. :D
 
Not too much progress, but I've been slowly chipping away at some things.

Never really built an entire rig, so I'm trying to figure out the order in which to do things.
This is what I'm thinking, but feel free to give your $0.02

1. Mock up drivetrain (motor, trans, t-case)
Cut tub and possibly clock the np205 to fit up tighter.
2. Mock up front axle/suspension and check clearances with drivetrain.
3. Burn in drivetrain mounts.
4. Cut tub rear off and cut rear of frame.
5. Complete the back half of the frame and link the rear. Truss 14bolt etc.
6. Disassemble tub/frame and repair any rust/paint frame.
7. Reassemble as a roller frame and begin engine tear down/painting of drivetrain and other parts.
8. Reassemble and wire it up.
9. cage work


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Cleaning up the front. Getting ready for cleaning up the frame.

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A little rust, but not bad for a Roanoke native Jeep.
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Disassembled front axle. Got slot of work to do on it.

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Not sure if I will need the wiring harness, but I'll save it just in case...

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I guess this means I need to spend some $ on a bellhousing for my GM 5.3 to Ford granny 4 speed set up.

Unless someone knows a different route where I can make my own kit from junkyard parts...

Looks like it's time to part out the bronco to get some cheddar.
:smokin:
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Loganwayne said:
@XJsavage I think he did a 4 speed to 5.3 don’t know if it was ford or chevy


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It was Ford, but he bought the Advanced Adapters kit I believe.
 
What’s the spline count for the transmission your going to use? I finally switched the 203s and you basically have to tear the 203 all the way down to change input shaft so if it’s different spline count it may not be worth it to you.


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Loganwayne said:
What’s the spline count for the transmission your going to use? I finally switched the 203s and you basically have to tear the 203 all the way down to change input shaft so if it’s different spline count it may not be worth it to you.


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Well, I may end up switching to a chevy transmission so it should be 32 spline.
The Ford I have is 31 spline IIRC.
I figure that it's cheaper to run a chevy trans, chevy 203, then buy the adapter for my Ford 205.
 
Van-go said:
Well, I may end up switching to a chevy transmission so it should be 32 spline.
The Ford I have is 31 spline IIRC.
I figure that it's cheaper to run a chevy trans, chevy 203, then buy the adapter for my Ford 205.
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Turbo 400 is 32 spline turbo 350 is 27.
I’ve got a 32 spline front half for you and possibly could find a 27 spine one again


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Loganwayne said:
Turbo 400 is 32 spline turbo 350 is 27.
I’ve got a 32 spline front half for you and possibly could find a 27 spine one again


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What about an SM 465?
 
Loganwayne said:
Google says 32 spline count


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That's what I thought.
I need to look into using the transmission with a 5.3.
I figured if I don't have to spend the money to get a special bell housing for a Ford transmission I can use that money to buy the adapter for a chevy 203/Ford 205 doubler.
 
Van-go said:
That's what I thought.
I need to look into using the transmission with a 5.3.
I figured if I don't have to spend the money to get a special bell housing for a Ford transmission I can use that money to buy the adapter for a chevy 203/Ford 205 doubler.
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I had to edit my post take another look it got a little bit more confusing


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Loganwayne said:
Google says 32, 35, and a 10 spline count was available. 35 was 2wd trucks and 10 spline was older and heavy duty applications. 84 up should all be 32 spline


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And if I have a granny 4 speed and a doubler I won't have to gear my axles, which are 4.10, which saves more $.
 
Between working out of town and wedding crap I've been able to finish off some liquor.
I also sold the Dana 60 from the bronco so I have grand to play with. Probably gonna buy some old 44's and some tubing for links.
Tore into my '79 kingpin and rearranged my shop.
Got the Detroit out of the bronco's axle and hid it away in the drawer for a later date.

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That McKenna is good stuff! Got turned on to it a couple years ago, can't beat it for the price.
 
Well I sold a few things in the last week and had some $ to play with.
Got all of this stuff for cheaaap.
Still have a good bit to play with.

I don't know anything about air shocks but for the price, I figured it was worth a shot. They will likely need to be rebuilt but the kits are like $40 each.

Links are .25 wall 7/8 heims which should at least work for my uppers. If they are too short/long I'll just cut them and sleeve them with a bigger tube.

I'm still looking for some good used 1.25" heims for the lowers.

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Tires are pretty old and may not be able to be used cause they are for a 15 inch wheel. Was told the swampers will hold air, but the boggers will definitely need tubes. They have cracks, they're hard, but have a lot of meat left.

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The 2x3 tubing I got off here at a decent price. I'll use it for the rear of my frame when I stretch it.
Also bought some 7/8" heims from the same member. Supposed to be new/gently used and he sold them to me at 50% retail.
I don't really need all of them now that I bought links, but that's alright, I'm sure I'll use them eventually.
I'll use 4 of them for steering.
 
Van-go said:
Well I sold a few things in the last week and had some $ to play with.
Got all of this stuff for cheaaap.
Still have a good bit to play with.

I don't know anything about air shocks but for the price, I figured it was worth a shot. They will likely need to be rebuilt but the kits are like $40 each.

Links are .25 wall 7/8 heims which should at least work for my uppers. If they are too short/long I'll just cut them and sleeve them with a bigger tube.

I'm still looking for some good used 1.25" heims for the lowers.

View attachment 262733

Tires are pretty old and may not be able to be used cause they are for a 15 inch wheel. Was told the swampers will hold air, but the boggers will definitely need tubes. They have cracks, they're hard, but have a lot of meat left.

View attachment 262734
View attachment 262735 View attachment 262737
The 2x3 tubing I got off here at a decent price. I'll use it for the rear of my frame when I stretch it.
Also bought some 7/8" heims from the same member. Supposed to be new/gently used and he sold them to me at 50% retail.
I don't really need all of them now that I bought links, but that's alright, I'm sure I'll use them eventually.
I'll use 4 of them for steering.
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If you need 7/8 heims hmu I have a few brand new ones and will have a few lightly used ones too.
Coming along good man. I need to remember to come get that damn soft top. Lol.
 
XJfreakHO said:
If you need 7/8 heims hmu I have a few brand new ones and will have a few lightly used ones too.
Coming along good man. I need to remember to come get that damn soft top. Lol.
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I am a parts hoarder. lol
What do you want for them? Shoot me a text. And I was cleaning up the shop and set your top outside. Then it rained... sorry. I'll throw it in the carport so you can swing by and get it anytime
 
Mac5005 said:
Shoot for max oil volume minus 10cc when you rebuild, then just enough nitrogen to get the correct ride height.
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I'm still planning on staying leaf sprung up front, but for the rear, should I run the 2.0's or the 2.5's?


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Loganwayne said:
2.0s in the rear should be all you need
Are they 14 or 16s


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They are just 12's...that's not great, so I'm not so sure I want to use them.
 
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