Race Ghost

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Nope. Tried a nut too. Being very careful not to weld the wrong thing. Ready to give up. Going to get an air hammer from harbor freight. I noticed a big slot on the one I haven’t messed with yet. Is that for the air hammer?
 
$15 for an air hammer. $50 for the set of tools that included a hammer head. Best $75 bucks I’ve spent in a long time. I should have done this weeks ago.
 

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Ok so kind of at a dilemma. I was hoping to move the TNT track bar mount on the other side of the spring and get max length. Most I can get is 36" roughly. The drag link will be roughly 38" - 39". I moved the upper link next to the spring to clear the starter on compression. Biggest problem is the track bar mount stops turning right by about half. I've looked and don't seen anything that will fix it. I'm thinking I will try and trim it to get it closer to the truss and clear the tie rod. I thought about off set rod ends but could only do that on the drivers side. Not enough clearance on the passenger link to clear two offset rod ends I don't think. My main question is does the upper link on a 3 link need to be more centered? I guess I need to refresh my 3 link education and put some numbers in a calc.
 
ghost said:
Ok so kind of at a dilemma. I was hoping to move the TNT track bar mount on the other side of the spring and get max length. Most I can get is 36" roughly. The drag link will be roughly 38" - 39". I moved the upper link next to the spring to clear the starter on compression. Biggest problem is the track bar mount stops turning right by about half. I've looked and don't seen anything that will fix it. I'm thinking I will try and trim it to get it closer to the truss and clear the tie rod. I thought about off set rod ends but could only do that on the drivers side. Not enough clearance on the passenger link to clear two offset rod ends I don't think. My main question is does the upper link on a 3 link need to be more centered? I guess I need to refresh my 3 link education and put some numbers in a calc.
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The closer to the pinion for the upper mount, is typically best. The torque from the gears/drivetrain is alot of what it is controlling. The other part is torque coming from the wheels/brakes. The farther away from the point of load/torque, the more movement you will have since it is harder to control. It is all a tradeoff, since there is only 1 upper link.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
The closer to the pinion for the upper mount, is typically best. The torque from the gears/drivetrain is alot of what it is controlling. The other part is torque coming from the wheels/brakes. The farther away from the point of load/torque, the more movement you will have since it is harder to control. It is all a tradeoff, since there is only 1 upper link.
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I'll get a starter put in and see if it interferes like I think it will. So if I come to the side and not center it will be hit with more torque?
adamk said:
Why not move the tie rod down to the stock location and just run the drag link to the high steer?
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Pretty sure it will hit the diif cover on left and right turning with the tie rod hitting the HD diff cover. In my experience with my other jeep that location gets it hit often. That is how my steering is on ghost with D60's.
 
ghost said:
I'll get a starter put in and see if it interferes like I think it will. So if I come to the side and not center it will be hit with more torque?

Pretty sure it will hit the diif cover on left and right turning with the tie rod hitting the HD diff cover. In my experience with my other jeep that location gets it hit often. That is how my steering is on ghost with D60's.
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There wont be more torque, but there will be more play/twist in the axle. Any slop/play in the joint/bolt/mount will build in the available twist between the upper and where the torque is being applied. Think about a ratchet. If you hold it on the head, you can barely move it and it will click a new tooth; but if you hold it at the end of the handle, it might move inches between teeth.

Many 3 links have the upper moved to one side, so I dont think it will be a big issue. Like anything on the upper, make sure the mounts are beefy.
 
So one of the step sons needed struts on his Hyundai. Finished early then dove into the Jeep. Some how I messed up and the spring was arched. I determined I made the lower links too short. So I cut the tacks and made new ones.
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Ok so made some progress today. Built a drag link from old parts and a new bung and TRE. Ordered some misalignment spacers from Barnes to use some extra heims and the old steering to make a track bar. Made a new upper link and worked towards getting it in place. Installed a starter from a parts Jeep and realized the upper link will hit the unibody first.
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So got some free time this afternoon. The plan for adding a third link to the RE crossmember is to have it welded to the body and cage but bolt to the crossmember. Effectively putting it I’d double shear.
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I used one of the plates to orient where I needed to drill holes
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Bolted it down with three of the holes. Hopefully can incorporate the 4th.
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Then went and cut a hole in the floor in preparation for the frame side mount.
 
So thanks to the help in this thread...

nc4x4.com

Ford D44 Front help.

So the front 44 I’ve been working on for the race Jeep isn’t going back together right. I installed new ball joints on both sides and added a trail knuckle to the passenger side. The shaft on the passenger side sets further in than the one on the driver side. I pulled the center today...
nc4x4.com nc4x4.com

We have rotors in place.

My son and his best friend came up and ground on the beadlocks @XJsavage welded up for me. If all goes well we might have this thing sitting on 4 tires soon. Honestly will probably be after Christmas but that is soon in this build....
 
Did some work on the race Jeep today. I didn’t like how the valve stems were blocked so I got a couple angled ones to see how they’d work. I like it. However you can hear the air coming out the weld on bead-locks. I torqued to 10 then 15 ftlb in a star pattern. What do you guys torque your bead-locks too?

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ghost said:
Did some work on the race Jeep today. I didn’t like how the valve stems were blocked so I got a couple angled ones to see how they’d work. I like it. However you can hear the air coming out the weld on bead-locks. I torqued to 10 then 15 ftlb in a star pattern. What do you guys torque your bead-locks too?
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Without anti coning rings they just keep pulling. Good paste while assembling helps. Heavy dish detergent is a good substitute. Slime is only gonna work if you can run it some and distribute it well. I just picked a foot pound that didn't start pulling my rings real bad and kept at till the spec was universal around the whole ring. I Used gracious amount of Dawn and let them be after partially airing them up. Must have done something cause the tires are gonna dry rot before they all leak down setting in my storage.....uuugghhaa.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Without anti coning rings they just keep pulling. Good paste while assembling helps. Heavy dish detergent is a good substitute. Slime is only gonna work if you can run it some and distribute it well. I just picked a foot pound that didn't start pulling my rings real bad and kept at till the spec was universal around the whole ring. I Used gracious amount of Dawn and let them be after partially airing them up. Must have done something cause the tires are gonna dry rot before they all leak down setting in my storage.....uuugghhaa.
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They have anti coning rings. Welded them to the rim. should there be one welded to the outer plate? The Super Swamper has a really thick bead.
 
ghost said:
They have anti coning rings. Welded them to the rim. should there be one welded to the outer plate? The Super Swamper has a really thick bead.
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welp, i missed the obvious. Tighten til they touch them? never ran them, but should.
 
ghost said:
Tire slime on the beadlock? Or put it in the tire and let it find the leaks?
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In the tire and it WILL find the leaks.
 
So I made some mor progress. It’s got a squat issue. Need a 3” or 4” front spring. Anyone got a set of each laying around I can borrow for measurements. Or buy?
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