Reptar Build

And since yours is a 6spd, I highly suggest going with 5.38s especially if you plan on running 40s. Few builds I've helped guys one ended up regearing because the shop they took it to first suggested 4.88s with 37s. Even just on 37s 5.38s made a difference when crawling. Hell
One was even a rubicon with the 4:1 case and he loved the 5.38s.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
And since yours is a 6spd, I highly suggest going with 5.38s especially if you plan on running 40s. Few builds I've helped guys one ended up regearing because the shop they took it to first suggested 4.88s with 37s. Even just on 37s 5.38s made a difference when crawling. Hell
One was even a rubicon with the 4:1 case and he loved the 5.38s.
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I'm not going with 5.38s. I'll either go with 4.88 or 5.13s. If I had an auto I would go with 5.38s but everyone I've ever talked to with 40s and a stick says that 5.13s are perfect and the ones with 5.38s say its too low and don't like it. I might go with 4.88s since I plan on being on 37s for a while. I know a guy that has 4.88s on 40s and says its fine going down the road and crawling, but he does have a Rubicon so the tcase is lower, but I wouldn't think 4.88s would be too bad for 40s if I do end up going to them
 
JWebbie2 said:
I'm not going with 5.38s. I'll either go with 4.88 or 5.13s. If I had an auto I would go with 5.38s but everyone I've ever talked to with 40s and a stick says that 5.13s are perfect and the ones with 5.38s say its too low and don't like it. I might go with 4.88s since I plan on being on 37s for a while. I know a guy that has 4.88s on 40s and says its fine going down the road and crawling, but he does have a Rubicon so the tcase is lower, but I wouldn't think 4.88s would be too bad for 40s if I do end up going to them
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You're looking at a 200 RPM difference at cruising speed between 5.13s and 5.38s (seriously look at the charts), and with a stick you've got multiple gears to choose from when in low range. You're adding at least 15-20 lbs per tire going to 40s and 4.88s just don't give the mechanical advantage. Last guy I regeared his 2015 4 door 6spd rubi on 37s to 5.38s from 4.88s and he thanked me a million times. Even wheeled with him after that and he rarely stalled, with 4.88s he was stalling on technical stuff constantly and it frustrated the hell out of him. His first rig was a 06 TJ rubicon with 33s and 4.10s, he was use to that driving style and 4.88s and 37s just couldn't it it for him. Another one I regeared was a '15 Willys running 4.88s with 35s. Hell in mud I'm in 3rd or 4th gear 4wd low but technical stuff I do 1st gear and 4wd low. With an auto you can get away with a little less gear because of the torque converter when crawling. You won't be over-geared with 5.38s ,40s ,and your 2.72:1 t-case is what I'm trying to say. Even with stock 4.10s and 37s I'm over geared if you compare our crawl ratios kinda thing.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
You're looking at a 200 RPM difference at cruising speed between 5.13s and 5.38s (seriously look at the charts), and with a stick you've got multiple gears to choose from when in low range. You're adding at least 15-20 lbs per tire going to 40s and 4.88s just don't give the mechanical advantage. Last guy I regeared his 2015 4 door 6spd rubi on 37s to 5.38s from 4.88s and he thanked me a million times. Even wheeled with him after that and he rarely stalled, with 4.88s he was stalling on technical stuff constantly and it frustrated the hell out of him. His first rig was a 06 TJ rubicon with 33s and 4.10s, he was use to that driving style and 4.88s and 37s just couldn't it it for him. Another one I regeared was a '15 Willys running 4.88s with 35s. Hell in mud I'm in 3rd or 4th gear 4wd low but technical stuff I do 1st gear and 4wd low. With an auto you can get away with a little less gear because of the torque converter when crawling. You won't be over-geared with 5.38s ,40s ,and your 2.72:1 t-case is what I'm trying to say. Even with stock 4.10s and 37s I'm over geared if you compare our crawl ratios kinda thing.
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Shit I stall like crazy right now with my 3.73s on 37s lol. But more than likely I'll go 5.13s. I have a fee buddies that have 4.88 on 37s and have no complaints. I do have one buddy with 4.88 on 35s and he says its way to low for him, but I guess it jjust depends on driving styles and stuff? But I haven't ordered any gears or even found my axles yet, so I still have some time to think it all over lol
 
Since JKs are very popular just drive ones with the tire size and gears you want to try out. Since you're in hills you won't notice a 5.38 like you will notice a 4.88. That makes a big difference and will keep you from down shifting sometimes.

My jeep when factory doing 70 on the highway I was turning right at 2800-2900 rpm, that scares people. Hell 4.10s and those stock 32s is a great feeling not down shifting on hill or anything like that. These motors still get great fuel economy at 3000rpm so most are just scared of the RPM for no reason.

4.10s and 37s suck... I'm going 5.38s because I've driven a few with 5.13s and 5.38s on 37s and its great not getting a leg workout from feathering the clutch while crawling.
 
After finally getting all the parts in, I got a buddy of mine to put the lift on for me since I don't have all the garage space needed lol.
Here's some before and after flex pictures.

Before
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And after
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So I had hit a deer and ended up with a small hole in my grille. So I bought a replacement and put my own touch on it.
You can see the hole there on the left.
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Here's the new grille still in the wrapper.
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It was so easy taking the grille off. There's only like 5 weird screws you have to take off and the grille pops off.
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And the new one installed.
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Here's what she looks like with the 37s on her.
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As of right now, I don't have a spare. So if anyone has a 37/12.50/17 for sale that I could use for a spare, let me know. It can be a 13.50 too, I'm not picky lol
 
I'm running 2 and with my 35 inch mtrs yesterday mine rubbed when flexed all the way
 
JWebbie2 said:
I actually don't rub with my 37s, which I'm pretty surprised about lol
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JWebbie2, Are you running wheel spacers with the factory Rubicon wheels and 37s? I'm helping my brother do a similar setup with 37s on stock JK wheels, 3" springs and trimmed flares and I was curious as we haven't done the lift or tire install yet.
 
95yjjeep said:
JWebbie2, Are you running wheel spacers with the factory Rubicon wheels and 37s? I'm helping my brother do a similar setup with 37s on stock JK wheels, 3" springs and trimmed flares and I was curious as we haven't done the lift or tire install yet.
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Yea I'm running 1.5" spacers. The front rubs the lower control arms just a little bit when I'm turned hard with it flexed. You'll have to trim the rear pinch seams or you'll scrub the tires bad. I'll probably end up posting some pics of mine later. I can help you guys out if you need some guidance
 
Ordered a few parts the other day. I had a rear shock leaking, so I called up Bilstein and they told me to order a new shock and send in the old one. They will inspect the old and see if it was defaulted from the factory since it hasn't been on my Jeep for too long, and if it was default from the factory, they will refund me the money for the new one. I also ordered the Poison Spyder tramp stamp for the rear since I don't run a spare tire and I'm tired of looking at the stock carrier.

Parts came in!
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Since the weather was so nice today, I decided to put my new Jeep parts on.
Here's what it looked like before.
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First thing I needed to do was pull off the CB antenna mount and sit it aside. So for now, I have no CB radio lol. I'll try and fix that later.
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Next I needed to get the bolts off from the back of the third brake light. There's a connector near the top of the brake light that I needed to undo so that when I take the tire carrier off, it doesn't just dangle there behind my Jeep and damage some shit. After that I just unscrewed the 8 bolts that hold the carrier to the tail gate and the carrier came right off. As you can tell, it was a little dirty.
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Anyone need a stock JK tire carrier? lol
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The install for this thing is super easy. You just reuse the stock bolts and boom, its on. Plus it just looks 10x better than the empty stock carrier.
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The most bad ass part about the kit is that Poison Spyder also sends these little plastic hole grommets to cover up the holes from the 2 tire isolaters and 3rd brake light wire hole. I didn't even know these came with it. But it definitely makes it look better!!!
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Picked up some big boy parts today. Had to hook up the trailer so I could get them home. Good thing I had a 5" drop hitch for the trailer. Not gonna show you guys what I got just yet, anybody got any guesses to what I might have just picked up today?
 
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